Just picked up a 2015 O.Sport was wondering what kind of oil/filter you guys are using? I know this is more of a personal preference but just curios of what combination everyone is using.

 

Congrats!
Welcome to the club.

Here's my opinion >
Mobil1 Full Synthetic 0W-20 with Bosch filter & use New crush gaskets too (buy from dealer).
Original post#423, https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ou...-today-29.html.


PS: Definitely follow the manufacturer's suggested oil change schedule.
First oil change should be free courtesy of Mitsubishi. (at least it was for 2013s.)

 

What is the general consensus on the "regular" schedule.

I see severe and normal in my manual. I did some research on the "severe" and I don't really fall under any of those categories. (dusty roads, short trips, sandy areas, towing etc. etc.)

However my 2009 Outlander was always done at 6000KM.

Since reading about the "severe" schedule I'm wondering if I even needed to bother doing this so often.

What are you guys typically doing? Normal states 8000KM for me.

 

Here's Everything you want to know about oil & change schedules >
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ou...prognosis.html

 

Just ordered a free kit! the O.sport only has maybe 150 miles, i was hoping on changing the oil this weekend. How much oil did you need for the test?

Never mind, i just checked. they only need 3oz

 

whoa... why would you do that @ only 150 miles??

The factory oil is full synthetic 0W-20 and you need to let it be the "break-in" oil. It's going to take at least 3,500 miles before our O.sports loosens up.

You'd be throwing money out the window if you change now.

Plus, you should get your first oil change done at the dealership (which should be free anyways) so they have a record in their computer systems, so to prove that you're officially following the recommended factory schedules... For warranty purposes.

Well, it's your vehicle do as you please, of course.

 

mobile 1 full synthetic and STP filter, because they had the combo deal on sale for that filter at auto zone saving me $12.00

 

I'll probably do it this weekend and again at 1000 miles, just to get all the metallic flake out of it then start on the manufactures recommendation. I've read a lot of articles saying that the first oil change usually look like gold metallic flake in the oil, so for my own piece of mind i think i will do the change. its only $21 for mobile1 full synthetic at Walmart (as much as i hate going there) plus $5 for a wix filter at schucks

 

I see..

May I save you $21 then?
Since it's the filter than takes care of keeping "flakes" from circulating back through the engine. If you're worried about a build-up of metal shaving, then perhaps it's best to change the oil Filter more often.

Save the $$ (for something else) and the landfills.

The lubricants in the full synthetics won't even have nudged their half-life yet at 1,000 miles, let alone at 3,500.

Just my 2 cents.

.

Actually it looks like dark maple syrup >




https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ou...der-sport.html

 

I do appreciate your 2 pennies! Any info on my new car is helpful! I've never owned a new car before so I'm in uncharted territory lol

 

Indeed..
Then I understand your desire to be pro-active about it's maintenance. However, it's like washing your vehicle (new or old)... you can Over do it and that'll actually become a detriment.

I'd say get yourself a 3 pack of filters (for $15) and change it at ODO 1K, 3K, and 6K. That should ease your mind.
And, you'll take full advantage of the factory 0W-20 full synthetic.

By that time you'll be fairly close to the recommended oil change schedule (@ ~7,500) anyways, so you can take it to the dealer and have them drain and fill you with fresh oil and replace the filter + crush washer for that drain plug (all for free, IF Mitsu corporate still offers that deal.)

> And, you can get a CVI report done too.

 

you can always get a magnetic oil drain plug as well to snag the metal shavings

 

I understand that you're trying to be proactive but break-in oil is different than normal oil. It is important to run the break-in oil for the amount of time specified.

 

Not quite sure if those magnetic doodads work as well with an all aluminum block (+ heads, which our motors are.)

But, I guess it can't hurt anything at least.

Well, I wouldn't call our factory oil actual break-in oil...
But, just to let it be and use it like a red-headed stepchild.


NOTE:
Whatever you do >> DO NOT use any other viscosity other than the Manufacturer recommended 0W-20.

 

Thanks for all the input guys, i do appreciate it! I'm still unsure about what I'm going to do quite yet.