Hey guys

I bought a 2010 STI for a pretty good price about 3 weeks ago, but I'm not that happy with it, and some of the mitsubishi dealers are still calling me up...

I'm just wondering what are the actual prices paid for an EVO MR cos the dealer is listing a fully optioned one at 47k, with MSRP at 45k, invoice at 43K... and I think I remember reading here sometime ago that west coasters typically pay below invoice (can't find the thread)...

Also, can u guys recommend a good dealer? Went to auburn valley, not a good experience but have the stock, the only other ones i know is karmart (burlington), korum (Pullaylup), and younker (Renton)

TL;DR: Price for fully optioned MR, good dealer

Cheers!
(Hope I'm not hated for being STI driver)

 

what aren't you happy about with the STi?

 

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/hu...ubishi-ca-188/

 

I just picked up my mr (no aero/interior led's for just over 40k +taxes/license/gap. IIRC has every option except those two.) All i know is it was below MSRP and supposedly at invoice. The sales guy actually treated me pretty well despite being a kid in there eyes (I'm 26 but look early 20s from what i am told) so I wasn't wanting to bicker over a few bucks in the scheme of things.

 

YOUNKER!! Let me know what questions you have and I will be glad to help you out!!! We have two GSRs and one MR in stock. Dont forget to come to out meet on Saturday!!

 

I picked up my SE a year ago for msrp ~37k. It really depends on the market at the time and how bad they need to sell one. A caveat to that is the uniqueness of the model/options you want, which is what limited me from getting a better price. I bought my car from Auburn valley and had a great experience, but I walked in pre-approoved and they pretty much just did what I asked. The MR I was considering was just at 40k as ryancb mentioned.

 

I got my MR for just under 40. I don't remember the exact amount offhand. I bought it from the dealership in Auburn, but I can't recommend them much, their service was terrible. Unfortunately I can't say alot great about Younker either, they would not let me test drive the car at all, it was a deal breaker. They lost out on 40 grand sale over it.

 

I like the parts department at younker, can't say anything about car sales though. I order stuff from them and they thought they had the right parts in stock (turns out a few pieces on the 8 and 9 are different) and they shipped them up to bellevue for me for free so that I didn't have to make the drive back down

@steve - I never get why car places won't let you test drive. we were looking at a fiat 500 abarth for my girlfriend and the most they would do is start the car. we couldn't test drive it to see if we even liked the car. why the hell would i buy a car that i've never driven, and why should i even consider buying the car if you won't let me drive it?

 

It's one thing to stop people from joy riding cars and whatnot, but I'm a nearly 40 year old man who was a serious buyer. I bought my car the very next day at the other dealership immediately after the test drive. Their loss I guess =P

 

I can understand the depreciation that happens on a brand new car and a dealership not wanting to get a low volume car to build up very many miles from a bunch of test drives.

Dont we all want to buy that new car with as close to 0.00 miles as possible? I picked up my Mazdaspeed3 with 14 miles directly off the truck and it still had on the plastic wrap. Also, I put almost 20 miles on a previous year model (not a color I would buy) and they were happy to let me have the test drive. Signed the paperwork that night

That being said, they need to let a well qualified buyer make an informed decision. We arent shopping for porsche's because we have 3 more in our garage, and at the price point we're buying cars that are NOT for the masses. A test drive of reasonable distance should be acceptable and IMHO it IS a deal breaker.

 

Thats crazy. I would NEVER buy a car without test driving it first. How would they expect to sell it without letting you drive it. My gf wants to custom order a new Range Rover and I told her she needs to go test drive one first to see if she likes it. That would be a costly mistake if she bought it and didnt like something about it and got out of it a year or two later.

 

thanks for the information guys, i think the gist of it is that they mostly sell around invoice not the MSRP or crazy "market adjusted" values?

completely off topic but since we're all talking about it, auburn actually let me test drive the MR, i didn't even give them my license or insurance (although my dad was inside).

but, i got test drive a porsche 911 GTS4 when i dropped off my mums cayenne for a service...

im 23

i think i'll wait until july (is that when the 2013 come out?) for a little more reduction on the 2012s (does that happen?)

 

how was the gts4 ? I kinda want to call BS on that but if you did good for you.

 

Finally did it today guys!! So I have a awful lot of questions.

For those wondering, its a 2012 MR premium and navigation.

The pics of of my STI and EVO (not the one I bought, just parked next to), and the EVO in my garage

Could someone give me the skinny on the break in procedure and warranty?

My understanding is that below 3000rpm for 1000 mile, oil change at 3000-5000mile?

Warranty - the dealer said, "as long as mod doesn't cause fault, fault is covered."

For the subaru, the go to website for parts was rallysportdirect, could you guys recommend a good evo site?

As for the mods:

Exhaust: I'm looking at the HKS Hi Power, are there any other JDM recommendations?

COBB AP : this was pretty much essential for the STI, how bad is the factory tune on the EVO?

Boost gauge: Where to mount/which one?

BOV: Which one?

How to get rid of that awful chrome?!

Can I tint all my windows?

The car rides kind high... will the springs settle in?

 

Congrats man and I'm sure you'll love it. I can't speak on some of those things, but I I bought my SE new and can tell you what I did.

Break in I didn't break 4500 rpm, I've bought new before and I think the most important thing is to not sit at a certain rpm for a long period of time (e.g don't drive 800 miles straight at 3000 rpm).

I changed the oil the first time a 3k, but I usually am on the early side of things for precautions.
I bought my car from the same place I think and I waited to mod my car until I knew everything was in working order; about 8k or 1 year after purchase. I'm sure if you have mods and need warranty work that it's going to be a hassle so I just assume I don't have a warrant even though by definition I still have coverage.

For parts it kind of depends on what you're looking for. I use MAP and ETS. I also got my wheels from LSD motorsports and would highly recommend them.

Parts wise JDM is pricey and the gains aren't worth the premium imo, but anything will be a nice improvement over stock.

The stock tune has a lot to be desired, but I had a Cobb Accessport and would recommend an English Tune as a better and more cost effective alternative. The Cobb product doesn't allow for SST map changes and frankly the Cobb OTS maps suck. If you got the Cobb you'd still want a pro tune and that was about $1000 after purchase price plus what Cobb Surgeline wanted to charge for a tune. English tune was $300 and I know it was done right.

I don't actually use a boost gauge, but mainly because I'm trying to setup in dash EvoScan.

BOV, I don't think you need one since the stock DV should be ok for your mods. However, I'm gonna change mine out soon since I'm aiming for mods to support more boost and the TIAL is a good product to look at.

Evo X w/stock springs = Monster Truck. I bought the Swift spec-r's after researching the options. I think they handle great, but you can get a little more drop with Tein's I believe.

Window tinting I don't know about, I've kept mine stock. Chrome, I don't know much about since my car didn't come with all that flash :-)