HID Bulb change
HID Bulb change
Hello everyone newbie here...just swapped out my 2011 Outlander sport se for a 2013 in the same trim. I love my truck but am not happy with the color temp of the headlights. I feel my 2011 had a whiter and brighter output. So that being said can I change my current bulbs and if so what is the bulb type D2S Or D2R? Also how difficult a job will this be I'm a bit handy around an engine but no mechanic by any means.
HID bulbs can take up to 100 hours to fully "burn in" to their true colors. I highly recommend you give it some more time before blowing the cash.
But if you do change them, I will pay for shipping and throw you a few bucks for the stock bulbs instead of just tossing them.
OEM should be D2S. It's rare for manufacturers to use D2R. I'll double check shortly, though, and get back to you.
OEM HID bulb is D2R.
But if you do change them, I will pay for shipping and throw you a few bucks for the stock bulbs instead of just tossing them.
OEM should be D2S. It's rare for manufacturers to use D2R. I'll double check shortly, though, and get back to you.
OEM HID bulb is D2R.
Last edited by Burtonrider1002; Nov 3, 2013 at 01:02 AM.
I have a 2011 SE with the factory HID kit and I recently changed the bulbs in mine...they are D2R bulbs... Bulb swap went well been about 2 weeks and haven't experienced any problems... Factory bulb looked to be maybe 4500k... I put 6k in instead and it def makes a difference for night driving.
I have a 2011 SE with the factory HID kit and I recently changed the bulbs in mine...they are D2R bulbs... Bulb swap went well been about 2 weeks and haven't experienced any problems... Factory bulb looked to be maybe 4500k... I put 6k in instead and it def makes a difference for night driving.
D2R

D2S

Also, if you still have your OEM bulbs and don't want them, PM me, I'll paypal you the $$$ for shipping to 60612.
Here's a few excerpts from various threads/pages for you to read before buying new bulbs:
Originally Posted by 4300k vs 5000k in terms of lumen output
It depends on what you meam by "sacrificing too much light output?"
For one person 300-500 Lumens might be low loss, while for others too much. Generally speaking (based on Philips datasheets) and avg. 4100-4300K bulb (85122) can produce 3100-3400 Lumens, while a 4800K (85122CM) goes down to 2800 Lumens and 5800K (85122WX - Ultinon) goes down to 2400 Lumens. I can assure you that there is a noticeable difference in the output between these bulbs.
If you plan to go at 5000K try an OEM solution (like 85122CM or Osram Cold Blue etc.). You WILL LOSE Lumens, but still you will keep the major quality characteristics of the OEM bulbs. If you chose ANY a/m bulb higher than 4300K you'll be having a blue tinted output (even with 5000K bulbs), plus all the minuses from the lower quality of the bulb (compared to any OEM one). This is based on my personal experience.
IMO it's not worth sacrificing Lumens for Looks !... My 85122+s (after 30-40 hours of operation) have lost their original (extreme) yellowish tint (on the road) and have become (IMO) true (and very intense) white (with a bit of bluish tint - according to the road and the items they "hit" each time). Definatelly they're "blue" compared to standard halogen headlights.
The choice is yours...
Costas
For one person 300-500 Lumens might be low loss, while for others too much. Generally speaking (based on Philips datasheets) and avg. 4100-4300K bulb (85122) can produce 3100-3400 Lumens, while a 4800K (85122CM) goes down to 2800 Lumens and 5800K (85122WX - Ultinon) goes down to 2400 Lumens. I can assure you that there is a noticeable difference in the output between these bulbs.
If you plan to go at 5000K try an OEM solution (like 85122CM or Osram Cold Blue etc.). You WILL LOSE Lumens, but still you will keep the major quality characteristics of the OEM bulbs. If you chose ANY a/m bulb higher than 4300K you'll be having a blue tinted output (even with 5000K bulbs), plus all the minuses from the lower quality of the bulb (compared to any OEM one). This is based on my personal experience.
IMO it's not worth sacrificing Lumens for Looks !... My 85122+s (after 30-40 hours of operation) have lost their original (extreme) yellowish tint (on the road) and have become (IMO) true (and very intense) white (with a bit of bluish tint - according to the road and the items they "hit" each time). Definatelly they're "blue" compared to standard halogen headlights.
The choice is yours...
Costas
Originally Posted by Differences Between D2R & D2S Bulbs
Functional Differences
The "R" in D2R bulb types stands for "reflector," which means that the bulb is designed to be used in reflector-type headlights. Reflector headlights use a parabolic reflector to gather and focus the light, and use the black part of the bulb for control. The "S" in the D2S bulbs stands for "shielded," which means the bulb is designed for use in projector-type headlights. Projector headlights use a reflector to gather the light and a lens to focus and control it.
Base Differences
D2S and D2R bulbs are electrically similar and could be used interchangeably, but the bases of D2S and D2R bulbs have slightly different notches; as a result, the bulbs do not fit into the other's socket. A D2C bulb is available in the aftermarket that has notches to fit either the D2R or D2S bases and can be used for either bulb.
The "R" in D2R bulb types stands for "reflector," which means that the bulb is designed to be used in reflector-type headlights. Reflector headlights use a parabolic reflector to gather and focus the light, and use the black part of the bulb for control. The "S" in the D2S bulbs stands for "shielded," which means the bulb is designed for use in projector-type headlights. Projector headlights use a reflector to gather the light and a lens to focus and control it.
Base Differences
D2S and D2R bulbs are electrically similar and could be used interchangeably, but the bases of D2S and D2R bulbs have slightly different notches; as a result, the bulbs do not fit into the other's socket. A D2C bulb is available in the aftermarket that has notches to fit either the D2R or D2S bases and can be used for either bulb.
HID Newb Crash Course
To sum that up:
You can use D2S bulbs in a D2R housing if you modify them slightly by cutting a new notch, or buying D2C bulbs.
You will LOSE light output by going from OEM to 6000K. Just because your eye sees a whiter light, doesn't mean you're actually seeing more of the road.
These would be a pretty good brand if you still decide to change them:D2R: MORIMOTO 3FIVE (35W)
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I don't know if any of you have the factory HID kit but the bulb reflects out of the bottom of the projector housing into a reflector that illuminates the "pink" color lens right below the projector and that is a reflector hence why it's a D2R bulb.... Also the notches are slightly different between the D2S and D2R bulbs.... I've done retrofits and installed many kits I'm no expert just informing you guys that if you have a factory HID kit a bulb swap doesn't require a whole kit to be purchased just some replacement 35w bulbs as the factory kit is a 35w kit.... I wouldn't risk damaging the factory kit by putting 55w kit in.... That's just me tho.... Just hope the info helped...after work today Ill try to get some pics to post .... And some pics of the housing...
Last edited by Blackdub; May 28, 2013 at 04:43 AM.
I don't know if any of you have the factory HID kit but the bulb reflects out of the bottom of the projector housing into a reflector that illuminates the "pink" color lens right below the projector and that is a reflector hence why it's a D2R bulb.... Also the notches are slightly different between the D2S and D2R bulbs.... I've done retrofits and installed many kits I'm no expert just informing you guys that if you have a factory HID kit a bulb swap doesn't require a whole kit to be purchased just some replacement 35w bulbs as the factory kit is a 35w kit.... I wouldn't risk damaging the factory kit by putting 55w kit in.... That's just me tho.... Just hope the info helped...after work today Ill try to get some pics to post .... And some pics of the housing...
As for pictures, I posted a bunch recently in a different thread: Philips H11 CrystalVision Ultra Headlight Bulb - Post #9
D2R is the OEM HID bulb. So if you have HID's stock, then D2R will replace your OEM bulb. If you have halogen low beams, then I believe they would be H9, but I'm not positive. H11 is the OEM halogen high beam.
Honestly, I think you'll regret doing HID's in the high beam. HID's in reflector housings scatter light and don't illuminate the road as well as halogen. Also, high beams are often turned on & off frequently, which is HELL on the ballasts.
Also, if you have the OEM HID's, you didn't need the whole "kit" from DDM, just the bulbs.
Honestly, I think you'll regret doing HID's in the high beam. HID's in reflector housings scatter light and don't illuminate the road as well as halogen. Also, high beams are often turned on & off frequently, which is HELL on the ballasts.
Also, if you have the OEM HID's, you didn't need the whole "kit" from DDM, just the bulbs.
D2R is the OEM HID bulb. So if you have HID's stock, then D2R will replace your OEM bulb. If you have halogen low beams, then I believe they would be H9, but I'm not positive. H11 is the OEM halogen high beam.
Honestly, I think you'll regret doing HID's in the high beam. HID's in reflector housings scatter light and don't illuminate the road as well as halogen. Also, high beams are often turned on & off frequently, which is HELL on the ballasts.
Also, if you have the OEM HID's, you didn't need the whole "kit" from DDM, just the bulbs.
Honestly, I think you'll regret doing HID's in the high beam. HID's in reflector housings scatter light and don't illuminate the road as well as halogen. Also, high beams are often turned on & off frequently, which is HELL on the ballasts.
Also, if you have the OEM HID's, you didn't need the whole "kit" from DDM, just the bulbs.
And considering that HID's can take over a minute to "warm up" to full brightness, you flashing other cars will be like pointing a flashlight at them lol.
Throw the D2R in the low beam projectors, and pawn the other kit off to someone on craigslist or just return it. 5000K HID's should be a great improvement over the stock halogen lows, that's for sure.
Throw the D2R in the low beam projectors, and pawn the other kit off to someone on craigslist or just return it. 5000K HID's should be a great improvement over the stock halogen lows, that's for sure.




