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2013 RVR/Outlander Sport Immobilizer Problems

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Old Feb 11, 2014, 08:27 PM
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2013 RVR/Outlander Sport Immobilizer Problems

Hi new member just wondering if anyone else is experiencing same problem I'm having. In cold conditions -24 C or lower the immobilizer module freezes up and won't allow the vehicle to start. The car then goes into security mode and won't allow you to lock the doors or anything. Only solution is to heat up the module and then vehicle will start. I have a 2013 RVR GT. Has anyone else experienced this problem? If so what have you done to correct it. Dealer wants me to put in the car starter which will bypass the immobilizer get the vehicle running then the chip will warm up. Ive heard another dealer is installing starters on all there models in stock, which will hide the problem. Any solutions or ideas? Ive contacted the manufacturer and they claim to be working on the problem.
Old Feb 11, 2014, 09:31 PM
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Whaaaaaattttttt?! Was the dealer able to replicate the issue?
Old Feb 11, 2014, 09:33 PM
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And welcome to Attachment 332299
Old Feb 11, 2014, 10:00 PM
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I left car there overnight they went to start it, and i told them it wouldn't start, it didn't. Code the comes up is "immobilizer system service required". I think its a common problem in all rvr/outlander sports but people that have command start or live in warm weather climate don't know about. Plugging in vehicle does nothing to fix the problem, fastest way to get it started is to open glove box and blow hair dryer onto the module.
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Old Feb 11, 2014, 11:23 PM
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Would a remote start bypass this? My audio shop programmed their own module for my OS.
Old Feb 12, 2014, 02:12 AM
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Originally Posted by dacks
I left car there overnight they went to start it, and i told them it wouldn't start, it didn't. Code the comes up is "immobilizer system service required". I think its a common problem in all rvr/outlander sports but people that have command start or live in warm weather climate don't know about. Plugging in vehicle does nothing to fix the problem, fastest way to get it started is to open glove box and blow hair dryer onto the module.
It doesn't get down to -24C very often here in Chicago, but when it was -27C here in early January I didn't experience the issue you're describing on my 2011. It was absolutely a labored start, and you could tell she REALLY didn't want to be running, but no immobilizer issues.

Now, when you say "Plugging in vehicle does nothing to fix the problem", are you referring to plugging your key fob into the aux slot in the glovebox, or are you referring to either a battery charger or engine block heater? I assume you're referring to the OEM accessory engine block heater, but I'm not positive.


The "immobilizer system service required" error is caused by the following:
  • Displayed when the certification communication fails with KOS, electrical steering lock, or ECM.
  • Displayed when the power supply mode is turned ON while the keyless operation key is judged to be brought outside the vehicle with the power supply mode in ACC, or when the engine starting operation is performed after such a status.
  • Displayed when the electrical steering lock cannot be locked because there is a P detection switch malfunction. <CVT vehicle>

Are you getting ANY other warnings on the dash? Particularly, any of the following:

2013 RVR/Outlander Sport Immobilizer Problems-tp6d15o.png

2013 RVR/Outlander Sport Immobilizer Problems-03roold.png





Originally Posted by Wesley Eng
Would a remote start bypass this? My audio shop programmed their own module for my OS.
Yes and no. Because of how the ETACS ECU, the KOS/Immobilizer, and the CANBUS system all interact I'm pretty sure that it's almost impossible to bypass the immobilizer. The bypass you're referring to, like mine (EVOCAN), simply interfaces with the immobilizer.
Old Feb 12, 2014, 03:56 AM
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I should of said force it to start instead of bypass.
Old Feb 12, 2014, 04:22 AM
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I get the "immobilizer system service required warning" Its the only warning that comes up once that happens the car goes into security mode and you can't do anything until you warm up the module. Today I'm taking it in and they are putting in a new module, but from what I'm hearing from service tech this seems like a common problem. I think time of day also effects it. If left over night outside at -24 c or colder it fails every time. If left outside during day and sun radiates of the dash/engine hood it will start. I left vehicle at work overnight first time i had the problem, the next day at 6pm it was -28 but started. With regards to plugging in i meant using block heater, no effect. I have also tried putting key in the Aux glove box slot no effect either.
Old Feb 12, 2014, 06:18 AM
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Yeah, the block heater is a nice thought, but your issue is inside the passenger compartment. Possibly moisture in something and when it gets THAT cold it is shorting/grounding. I'll see what I can dig up later on this afternoon.

Good luck with the module replacement. Let us know how it goes, and it would be really cool of you to snap pics as you dig into the dash. Could be beneficial for other owners in the future.
Old Feb 12, 2014, 06:15 PM
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Took car into the dealer today to have new module and remote starter installed. Plan was to take a module out of new vehicle on the lot while they wait for mine to arrive from factory. I guess this can't be done for whatever reason, something to do with programming and existing module to another vehicle i think. Remote was installed, They put in a "autostart" slim series remote. New module is expected to be in by end of the week. Parked vehicle outside today hopefully it gets cold enough that immobilizer won't work and remote will be able to do what its suppose to.
Old Feb 13, 2014, 05:30 PM
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I have not experienced any issues so far in the cold. I live in Calgary AB, and for the last 2 weeks it has been around -20 to -25, and I have the same year and model as you.

One thing I do notice is that during a cold start up the engine makes a really loud rev noise, and that's about it.

Hopefully they get it sorted out for you.
Old Mar 12, 2014, 10:15 AM
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So i have had a new module installed in my vehicle on warranty. I have also been issued a letter that basically says there are a couple batches of these modules that are bad and if you have one of them they will replace it no questions asked. Humidity control in factory is what they think is causing the problem.
Old Mar 12, 2014, 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by dacks
So i have had a new module installed in my vehicle on warranty. I have also been issued a letter that basically says there are a couple batches of these modules that are bad and if you have one of them they will replace it no questions asked. Humidity control in factory is what they think is causing the problem.
Thank you for the update.

At least they got it replaced.




************
And, so their excuses are that the modules are Bad because :
1. Several batches of those modules are defective...
> What? Are they hand soldering them by different human workers? (at different shifts, that's the reason why "Couple of batches" slipped through??)

You would imagine once the FIRST batch was found defective they would correct it, immediately. (No quality control inspections?)


2. Or, that their factory had an "Humidity Control" issue?
Really??
> So, if they could blame it on something.. Bet they would've told you > Must have been because of the 2011 Earthquake, Tsunami & f ukushima Daiichi meltdown that lead to loss of power to their Humidifer... yes?

Please...
What a load of donkey
Old Mar 22, 2014, 02:01 PM
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I believe this is related:
KOS ECU -
RECALL Announced, LINK
Old Mar 24, 2014, 09:44 AM
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Originally Posted by mRVRsport
I believe this is related:
KOS ECU -
RECALL Announced, LINK
ya you got it this is the letter i received and problem with my vehicle, only problem now is i will have to wait until possibly december to see if the problem has been fixed


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