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2011 Outlander Sport - Dyno Sheet!

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Old Dec 30, 2013 | 03:10 PM
  #46  
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Lightbulb Updates!

I'll be scheduling a dyno session over the next 2 weeks for my 2011 Outlander Sport to test the following since last time:


•RRM Aluminum Crank Pully
•RRM Headers
•Evo X 60mm Throttlebody
•Modified Intake Manifold entry (removed emissions tube)
•Blox Racing 3" inlet Air Filter with integrated Velocity Stack
•2.75" intake piping/MAF with ECU MAF calibration
•Evo X Camshafts


Cams even without tuning are producing more power above 4500 but I can tell the AFR's need some cleaning up and I know I can tweak the MIVEC for power.

I also plan on comparing the stock axel back & Muffler section attached versus removing the rear section to see if the 1.5-1.75" diameter crimp bent piping is hurting power significantly. If there is power to be had I may have STM build a new lightweight exhaust/muffler as well with mandrel bent 2.25" or 2.5" diameter piping.

You can blame the racing season in the Evolution X with NARRA on delays with mods on the Outlander Sport but I finally will be able to get this dialed in.

Stay tuned!

Last edited by Hiboost; Dec 30, 2013 at 03:27 PM.
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Old Apr 14, 2014 | 10:23 AM
  #47  
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any updates on the dyno numbers?
I was looking at the throttle bodies, and was wondering if you would recommend I use the Lancer Ralli Art Throttle body over the EVOX if it is going to be a daily driver? I was reading the Ralli Art is a direct plug and play throttle body for the O.S., but more over I was wondering what the cams gains did for ya...
thanks again for all the info!
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Old Jun 17, 2014 | 07:45 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by Hiboost
I'll be scheduling a dyno session over the next 2 weeks for my 2011 Outlander Sport to test the following since last time:


•RRM Aluminum Crank Pully
•RRM Headers
•Evo X 60mm Throttlebody
•Modified Intake Manifold entry (removed emissions tube)
•Blox Racing 3" inlet Air Filter with integrated Velocity Stack
•2.75" intake piping/MAF with ECU MAF calibration
•Evo X Camshafts


Cams even without tuning are producing more power above 4500 but I can tell the AFR's need some cleaning up and I know I can tweak the MIVEC for power.

I also plan on comparing the stock axel back & Muffler section attached versus removing the rear section to see if the 1.5-1.75" diameter crimp bent piping is hurting power significantly. If there is power to be had I may have STM build a new lightweight exhaust/muffler as well with mandrel bent 2.25" or 2.5" diameter piping.

You can blame the racing season in the Evolution X with NARRA on delays with mods on the Outlander Sport but I finally will be able to get this dialed in.

Stay tuned!
Hi its really interesting
Btw
What is the spec of evo x camshaft ? 268 or 272 ?
How is the idle ? Rough or smooth?

Why dont you put turbo on it , and get more power?
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Old Jun 20, 2014 | 05:55 AM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by TEXAS TRAVISTY
any updates on the dyno numbers?
I was looking at the throttle bodies, and was wondering if you would recommend I use the Lancer Ralli Art Throttle body over the EVOX if it is going to be a daily driver? I was reading the Ralli Art is a direct plug and play throttle body for the O.S., but more over I was wondering what the cams gains did for ya...
thanks again for all the info!
I've got a bit of a break with Time Attack events so hoping to sneak the Outlander Sport on the dyno soon. As far as Throttle body to use if the Ralliart is the same diameter as the Evo X then just go with that.

I'll have to play with the MIVEC on the cams, stock Evo X cam specs aren't that aggressive but they are an upgrade for airflow over the stock OS cams. You do lose a bit in the 2000-3500 rpm range but I think I can gain some back with tuning. the car kicks in very strong at 4000-4500 and again at 5500-6000 so if I can get it to pull smooth through the entire rpm range it would make a huge difference I'm sure.
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Old Jun 20, 2014 | 06:04 AM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by Evo 9 JDM
Hi its really interesting
Btw
What is the spec of evo x camshaft ? 268 or 272 ?
How is the idle ? Rough or smooth?

Why dont you put turbo on it , and get more power?
Idle is just like stock honestly because the stock evo x cam specs are moderate compared to any aftermarket cams. I'll have an extra set for sale that I'll post in the Evo X 4 sale area later today.

Stock Evo X cam specs:
Advance Intake/Exhaust: 252* / 224*
Duration @ 1mm Intake/Exhaust: 212* / 184*
Lift Intake/Exhaust: 9.7 / 8.58 mm

As for turbocharging it would be possible and even 6-8 psi would get you to 230-250 crank HP range pretty quickly. You would need to do a bit of custom work though on the fuel, intake and exhaust which goes out of my criteria for keeping the car as a reliable daily driver while I play with the Evo.
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Old Jun 20, 2014 | 06:19 AM
  #51  
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how much you asking for the cams?
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Old Jun 20, 2014 | 06:20 AM
  #52  
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and do you have any tuning maps, codes, or tips that would be helpful so I does not run like crap with all the mods?
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Old Jul 15, 2014 | 07:19 AM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by Hiboost
Right now the car has improved from ~ 9.0 second 0-60 times to around 7.9 second 0-60 times according to EvoScan data logs before and after all the changes. Based on the dyno numbers and power:weight ratios that should put the engine at 175-180 crank HP compared to the 148 crank HP stock output. For sure the CVT is consuming quite a bit but there is not much that can be done. I would like to get the car to around 200 crank HP where it should yield around 7.0 sec 0-60 times beating out most Crossover SUV's in it's class. While not mind bending, it would be about the same speed as a 1995-1999 Eclipse GSX from the factory.

What I've done so far:
  • K&N Panel Airfilter (same part # that fits the Evo X airbox)
  • 4" cold air intake tubing (leading to stock airbox)
  • RRM Aluminum Crank Pully (saves 3.5 lbs off rotating mass)
  • RRM Exhaust Headers (shifted powerband higher but 4000-6000 is quite a bit stronger)
Possible future upgrades:
  • Larger Throttlebody (60-65mm diameter)
  • Larger Diameter TB to Airbox piping (2.5"-2.75" will work, need to adjust tune for sure)
  • Higher Flow Exhaust (increase flow throughout system but making sure backpressure is still enough to prevent loss of torque, tune for scavenging effect)
  • High Flow Cat (I intend on testing if detaching the exhaust at various points shows where too little backpressure is counterproductive)
  • Fuel Injectors (not sure of stock capacity, but Evo X injectors are readily available and would be plenty)
  • Fuel Pump (not sure of stock capacity, will have to see if rewire is enough or if a higher flow unit from another model car could be swapped in)
  • Cams (Not sure if 4b12 or 4b11t cams are worth testing or if there are any more aggressive NA cams suitable)
  • Ported Head (May make sense if head is pulled for cams, otherwise cost is high per HP gained)
Weight Loss items:
  • Spare Tire/tools (This removes about 50 lbs)
  • Lightweight Battery (This can save 25 lbs, won't work with high powered stereos)
  • Lightweight Wheels (Stock are 25 lbs each, can save 5 lbs rotating mass per corner with 20 lbs wheels)
  • Lightweight Hood (Stock hood is very heavy, Carbon Fiber hood may shed 30-40 lbs)
  • Aluminum Driveshaft (Drops ~15 lbs from rotating assembly, might not matter in 2WD or 4WD auto mode, costs are high as well)
As modding goes, costs are now going to increase to get more Horsepower out of a Normally aspirated setup and I need to keep this as daily driver friendly as possible. I think the basics that I've done so far were well worth the effort though.

RRM has already shown that you can reach the 250-300 crank HP level with a turbo kit on the 5 speed model, but the CVT is what is holding back the Outlander Sport SE. Still the 4wd is really nice on this car for slippery roads and until they come up with a way to upgrade it's capacity we are stuck with it's limitations. We will see how far I can get this car without a turbo and keeping costs reasonable for the amount of real world gains. The real solution is that Mitsubish releases a Ralliart version of the Outlander Sport with 4wd or AWD!
Cvt eats too much power? Should have had a manual. The manual cuts like 2 seconds off the 0-60 compared to the cvt awd.
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Old Jul 15, 2014 | 07:36 AM
  #54  
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CVTs....
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Old Jul 15, 2014 | 11:42 AM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by Side-Swipe
Cvt eats too much power? Should have had a manual. The manual cuts like 2 seconds off the 0-60 compared to the cvt awd.
As a fellow Chicagoan, have you ever had 4WD/AWD in the snow?! It's sooooo much nicer to drive (albeit the OS does do pretty well in FWD mode in the snow).

If they had a manual AWD option, I would have seriously considered it (and probably turbo'ed it by now), as I traded in my '05 Audi A4 USP w/ 6-Speed for the OS. I definitely miss having a stick! (I still instinctively kick for the clutch when "emergency" braking )
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Old Jul 16, 2014 | 06:42 AM
  #56  
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ha I sold my Evo IX MR 6 speed so my wife could get a bigger SUV and I took her O.S. so I totally feel you on the kicking the clutch and wanting a stick at times but I do get a little satisfaction, albeit not totally, out of the paddle shifting.
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Old Jul 16, 2014 | 02:56 PM
  #57  
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I wonder if the trans/t case from the Outlander would work?
It's got the V6 "without" the CVT in it.

Hell,,,,, I wonder what a swap would entail for the whole drive train if you could find one wrecked.
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Old Jul 16, 2014 | 04:24 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by Krakker
I wonder if the trans/t case from the Outlander would work?
It's got the V6 "without" the CVT in it.

Hell,,,,, I wonder what a swap would entail for the whole drive train if you could find one wrecked.
Outlander wouldn't work I figure since we are lancer from the firewall up.
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Old Jul 16, 2014 | 05:07 PM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by Krakker
I wonder if the trans/t case from the Outlander would work?
It's got the V6 "without" the CVT in it.

Hell,,,,, I wonder what a swap would entail for the whole drive train if you could find one wrecked.
Possibly.

http://media.mitsubishicars.com/rele...b-18d74cab8999

5-speed Manual
A 5-speed manual gearbox that is based on the unit available with the original Outlander is the standard transmission for the ES model Outlander Sport (the INVECS-III CVT Sportronic continuously-variable transmission is also available).

Sliding smoothly and seamlessly through each gate thanks to the adoption of triple synchros for not only first but second gear as well and the addition of a slide bearing for reduced shaft friction when shifting, Mitsubishi's 5-speed manual transmission not only makes shifting a breeze but also a delight. What's more, the engineers have selected gear ratios for this manual gearbox that strike an excellent balance between dynamic performance and fuel efficiency - the first and final gear ratios found in the Outlander Sport's manual have been changed from the original Outlander's set of cogs to help reduce fuel consumption. Both units weigh the same at just under 102 lbs.

INVECS-III CVT Sportronic Transmission
Mitsubishi is constantly researching and developing new automotive technologies and advancements that reduce fuel consumption and emissions. But the company has not forgotten about its enthusiast customer base that considers driving ease and enjoyment a priority when considering important characteristics that should be included with their next car purchase.

[...]

Based on the continuously variable transmission equipped in the original Outlander, among the improvements on the redesigned unit found on the all-new Outlander Sport are unique ratio patterns for improved fuel efficiency and optimized oil pressure control for reduced friction within the system.

[..]


http://media.mitsubishicars.com/rele...5-613b4cab8321

Available On-Demand Electronically-Controlled 4WD System
A sophisticated electronically-controlled 4WD system is also available for the SE version of the Outlander Sport that greatly enhances both on-and off-road traction in good or bad weather conditions.

[...]

Unlike Mitsubishi's remarkable Super All-Wheel Control (S-AWC) 4WD system found in the company's famed Lancer Evolution model that utilizes such exotic technology as active differentials and active yaw control for extreme high performance, the on-demand electronically-controlled 4WD found on the new Outlander Sport emphasizes fuel efficiency while giving the driver the option to switch to traction-enhancing all-wheel drive at their discretion.

Borrowed from the larger Outlander SUV, the 4WD system consists of a rear differential carrier, and electronically controlled coupling (ECC) connected to the forward section of the rear differential and a power transfer unit (PTU) mated to the transmission near the front axle. These components have been designed to be exceptionally lightweight yet sturdy for the rugged terrain and conditions that the vehicle may encounter. And thanks to a low viscosity oil used in the power transfer unit (PTU), this helps to improve fuel economy by 0.1 percent compared to the Outlander.

A major design upgrade over the Outlander's 4WD system has been a recalibration of the systems control unit that has led to a variety of improvements including enhanced fuel economy, stability in 4WD mode, improved traction and steering feel when accelerating from a standstill, and an overall reduction in noise, vibration and harshness (NVH).

The system has three shift-on-the-flying settings:

2WD Setting most likely to be used for normal everyday driving; allows the Outlander Sport to operate as a front-wheel drive vehicle.

4WD Delivers power to all four wheels for improved traction and safety in slippery driving conditions

LOCK Like the 4WD setting, it routes power to all four wheels but it distributes 60 percent of the available power to the rear wheels for sportier handling.

Also, a lot more drivetrain info here:
http://www.awdwiki.com/en/mitsubishi...er_Sport__RVR_

and some more here: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ou...stem-info.html
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Old Jul 17, 2014 | 08:34 AM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by Burtonrider1002
As a fellow Chicagoan, have you ever had 4WD/AWD in the snow?! It's sooooo much nicer to drive (albeit the OS does do pretty well in FWD mode in the snow).

If they had a manual AWD option, I would have seriously considered it (and probably turbo'ed it by now), as I traded in my '05 Audi A4 USP w/ 6-Speed for the OS. I definitely miss having a stick! (I still instinctively kick for the clutch when "emergency" braking )
Yeah my buddy has a celica alltrac. We hood very hard. But I had no issues in a 2500lb corolla with bald tires. I worked as a delivery driver in every major snowfall we had this past winter. Snow tires are a great supplement for awd. Plus what's the max split on a OS AWC
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