2018 Outlander Sport Tower Strut Bar Info

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Nov 2, 2020 | 10:47 AM
  #1  
Hi, I've been looking and searching for quite some time and I can't seem to find any info.

Does anyone know what strut tower bars fit a 2018 Outlander Sport? Everything I have read or seen are for years before 2018.

(Yes I have looked through all the threads but no definitive answer)

(Used to be an old member but my login disappeared so I was forced to create a new one)
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Nov 3, 2020 | 03:42 AM
  #2  
I used a Evo X strut bar on my 2013. Not sure what if anything has changed under the hood since my model year. I believe strut bars for a regular lancer will fit as well. The EVO X one had to have to bolt holes opened up a tiny bit to work, but literally did not take more than 10 minutes for the modification and install.
Reply 1
Nov 3, 2020 | 07:34 PM
  #3  
Thanks! let me give it a shot. I ordered the evo X one and will update to see if it fits, etc. What do you use to widen the hole? Dremel?
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Nov 4, 2020 | 03:51 AM
  #4  
I just used a round file. I got a free evo X bar from a friend of mine who upgraded his X
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Nov 5, 2020 | 12:53 PM
  #5  
I installed the Cusco CZ4A 08-12 evo Type OS Front Oval Strut. It fit perfectly. I just couldn't use the supplied spacers cause didn't have much thread to bolt it down if I did. Unfortunately this came with the center bracket.. which I didn't look that closely when ordering but oh well. Besides that center mounting bracket, it was a perfect fit.

Now I can drive it a bit harder and reminisce my old evo 8 and 9.

Thanks SicLanEvo.
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Nov 6, 2020 | 03:18 AM
  #6  
Quote: I installed the Cusco CZ4A 08-12 evo Type OS Front Oval Strut. It fit perfectly. I just couldn't use the supplied spacers cause didn't have much thread to bolt it down if I did. Unfortunately this came with the center bracket.. which I didn't look that closely when ordering but oh well. Besides that center mounting bracket, it was a perfect fit.

Now I can drive it a bit harder and reminisce my old evo 8 and 9.

Thanks SicLanEvo.
it definitely Helps stiffen up the front of the outlander sport. I recently lost my OS and I miss it everyday! Picked up a commuter Hyundai Elantra, Almost 2 weeks ago now. My new car went back to have a airbag sensor and TPMS sensor replaced, So I have been driving a Mazda CX-5 that is new, but it doesn't compare to the comfort I had in my Outlander Sport.
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Nov 6, 2020 | 02:23 PM
  #7  
Quote: it definitely Helps stiffen up the front of the outlander sport. I recently lost my OS and I miss it everyday! Picked up a commuter Hyundai Elantra, Almost 2 weeks ago now. My new car went back to have a airbag sensor and TPMS sensor replaced, So I have been driving a Mazda CX-5 that is new, but it doesn't compare to the comfort I had in my Outlander Sport.
Sorry to hear about your loss. The CX-5 has pretty good reviews, no?
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Nov 9, 2020 | 03:24 AM
  #8  
Quote: Sorry to hear about your loss. The CX-5 has pretty good reviews, no?
It's nice but I don't like the ride or its clunky drivetrain.
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Nov 9, 2020 | 08:47 AM
  #9  
Quote: I used a Evo X strut bar on my 2013. Not sure what if anything has changed under the hood since my model year. I believe strut bars for a regular lancer will fit as well. The EVO X one had to have to bolt holes opened up a tiny bit to work, but literally did not take more than 10 minutes for the modification and install.

Same here. After looking for info on here I picked up a used evo x strut bar for my 2015 OS. Drilled out the holes a tiny bit. Took maybe 2 minutes. Fits great
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Feb 25, 2021 | 11:39 AM
  #10  
Just did this one from a EVO X OEM Brace!
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Jun 2, 2021 | 05:55 AM
  #11  
Quote: I used a Evo X strut bar on my 2013. Not sure what if anything has changed under the hood since my model year. I believe strut bars for a regular lancer will fit as well. The EVO X one had to have to bolt holes opened up a tiny bit to work, but literally did not take more than 10 minutes for the modification and install.

Quote: Same here. After looking for info on here I picked up a used evo x strut bar for my 2015 OS. Drilled out the holes a tiny bit. Took maybe 2 minutes. Fits great
did you guys install your bars on the ground or with the front end jacked up?
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Jun 2, 2021 | 09:05 AM
  #12  
No they were bolted on while sitting on the ground. Unless you have a lift and even then I assumed when you left the car you will slightly tweak the suspension if you don't have both sides absolutely parallel.

As far as performance is concerned I did notice a slight Improvement. Borderline with imaginary. I plan on lifting and firming up the suspension. So in my mind it can't hurt.

If you ask me about my 1998 Mitsubishi Galant when I do the strut Tower brace it was a noticeable Improvement. But based on the size and location of the strut mounts it seems like one was built for a sedan which benefited greatly from the brace. The other one was built as a small SUV which already had some beefyness to it.

Lastly stick with Steel as the aluminum eBay models are junk.
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Jun 4, 2021 | 05:14 AM
  #13  
Quote: No they were bolted on while sitting on the ground. Unless you have a lift and even then I assumed when you left the car you will slightly tweak the suspension if you don't have both sides absolutely parallel.

As far as performance is concerned I did notice a slight Improvement. Borderline with imaginary. I plan on lifting and firming up the suspension. So in my mind it can't hurt.

If you ask me about my 1998 Mitsubishi Galant when I do the strut Tower brace it was a noticeable Improvement. But based on the size and location of the strut mounts it seems like one was built for a sedan which benefited greatly from the brace. The other one was built as a small SUV which already had some beefyness to it.

Lastly stick with Steel as the aluminum eBay models are junk.
the reason you guys had to drill out the holes was because guys installed the strut bars wrong. You have to jack the front end up, this causes the distance between the strut tops to flex because the chassi “releases”. Then when you set the car down, it pinches the strut bar between the two strut tops and causes it to be stiff and a direct linkage. If you do it on the ground and drill out the holes it isn’t loaded up between the strut towers. Also the strut tops are then only linked in one direction because there’s play.

for the record I have an evo X bar, jacked the front end up, no drilling needed. Front end is much less sloppy.

no lift just on jack stands, they don’t have to be parallel, just off the wheels so the weight is off the strut towers and on the frame/body.
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Jun 4, 2021 | 07:46 AM
  #14  
I'm not so sure about lifting that as it may cause preload. I have an evo 10/x as well. To install mine I had to remove all the nuts on both sides. Then place it on both sides simultaneously. Not installing one side at a time. No drilling or widening the holes was required at all but it was a tight fit.

I also had a Steeda Bar on my friends Mustang never mentioned lifting the car in the video or the printed instructions.
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Jun 4, 2021 | 02:46 PM
  #15  
Quote: I'm not so sure about lifting that as it may cause preload. I have an evo 10/x as well. To install mine I had to remove all the nuts on both sides. Then place it on both sides simultaneously. Not installing one side at a time. No drilling or widening the holes was required at all but it was a tight fit.

I also had a Steeda Bar on my friends Mustang never mentioned lifting the car in the video or the printed instructions.
the whole point of a strut bar is to cause preload so as to have the strut stops linked.
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