2011 Outlander Sport - Dyno Sheet!
HiBoost - Would the Lancer CVT trans cooler be of any use? More so for you with your prospective mods than me
http://roadracemotorsports.com/store...roducts_id=343
http://roadracemotorsports.com/store...roducts_id=343
Thread Starter
Evolved Member
iTrader: (9)
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 3,222
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From: Rochester, NY
I really appreciate the extra help. Any retuning reequired with the headers instalation? Like due to any O2 sensors or anything? Also, how difficult was the install. Maybe headers and a pulley will keep me happy for now.
HiBoost - Would the Lancer CVT trans cooler be of any use? More so for you with your prospective mods than me
http://roadracemotorsports.com/store...roducts_id=343
http://roadracemotorsports.com/store...roducts_id=343
Thread Starter
Evolved Member
iTrader: (9)
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 3,222
Likes: 8
From: Rochester, NY
Yes any other kit would work fine, but they had both items and after reading the reviews their latest pulley design seemed fine. I know others in the past had complained about some causing potential seal damage from extra vibration but this engine seems to rev really well and there is absolutely no extra vibration that I can tell after install.
The front motor mount looks really similar to the one used on the Evo X, so I may swap it in and see how it feels at high revs since that would amplify any potential vibrations problems better and may also keep the engine from flopping around as much improving handling.
The front motor mount looks really similar to the one used on the Evo X, so I may swap it in and see how it feels at high revs since that would amplify any potential vibrations problems better and may also keep the engine from flopping around as much improving handling.
Right now the car has improved from ~ 9.0 second 0-60 times to around 7.9 second 0-60 times according to EvoScan data logs before and after all the changes. Based on the dyno numbers and power:weight ratios that should put the engine at 175-180 crank HP compared to the 148 crank HP stock output. For sure the CVT is consuming quite a bit but there is not much that can be done. I would like to get the car to around 200 crank HP where it should yield around 7.0 sec 0-60 times beating out most Crossover SUV's in it's class. While not mind bending, it would be about the same speed as a 1995-1999 Eclipse GSX from the factory.
What I've done so far:
RRM has already shown that you can reach the 250-300 crank HP level with a turbo kit on the 5 speed model, but the CVT is what is holding back the Outlander Sport SE. Still the 4wd is really nice on this car for slippery roads and until they come up with a way to upgrade it's capacity we are stuck with it's limitations. We will see how far I can get this car without a turbo and keeping costs reasonable for the amount of real world gains. The real solution is that Mitsubish releases a Ralliart version of the Outlander Sport with 4wd or AWD!
What I've done so far:
- K&N Panel Airfilter (same part # that fits the Evo X airbox)
- 4" cold air intake tubing (leading to stock airbox)
- RRM Aluminum Crank Pully (saves 3.5 lbs off rotating mass)
- RRM Exhaust Headers (shifted powerband higher but 4000-6000 is quite a bit stronger)
- Larger Throttlebody (60-65mm diameter)
- Larger Diameter TB to Airbox piping (2.5"-2.75" will work, need to adjust tune for sure)
- Higher Flow Exhaust (increase flow throughout system but making sure backpressure is still enough to prevent loss of torque, tune for scavenging effect)
- High Flow Cat (I intend on testing if detaching the exhaust at various points shows where too little backpressure is counterproductive)
- Fuel Injectors (not sure of stock capacity, but Evo X injectors are readily available and would be plenty)
- Fuel Pump (not sure of stock capacity, will have to see if rewire is enough or if a higher flow unit from another model car could be swapped in)
- Cams (Not sure if 4b12 or 4b11t cams are worth testing or if there are any more aggressive NA cams suitable)
- Ported Head (May make sense if head is pulled for cams, otherwise cost is high per HP gained)
- Spare Tire/tools (This removes about 50 lbs)
- Lightweight Battery (This can save 25 lbs, won't work with high powered stereos)
- Lightweight Wheels (Stock are 25 lbs each, can save 5 lbs rotating mass per corner with 20 lbs wheels)
- Lightweight Hood (Stock hood is very heavy, Carbon Fiber hood may shed 30-40 lbs)
- Aluminum Driveshaft (Drops ~15 lbs from rotating assembly, might not matter in 2WD or 4WD auto mode, costs are high as well)
RRM has already shown that you can reach the 250-300 crank HP level with a turbo kit on the 5 speed model, but the CVT is what is holding back the Outlander Sport SE. Still the 4wd is really nice on this car for slippery roads and until they come up with a way to upgrade it's capacity we are stuck with it's limitations. We will see how far I can get this car without a turbo and keeping costs reasonable for the amount of real world gains. The real solution is that Mitsubish releases a Ralliart version of the Outlander Sport with 4wd or AWD!
hey guys...first post here lol. i noticed that one of the above posts said that the rrm header and downpipe need modification because of the driveshaft location. what about the fwd applications? does this problem still exist?
nice write up i am jumping in the deep end myself so let me know how your build goes and i will be posting up more on mine as well.
thanks again for all the useful info.
have you found out if EvoScan will work on the 2011 model?
thanks again for all the useful info.
have you found out if EvoScan will work on the 2011 model?
Modding this vehicle is like modding a 1993 honda civic DX 1.5 liter, but I did it long time ago and loved it haha.
Keep up the good work guys
BTW i have a 2013 outlander sport fwd
Keep up the good work guys
BTW i have a 2013 outlander sport fwd
Yes any other kit would work fine, but they had both items and after reading the reviews their latest pulley design seemed fine. I know others in the past had complained about some causing potential seal damage from extra vibration but this engine seems to rev really well and there is absolutely no extra vibration that I can tell after install.
The front motor mount looks really similar to the one used on the Evo X, so I may swap it in and see how it feels at high revs since that would amplify any potential vibrations problems better and may also keep the engine from flopping around as much improving handling.
The front motor mount looks really similar to the one used on the Evo X, so I may swap it in and see how it feels at high revs since that would amplify any potential vibrations problems better and may also keep the engine from flopping around as much improving handling.



