LOL FAIL. "I want to tune my own car myself, and my primary tuning obstacle is my VTA BOV. I need help tuning around it." Sorry to contribute crap to an already crappy thread but it really is that ironic!

If you want to tune it correctly, buy the proper equipment:

GM MAF
MAF Translator
Dejon Upper IC pipe
Dejon Intake Pipe.

thanks for a good answer, i already have the dejon intake pipe, using stock uicp, il have to pic up a maf translator and a gm maf thanks

You can also get an HKS EIDS, but it does need to be tuned for to run properly.

ya i was reading about it, i havent heard many positive reviews

Thats because most just slap it on and hope it works. You need to actually get tuned for it. Maybe it once your ready for your next state of mods, but thats the only way ive seen a VTA BOV work well on an Evo with out switching to speed density.

like i said earlier - relocating the MAF works. thats how the MAFTranslator works.
the EIDS is just a bandaid.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=299943

MAF translator and sensor for sale

I agree and thats the route i would go if i was to go VTA. Im just going from the experience my friend has had with it and hes going on close to year with the EIDS and no problems. He also has the HKS racing BOV if that makes any difference.

+1

Have you felt to see if air is coming out of the valve at idle? If its venting at Idle it'll run rich, and there is **NOTHING** you can do to fix it except adjust the valve so it stays closer, in turn that ruins drivability even more..

EIDS is useless, it will never work right with an Evo, as it f's with the MAF signal.

blowthrough MAF sensors are great, and work really well on higher horsepower cars.. But are a huge waste of money if your intent is only to run a VTA BOV.

You need to recirculate the valve, period, if you don't, small children will cry, and kittens will be sacrificed to the ricer gods.

You can get that sound you want doing things the right way, Aftermarket intake with open element filter, and recirculate the valve back into the intake. You'll and you'll get the same sounds of midgets farting as "those other guys"

This is exactly what you're problem is.

Adjust the valve down so its closed during idle. (no air coming out) This will help. But not fix your situation.

The black smoke is because your car cannot build boost. The valve is so open at idle, the vacuum line on the bov doesn't see boost. Or close. Which means you are simply trying to boost, out of a hole in the UICP.

Which doesn't work, because your MAF metered car is still seeing all that air go thru the system and drowning the car in fuel.

I have a WB o2. And I will tell you right now, if you see thick black smoke out of the ass of the car like that its in the low 8's A/F. Lower if you have a cat.

I just tested knock off HKS and it was the same story. However it had no adjustment. :rolleyes: So I cracked it open and got a heavy spring out of another bov for it. Its now fine. And stays closed at idle. And honestly my a/f ratio stays where it should.

But, this is no substitute for a properly recirculated bov. That was just a test. And, its not staying on the car.

uninstall the ricer in you. if for some reason your still running the program and cant uninstall, then get a dual port valve that can recirculate some of the air and vent so you get your cool "woosh" and still the driveability of a recirculating valve. Or better yet, just recirculate the damn thing, thats the beauty of the type s.

Only valve that i had work problem free on two different maf cars that ive owned, built 90 talon, 00 s4, would be a pull type valve like the hks. the hks works differently, and i dont know if its worth trying to explain if you cant even figure this out, but it is an option that should give you a loud fricken noise and still 80% driveability unlike a ventign valve which is more close to 30% i think. also dont run a tial on a maffed car LOL stall city

I have a Greddy Type S on my car, and it is recirculating, along with a full Injen (Junk) set-up of the upper intercooler pipes, and their intake. I am running a TurboXS (I think) MAF adapter with a K&N cone filter on the end, and my Type S you can hear from 6 blocks away.

I have a properly running, properly recirculating BOV set-up that runs as intended, and it is still loud as hell. So, if I can do it, and still make all sorts of midget fart noises, and have a properly running car, then you can too. So, fix your car, set it up properly, get it to run right, then you can have your loud fart noises all you want. Do it the right way and you will spend less time trying to fix it than you would have if you just did it right the first time.

good info, i got a similar problem!