^
Just enjoy your ride.
Your vehicle will be just Fine without you doing any oil change at this point.

 

I also was also looking into this, there are a lot of opinions on breaking in a new car, one side says its a must do and the other side says no longer necessary at this day and age. Maybe OP can play "Mythbusters" for us and have him open up and examine the filters at the intervals noted above


I also read somewhere (and somewhat made sense to me when I read the article) that if you really want to break in a new car you need to use conventional oils during the process (for metal parts to mate well) since syn is too slippery already.


When we picked up our OS the mitsu dealer service manager came up to introduce himself and I asked about this subject, accdg to him no longer necessary to break in the car but he did stress the importance of the first oil change AT THE DEALER (wonder if they sample the oil for analysis per Mitsu's orders for their own study).

 

Full synthetics definitely have more components in them to help reduce friction, so that's probably why it's suggested to use conventional oils. But, unless you're building motors for weekend racers or custom hotrods, I don't think you need to do that with our modern daily drivers.

It does seem to take a bit longer for our engines to "break-in".. most likely due to our 0W-20 , they're so thin they are like water.

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I doubt they take do.. I watched them drain the oil straight into a 55gal barrel.



>>> However, I do recommend you take it in ON SCHEDULE for the first oil change, so they will have your vehicle registered and in their network system for "per warranty and such" coverage.
10 years is a long time and a very generous coverage period, so why not do the little things to take full advantage of it.

 

Sorry for digging old threads! but if i do my own oil changes, do i need to have the dealer reset my maintenance light?

 

No, not at all. I personally disabled (set it to off position) the service reminder light and tell every time I visit the dealer that I do not want it to be touched.
You may just keep your receipts for the oil and the filter.

 

I just did my first oil change. I used Royal Purple everything, 5w20, oil filter, and their max clean fuel system cleaner. Coming from a turbo vehicle I've always used their HPS with zinc but since this is NA I will use their regular line. The 5w20 5gal jug can be bought off the shelfs for $37. I didn't use the 0w20 as one the RP is not on shelfs and two my OS will never really see the specified low temparure range so the 5w20 is just fine. I will be changing it every 5k and like I've always had I will use their fuel system cleaner every oil change as well. In my other vehicles I have noticed that it does help. After my oil change and system cleaner In my OS I just got 420 mi on a mini trip with about 60 of it being straight city. I will see how much I get on this road trip I'm about to take as all the products start to take its affect.

 

did our first oil change at 2250 ...... only because 1st free oil change at the dealer coupon was about to expire.

i'm guessing that the OS doesn't need jacked up for an oil change, with its decent amount of ground clearance?

 

Nope may be a little close if your big lol. But it can be done without lifting

 

just another $.02:

some of us have tested/used Rotella oils for the past.. well, a lot of years. it's full Syn and very reasonably priced. most auto stores sell it, but it's cheapest at Wal-Mart (most auto-part stores will price match).

i've used their T6 on all my fun/autox/track cars and Rotella T synthetic in everything else. i change oil before each track event on the Evo and go about 4-5k ish on the Civic.

i've had all the Amsoil, Royal Purple, Mobil 1, etc people tell us we're crazy, but the UOAs don't lie.

 

cool - i was able to reach under and do it without raising our Subarus, but my last two cars are too low.

not a big deal, but i'd prefer not to drag out a jack and jackstand (lazy bastard ).

 

I really wish I'd taken auto shops in high school. Getting tired of oil change ripoff.

 

You should learn the convience of doing it yourself. It is pretty simple.

 

i got learned in my grandfather's garage. he was very patient.

if i have a coupon for a *dealer*, sometimes i'll take it there if the cost is similar to doing it myself, but i'd rather not have to drive there and sit in the waiting room.

i would never trust one of those Quicky Lube type places.

if you want, i could give you a list of stuff you would need ....

 

I know what I need. It means that the payout is 4 -5 years. Of course my Dad used to do this all the time; I never paid attention, sadly. I know it is not tough but all the tools. parts, disposing of oil etc. makes it uneconomic.

 

nah, just need a socket wrench and a couple sockets (to remove undertray "oil access" panel and drain plug), a drain pan, and an oil filter wrench of some sort. oil, filter, and crush washer for drain plug, too, obviously.

optional items are a funnel, box of disposable rubber gloves, radio, and beer.

most big auto parts chain stores will recycle the used oil for free.

the savings comes in knowing you changed the oil with a quality oil and filter, and not trusting that some daydreaming highschool kid remembered to tighten the drain plug and filter, or even put oil in it at all.