jostnyc

Just got these in from China today. I saw these and wanted them right away as I have been looking for a unique way to put some drls on. These have white led on the chrome part of the bezel. I opted for the turn signal in there as well. You can get these without the turn signals. They are listed on the website for $79 for just the white drl and $94 for the turn signals and drl together. I'm hoping these work as advertised. The instructions are in Chinese which I translated a bit. They shipped with a harness which you can use to tap into the positive for power. There's other wires too I'm assuming for the turn signals. I also think there's a wire for the headlight which will dim the drls. These were shipped very fast being that they came from China. Shipping is a whopping $49. That's why I held out for a while before getting them. But their construction feels good and rigid. Not flimsy. I will post the link to the site and a pic. Will also update this thread when I put these on. Thanks for reading.

http://www.buybest365.com/2x-carspecific-drl-mitsubishi-asx-2013-led-daytime-driving-running-light_p3583.html

jostnyc

Here is a pic of the fitment without the connections. Fits tighter than the oem one, which has is good and bad. Once it's on its hard to pop off.

.M.

Looks great IMO

half3vil

i have been looking at these for a while where did you get them, and do they work. i have heard some leds dont work.

bandidom9

What about the vent that oem have for cvt cooling. Those this ones have a vent too to let air in on the left one?

jostnyc

I posted the site address to where I got them under the picture. I haven't hooked them up yet but you make a valid point. I will hook them up to the battery to make sure they work. I will post some pics.

jostnyc

If your talking about the space above the light in the oem ones these have it but they have a cover on them. That was the only difference between the two. Thank for letting me that it's a vent I will be sure to pop that cover off.

jostnyc

I finally got these installed today. I forgot to take a pic of the control box these came with. Basically it has two connectors one for each side which the drl bezels connect to it. on the other side it has 4 wires. Theres a red for positive, black for negative, white wire to connect to your headlights so that the drls dim and a blue wire which connects to an ACC wire. None of this is evident on the instructions as they are written in chinese. But they do label the blue wire ACC on the box and the intsructions. So I know from connecting amplifiers the blue wire is like a remote and unless it has power the whole system doesnt have power. I started looking for an ACC wire first and tried to look down by the fog light but the realized that all those connections down there will not operate unless the fog lights are switched on. I then took the cover off the fuse box and decided to poke around with my volt meter while I had key switched on. I found a few candidates and tested them with the key off and on. So I chose 2 wires. I decided to put the red positive wire there as I found a constant positive. And I also found a switched ACC wire. I tapped my connections there. Here are a couple of pics.






Next came the ground wire. It already had a hook connector attached so I removed a bolt and put it on there. The bolt is part of the fuse box.


After the connections were made i decided to test them out before going any further.




I opted for the ones with the signals integrated with the drls. There were 2 yellow wires coming out from the control box. I assumed these were for the signals. I connected both wires to my signal light at the front to test them out.


Signals worked fine. I just installed a set of resistors to the front signals because I swapped those bulbs for led ones. That was perfect because there is no hyper flashing at all. Here is the connection from the yellow wire to the signal after the resistor.


After those connections were made I had to find a way to put that cover back on and I goofed with the way I went about it. I decided to take some snips to make a route for the wire to come out of the fuse box. But the cover cracked unevenly and this is what I ended up with. Needless to say it did what I intended.


I closed that up and then needed to route the connector from the bezel to the control box. On the left side behind the fog light there is a condenser or transmission cooler. The connector can be routed above the fog light in front of the condenser or cooler. You can reach in the engine bay and snake it up to the top where the control box is waiting. Someone had mentioned that the oem fog light bezel has a vent to move air towards this condenser or cooler. The drl bezels have a cover over that vent which I was able to remove with a box cutter.






In order for the bezel to fit right I had to push the front in first and then the back side. They fit snug. On the other side its easier to route the bezel connection. It can be routed the same way as the other side. Once you reach down you will feel the connector. The biigest obstacle I though was going to be getting the bezel connector across the front of the vehicle and into the control box on the other side. But this proved to be quite easy as the support where the hood latch is located is hollow. And there is enough slack on both the bezel connector and the control box connector. Keep in mind that the yellow wire from the control box has to go across too into the right signal. I routed them together and you can see the yellow wire along with the bezel connector in the pics.








After that I was done and ready to test. WhenI signal the white light goes out and the signal is on. It doesnt come back on instantly takes like a second to come back on. Also when I turn the car off they stay on for 25 seconds and then turn off. I dont know if thats my shotty connections or just a built in delay that they have. I like it as it can light they way for a bit. These definitely will get attention. They look pretty good on there. Hopefully everything will stay dry and error free. Im pretty sure you guys can figure out better connection points. My skills are limited so I usually frankenstein everything. Lets see how long they last.

achoren

Just checking in on the LED DRL's. How have they held up?

I just ordered a set myself, albeit without the turn indication integrated.

If you have any insight about the wire to tap off of for ACC, that would be greatly appreciated! I like your approach to look in the fuse box/wiring connections - from my stereo wiring experience though, finding a good signal wire can be a real PITA!

Any location/wires would be a great help!