Hello,

I just purchased a 2011 Outlander Sport SE with 91,000 miles for a family member. I took it for a test dive and it drove great. Once I went back to the local dealer and signed all the paper work while I was driving it home the Service Transmission light on the dash came on. Once the car was turned off and back on the light was gone. I was planning on taking it to a Mitsubishi dealer in town and having an oil change done the next day, so I asked them to do a diagnostic check on it. The tech called me back and said he had bad news. He pulled a (P1740) and (P1749), (B1477) and (B1476) codes. He said the code was an internal transmission fail. He said he drove the car around the building and the service transmission light came back on. He told me that the transmission needed to be replaced!! He told me that it was not worth tearing apart the transmission and that a rebuilt one was still going to cost thousands and may not be worth it due to the overall value of the car.

I drove it back to the small local dealer where I purchased the car and told them and gave them the paper the Mitsubishi tech gave me. They drove the car and said they could not find any codes and that I would need to continue to drive the car until the service light came back on and then bring the car back so they could see the code. the mechanic here said based on the code that it looked like some type of solenoid for the transmission or torque converter solenoid needed to be replaced and that it was simple.

so I have had this car for a total of 4 days and im scratching my head, it drives fine, no weird noises, no shuttering?!?!

is the P1740/P1749 fault code a simple transmission fluid/filter change and or simple solenoid fix

Or like the Mitsubishi dealer does the transmission need to be replaced?

I have searched the internet for the P1740/P1749 code and nothing I have read said the transmission needed to be replaced

any help would be great!

 

I have got the P1749 code at 2011. Dealer said they do nothing but change the transmission. Searching the web I found it is the dirty ATF that sometimes making the solenoids hesitate thus triggers the code. Solenoids are expensive like 200+ for one. What I did is drain and refill the ATF, clean the ATF strainer, open the solenoids and clean their strainers. Test drive and do drain and refill again. Do same thing every year.

Cold days, drive in low gear. Only go to D after five minutes.

three years later, I traded it in for a RVR. It has ten year warranty so I will never get to that dilemma.

 

Thank your for the info.

after speaking with the service tech, he said the transmission fluid looked just "okay" a little dark not great but not bad. I am wondering if new fluid and filter would be a good place to start.

I spoke to another Mitsubishi tech and based the codes the tech said the valve body on the transmission needed to be replaced and that in a lot of cases they have just cleaned a "connector" hose and that it usually fixes the issue and the light does not come back on. They said its a large connector hose and takes about 30 mins to do. Has anyone tried or heard of this cleaning? I was quoted about $250 for this service and replacing the transmission fluid.

 

250 sounds ok. Remember it needs another drain and refill after a full test drive. Let him to include one more drain and refill if you could.

The solenoid are definitely good. If any of them is bad, the car is not able to move at all, not even an inch. The reason you got a code, is because one of them is hesitate to move; the reason it is hesitate, is because of the restriction of flow/pressure; the reason of that restriction, is because of the dirt from the friction pack being transporting everywhere by the ATF. What he gonna do, is not to change the hose. He is to change/clean the steel strainer at the inlet of the hose. Changing a solenoids would cost at least 400.

Drain and refill ATF once, only replaces about 70%. another drain and refill will replace another 70% so that you replaced 90% total. Do this drain and refill every year.

Anyway, drain and refill, cleaning the strainers by removing the hoses, sounds reasonable for 250. After this, you only have to do drain and refill.

Oh one more thing: never flush your transmission. Only (naturally gravity) drain and refill.

 

Thanks for the info,

This makes sense, if the solenoids were bad the car wouldn't drive. I will try the ATF change and see if it helps.