mRVRsport

Well..
You could fine a meat packing facility and see if they have a large deep freezer (that they'll let you drive into)

Themohns5

Same problem with start. It is 60 degrees outside. So I don't see how the cold weather affected the immobilized system error.... Car is at the auto dealer now. I will update on results.

Gerold Russello

Hello! I have a 2014 RVR and I randomly have long starts. What I mean with long starts is that i'll turn the key, and instead of turning over and starting, it turns over for an extra long time, almost as if the ignition is not sparking. Then finally it starts. The battery is fine, its not having difficulty turning over. I'm wondering if its related to the vehicle immobilization system.

AWCAWD

Most of us experienced this behavior rarely regardless whether the car is equipped with push button start or not. I do not know what the exact origin of this long start is but if this happens only rarely I would not be worried.

Gerold Russello

Interesting, thanks for the reply. I'd say it happens once a week or a few times a month. Not rare but enough to make me wonder whats going on with my new vehicle. Makes me a little less worried knowing I'm not the only one that gets this.

If anyone else has anymore advice I'd appreciate it, thanks.

AWCAWD

I doubt it is an immobilizer issue. It would not let the engine to turn over (just like when you try to start the engine while it is in gear, or not pushing the brake pedal in a push button start vehicle). My first guess is that the effect is highly likely fuel pump related.

Gerold Russello

If it was the fuel pump, wouldn't it always have issues? It runs like a clock. It only has 35000km on it.

AWCAWD

Your problem (and what many of us experienced) is different from what the OP described in post #1. His problem is indeed related to immobilizer and most likely specific to KOS equipped vehicles. The delayed start we experienced is happening in both keyless and key operated vehicles. If the starter attempts to start the engine and it does not fire up, it is mostly due to two things: no spark or no or too much fuel. I do not think we flood the engine with fuel in that 2-3 seconds, so it either starves or does not fire sparks. I do not think that the fuel pump is failing. I would rather speculate that it is electronically controlled (?). It might be related to the algorithm that is built in to prevent the catalytic converter. The electronics has to determine how rich air/fuel mix needs to be generated and it may "hesitate" sometimes.
I live in a climate where the mercury goes often below -20 C (-4 F) in winter and I have never experienced the delayed start in frigid temperatures. In these conditions it is obvious that rich mix is needed. I also never had such a start with a hot engine. This idea is pure speculation though and I have no documented proof to support it. May be others can chip in with their experience/observation. The fact is that such delayed start is happening rarely.

XSTeknique

Does anyone have an update to this issue? My 2012 has labored starts often and, on rare instances, does not start and then acts as if the battery is dead. Thinking the battery is the culprit, I jump start the car and walla...it starts...eventually.

Over the last year or so, I have had the battery replaced three times and left the car at the dealer twice. Just this past weekend, I towed the dead car to the dealer. Each time is the same result - good battery, they cannot replicate the issue, no codes, and no issues found. They have tested for parasitic power drag all over and I'm left with the same, unreliable car. I have gotten the "immobilizer system service" warning a handful of times as well, but it's not consistent. Can anyone help? I am about to email the link to the ECU recall to the service advisor (he should've figured this out for me).

Here is a video of what it does on its worst days:

mRVRsport

^
Sounds very similar to what I experienced with our OS 3 years ago.. Take a look >
(original thread)
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ou...y-feature.html



The problem was the OEM battery going bad.. However the main cause was the alternator (being faulty, not charging the battery fully/correctly) that lead to the battery failure.
(The dealer at the time tested the battery to be "good". But, the battery did suffer a slow cell failure and wasn't diagnosed until much later by me...)

The dealer also claimed it might have been a 'loose' battery terminal connection and/or loose serpentine belt... not spinning up the alternator properly. Nonetheless, they did replaced the alternator under warranty at that time, so I'm not going to whine about the battery cost.

XSTeknique

Thanks for the reply. No problems since?

mRVRsport

Sure, glad to help.
none, regarding engine start up.


but, our gas mileage has gone back down to the 21-25 range... which can be attributed to:
1. old age (we're hitting 85K on ODO now)
2. still on the OE spark plugs.. (definitely time for a refresh!)
3. driving exclusively on local roads now, don't have to hit the highways anymore! (No rush hour congestion, but we do have those pesky stop lights!)

Morgan Watson

I have a 2012 Outlander Sport that is doing the same issue. I hadn't driven it over the weekend and the temp hit below 0 degrees C during the night. Battery died and made it so the car was stuck in "start" with the green light was on. Engine was making an electric sound coming from engine and my rear tail lights would strobe when the car was charging, first slow then the strobe would speed up. Had to unhook the charger from the battery and let the car completely die (took a couple of ours) then put the charger back on. Had it on for about half an hour and went out to see if anything had changed, charger is still reading dead but car ignition button light is on (car still thinks it's "started") got in, DID NOT PRESS THE BRAKE, and held the start button for about 30 seconds. Car said "see you" (it's way of telling you it turned off, and the start button turned an amber color (indicating auxiliary power, or power being pushed into the vehicle by something like a battery charger). Car would not lock at this point and the only light on was the start button. Let it charge for 6 hours or so, went out this morning and the immobilizer service required came over the screen. Will try the remote starter thing when I get back home later and will come back with the results. If that doesn't work ill try a hair dryer (or a space heater?) to the module. Does anyone know an exact location of the module in the glove box?