tadaa :D

if there has been any that i missed, i appreciate anybody pointing them out so i could add them.

Here is my Auterra run:
https://img150.imageshack.us/img150/...pt051260ko.gif

wow. you weigh 300 lbs, or you got a system in the car?

I weight 120lbs, my sound system is 60lbs, I have sunroof, ABS + 1/4 tank of gas and my wheels are slightly heavier than stock OZ wheels. So I figured it would round up to 300Lbs. You guys have any idea of the weight of the ABS system and Sunroof assy?

is it the whole motorized sunroof assy? the motors might do you in for weight. abs shouldn't weigh you down much at all. it should be just 4 small speed sensor sprockets, 4 speed sensors, and a kinda small brake distribution box.

here's how i'd break it down
2701 -> car's full weight(all fluids full), 5MT, w/AC
-50 -> 1/4 tank at 6.25 lbs per gallon in 12 gallon tank
+60 -> sound system
+32 -> dsm sunroof weight full assy with motors for comparison
+15 -> larger rims
+15 -> abs, prob weighs less
+120 -> you
2893 lbs

I'll re-dyno at 2900lbs and see what results it yells out.

So here it is. Using 2900Lbs as the total weight(same person driving, same fuel quantity, same road and yada yada yada). Looks like the other ones weren't that far off. Except maybe the 129hp :dunno: Anyway... here it is:

http://img308.imageshack.us/img308/2...pt071259pg.gif

See this thread for new post!

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh....php?p=2351325

I think you will like it.

ROAD/RACE :apimp:

And here is my dyno:
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...givq/dyno2.jpg

112.00 whp and 123.00 torque
With 10.5:1 pistons from RRM, SRI, FPR, not tuned HKS SAFR.

3rd gear.

Damn... {OMG} Look at that torque curve. It just stays up there!!

Those are some good numbers for an untuned Setup. The tale end AFR's start going a little rich. I'd try and keep everything around 12.8-13:1 as long as there is no knock.

Also get a CAI... when it gets rainy swap out for your short ram... for power and dyno stuff though a CAI will yield better results.

With proper AFR you'll jump up a little bit better numbers and stabalize the tale end hp/tq curve.

Do you have header/High flow cat or test pipe/TB/Intake Manifold?

Also what plugs you running/octane fuel?

If you look close you can see where hp/tq start dropping due to your AFR's past 4500rpms. Possibly 5+ hp/tq being lost right there. Could be more if you have/get the above mods i asked about.

keeping a copy on the forum.

I don't have any other mods than SRI and FPR.

Am I the only one who can't see Greg's charts? *******it I really want to see it! :crap:

Thanks for adding another dyno to the group greg.

WADAD

i made an attachment on my last post. you should be able to see that. it's greg's dyno.

Note that this dyno was done in the 3rd gear.

4th would yield a little better numbers on the curve but the AFR would still be the same.

For a long time you guys have been saying 3rd gear is a more powerful gear to dyno? How it produces higher hp and tq figures.

Which one is it?

WADAD

i would say 4th. the only reasoning i can come up with is that distance and speed play a role. you will have higher mph in 4th than 3rd.

On an NA car the differences are very little between 3rd and 4th usually. With forced induction the RPM ramp is much more pronounced and the torque is higher yielding so doing an FI car in different gearing other than 1:1 can yield very different results.

4th is the 1:1 gearing and true gear all dyno's should be done in no matter what the car/truck/suv/etc.

When NA though it's not very much different unless using some super tranny that has taller gear sets to allow for higher hp controllability.

Most stock trannys don't have this huge varience... again though as you stated the rpm ramp and rotational force being applied is what's being measured. Thus for FI guys it's very important to do the pull in the 1:1 ratio for the most accuracy and true results. Lower gearing will yield higher results with them due to the hightened ramp... On an NA car the difference from pulling in 3rd to 4th may seem like a lot but it is still a nice long ramp that the dyno can accurately calculate off of.

oh yeah. i read in a dynojet instruction manual(downloadable on the web somewhere) you HAVE TO dyno in 4th. having the 1:1 ratio does make sense as the variables in finding hp are distance, time, and rpm, and if these are the main variables(i know, not all the vars) used then having your rpms at a higher range of mph will see different results. and then as boe said, accurate measure of the engine as there is no torque multiplier.

hey boe, what kind of difference have you seen between dynoing in 3rd and in 4th?

exactly! {thumbup}

Well... looks like the weight was somewhat accurate on this one. I got on a scale this weekend and the weight of the car was 1280Kg(2821lbs) + my weight(120lbs) = 2941. I weighted the car with 1/4 tank.

I have to add my weight because it was late at night and the station was closed. So I had to get out of the car to go have a look at the computer screen :lol:

I have RRM Short ram intake/HEaders/Piggy back/ligthweigth pulley does anyone know how many wheel hp and wheel tq i might have? someone please let me know

Don't want to be rude, but this is a thread where you post your dyno graph. Not where you ask questions;) You should dyno around 115-120

^ +1

Once you get past the neophyte tuning mentality, you would know that there is no way to calculate how much power you will get by adding up your mods or any equasion like that. So the best answer to that question is that you will have somewhere between 100 and 120 whp and 110-130 wtq, but that's assuming you didn't get too open of a header, in which case I've actually seena loss of torque.

But seriously, the only way to tell is to pay the $75 and get it dynoed.

My latest results with piggyback:

https://img14.imageshack.us/img14/1542/afterpb6lh.jpg

Very nice Blaze. The curve is very nice and stable, and you have a lot of torque a long way, then the max hp hits right about where you want to shift. What other mods do you have, or is that just with the piggy?

blaze dont forget to put type of dyno and conditions up as well... but nice pulls

are you letting it hit the rev limiter? you gotta end the run before that or you get that spike you see at the end.

Thanks. On that pull the mods were:

Sri, Kamikaze header + dp, cat-back, piggyback

That pull was done the day before I installed my bored intake manifold. Now I'm just waiting for nice weather to quantify the gains of the IM.

I'm using the Auterra Pda dyno.

Yeah I know I should stop before but I always want to see exacly what's going on... so I figured most users would know where the rev limiter kicked in.

i'm getting on the dyno tomorrow. i'm so excited! i'll post my results. (right now i've got an exhaust leak and some minor odds and ends that will effect the results a little bit but hey, after all it is just a set of numbers) i'm looking to get a baseline before i boost.

^Nice, can't wait.

they couldn't get an RPM reading from my car so all i got was AFR and HP readings. i was a little dissappointed. i was hoping for 115 and only hit 108.88 i still have an exhaust leak to fix though. ...not to mention leaning out a little more would help. results were recorded on a DynoJet in a 4th gear pull.

Mods list: CAI, 4g94 P&P Intake Mani, Custom P&P Exhaust Mani, 2.25in Downpipe, 2.25in Cat Back, PB ECU v.1.0, Magnacore Plug Wires, RRM CS Pulley, Clutchmasters Flywheel, Kaaz LSD, RRM Big Bore Fuel Rail.

i'm not going to bother with correcting the AFR's. i don't have the software and it would be deemed useless once i toss EMS in the car. but there's some numbers to start with for me.

mark
:mitsu:

I'm really suprised it's so low. Once the exhaus leak is fixed it would definitaly jump up. What EMS are you getting?

AEM EMS...that won't be till next spring though. i'm more concerned with boosting first. then i can tune that fuel map until i get the AEM in the car...i was talking to the guy who did the dyno and he said if i were to correct the AFR's alone they should yeild 5-10+ ......12.6:1 is pretty rich. i figure between correcting that and fixing my exhaust leak i could HOPEFULLY make 120whp....then again, that's only wishful thinking.

btw, my engine is starting to feel a little.....let's say, tired. it doesn't have the same up-and-go that it used too. the high miles might be started to have an adverse effect (64k) :dunno:

^I have 90k miles but also rebuild engine, dunno if that matters, it still feels fine. You just need a really good tune up.

No, 12.6 is right where you want to be with this engine- the ECU is tuned for 10.5-11 depending on the weather. C'mon man, you've read the posts, you know Boe has seen dudes tune for 13.5 and melt stuff. Don't get greedy. It's a sad fact that this engine does not respond well to basic and even more advanced mods (ported manifolds and fuel tuning for example). Mitsu gave us about as much as they could get out of the G93 by boring it out to 1.998L. Dave at RPW has been saying this since the car came out- even with cam, twin TB, headwork, exhaust, pistons and eManage you're not going to break 160 NA. I don't know how the G69 engine mods but I imagine it's more responsive to basic stuff. Your exhaust leak won't be a miracle solution but might get you to break the 120 mark and it will stop feeling anemic. If you have a test pipe or high flow cat you might want to put the stock cat back on... but you can find the pages and pages of discussion about why that does/does not work- I won't start it again here :)

I really am being sympathetic- check my mods list ;) It shouldn't come as any surprise that I'm not rushing to spend the money do the next mods :lol:

I know this is not really a big discussion thread but I just wanted to throw in me 2c.

Although you custom ported the stock exhaust manifold it is probably still restrictive enough to disallow proper air flow from the engine. You have a whole bunch more air coming in but it still probably doesn't have the room to exit.

With your mods list that is the only thing I see that might hinder performance.

WADAD

my goal is to hit 120whp before boosting. i need to do a really good tune up like greg said. i'm picking up another RRM header and fixing up my leaks. if that doesn't help then so be it. boosting will be next. thanks for the input.

btw, i still have a cat on the car.

you should be able to hit 120whp with a header and a nice tune

What I got from Boe a while ago.

^+1

13.1 and then just work the timing.

I was at the same Dyno day at CNFX on sat. Here is my results.

http://img117.imageshack.us/img117/7...orun0th.th.jpg

Once again no TQ because they could not get a proper rpm reading.

116.57 HP

I only had the Catback, RRM Piggy, and RMR intake at the time.

Im not sure about the AFR. What is Stocih again?

14.7:1 for gasoline

not bad. with a header and a pulley you should be over 120hp/tq

im running lean then huh?

By the looks of it you are running lean.

hmmm.. who is this guy? never saw him around the thread.. and i thought the RRM car is the fastest lancer? or rrm has the fastest lancer on the 1/4 mile?

this guy is pretty old skool. search for his posts. so far highest documented hp lancer. RRM vouches for his car. i think he sold it though.

awww.. yeah i looked at the thread he started about his car.. hmm he sold it forealz? aww that sucks..

Read their sig again... Fastest production kit. Omar's setup isn't a production kit.

thats true.. he built the kit himself huh? mixed parts right?

Yep it's a mix and match kit. I think he gots parts from a whole bunch of companies including Rrm, and Rpw.

whats up i am still here i never sold it yet no buyers
just sitting around maintaing it

i yet to hit the trracks but i believe i am the first to hit 300+ :D
i want to play around with it more cuz AMS want to help make
more power but i am on hold for now wanting to sell it

i reached a goal and spent plenty enough
theres some pics on the forced induction forums i finally posted some
been too long i know sorry

we will see what is to come i been lazy to get a larger intercooler
and custom fab IM then tune on race gas its getting expensive :rolleyes:

I am going to the dyno on saturday, any advice? Its a mustang dyno that can calibrate for dyno jet numbers aswell. What gear is best to pull in, I havent seen an afirmitive answer on this, 3rd or 4th? I should register my weight as 2700 Lbs for it? Should I go on a full tank or half tank of gas?

Any estimates on power? I will be happy with 95-100hp

Performance Mods are:
AEM CAI with K&N
Magnaflow Cat-back (2.25")
DIY Test Pipe
RRM Piggyback V1
Removed Acessorie belt (AC & Power Stearing)

4th gear would be the best and my estimate is 108whp (dynojet #s)

Thanks, Time will tell on the numbers.

Okay Here is my results that Iam sadly happy with.
108.5 WHP
118.5 W Ft/Lbs Tourque
This is a Mustang Dyno

Mods:
AEM CAI with K&N Filter
Magnaflow Cat-Back Exhaust
Test Pipe (custom)
RRM V1 Piggy Back
No A/C No Power Stearing

The guys at the dyno place entered the weight in at 3400, they said it shouldnt make a differance and that is just a standard that is uesd.


https://img53.imageshack.us/img53/363/dyno1at.jpg

Pretty good numbers.

Hopefuly he was right, because that's a 500lbs difference.

Ya I know LOL

i'd say the guy is an idiot. go back there and take him to school. when torque is a measurement of foot-lbs and horsepower is (torque*rpm)/5252, pulling 3400 lbs is gonna give you a higher number. please give him a swift kick in the balls for me. thanks.

3rd gear?

Ha ha ha, well I'm going for Dyno tuning somewhere else in a month or so, I will know the differance then.

bump for more dynos.

I wish you had dyno'd in 3rd

We would have gotten some sort of comparison between my two dynos and yours. Mine sans piggy. The last time I went to the dyno they didn't do a 4th gear pull cause they said it was too long a gear to pull in.

Oh well

And yes I had them do it for 2700 pounds. Did they do an initial pull to measure parasitic loss?

WADAD

It was a 3rd gear pull, unfortunatly they didnt do an initial pull to measure the loss.
I wish i knew the differance the weight was.

Also, they said today that they used the mustang dyno but calibrated it to Dyno Jet numbers. Not sure if thats true or not, nor if its possible. Im really confussed now, my numbers dont really mean anything to me.

Should have gone on a dyno jet and maybe with a wideband.

what will a wideband do for me? (sorry dyno newb here)

Won't do much, it will just show you where exactly you'd have to take out or add fuel to get maximum horespower. And it will show you where you are lean or rich. More info about your car's performance for maybe $15 more. Take a look at my dyno in this thread, on the top of RPM i was too lean and probably lost about 5whp.

dyno numbers only have meaning in two cases, as I see it. 1st- the same car, same dyno, new mod and the dyno measures the change from before. 2nd- to tune for max power based on that dyno but you won't get the same number on another rolling dyno or on an accelerometer based (GtechPro) or computational (Auterra) dyno. Dyno numbers are essentially meaningless when compareing to another vehicle or dyno.

Wideband is useful if you have a way to tune the fuel or timing. You tune for the ideal AFR for your vehicle. For us it's about 12.7 (NA) I don't know what the ideal is for FI; too much leaner and you risk melting stuff if you run your engine at high RPM for a prolonged period (i.e. track day).

Thanks for the info.

is there a way you can you use an equation to correct that now that you know what the TQ is and the weight?

I would have already come up with one if there wasnt too many unknown variables.

Hi I am new here so I think your gona be interest how many hp I took to my

Mirage LS with 4g94 engine block 176hp with 158 torque.

http://img230.imageshack.us/img230/4...993full5zk.jpg

awesome. lets see the dyno sheet.

Screw that- let's see the modification list. 176 from a G94 smells like a nicely tuned stage 1 turbo.

I wish it could be N/A but I know that's impossible.

with deep enough pockets it's probably possible. the car wouldn't be very "streetable" though :crap:

^^ Yeah - you're talking full port and polish, new head, cams, full engine management, higher compression pistons, head gasket, the works! But we'll wait to see what this engine as got.

You're not telling the whole truth. No 5g Mirage LS came with a G94 from the factory, unless swapped, hit with nitro, or banged from a small turbo.

Only 1 G93 owner swapped to a G94 before swapping to an Evo +4 in the US. The 2nd guys hasn't been confirmed. This isn't a cost effective way. You can spec a G93 similar to a G94 like AQ who now owns a RA. Also, there are 2 others with a G15 swapping to a G94, not confirmed again.

I make a swap this cars Come with a G93 1.8L soch engine what I did is uses a G94 of a Lancer OZ rally edition 2003 block is the same has the 2006 Lancers ES,DS
put a G93 head the the pistons are custom made G5 the head have a good work on it but the think here is that engine block have low pistons and a red limit in 6,000.

What I do was use the Mirage ECU that limits 6,800 If you dint want to spend in
pistons buy pistons of mirage LS 1.8L that are high compression I leave you with this
tip. think about it.

Yes is possible is N/A the think here is you need to know the engine analized it.

you can take of it the HP that you want.


My car is a Mirage LS coupe 99 come with a 4g93 engine that is a 1.8L sohc

bored is 81mm with flat pistons.

The 4g94 engine look exactly like the 4g93 the think is here this engine comes with

bored 81.5mm and low pistons.


Here comes the little detail and tip.

What I do was buy 4g93 .40 pistons that are flat put into the 4g94 block use a
4g93 head and the ECU because the 4g93 engine the engine goes to 6,800 and the 4g94 is in 6,000 believed me 800 revolution make a lot of deference in this engine. Buy a American Cam with myown specs obviostly the other thinks like iceman,header,exhaust,fuel regulator have a good job on the head. that all.

I leave you with this video of a event Mirage LS coupe shoot out.

my car is the second one appear make 13.3 with a bad 60ft.

http://www.savefile.com/files/1140399

the 1.8L G93 SOHC is about the same engine as what we have. Pistons compression is 9.5:1, same as ours. Good tip for the 1.5L guys, I suppose. However, the G93 DOHC had 10.5:1 compression

the G92 MIVEC was 11:1 and the G92 SOHC was 10:1 <- same family so they should fit... don't go buying them based on my info, though :) These are the "magic" engines that RPW would have you source to direct drop into your Lancer for maximum upgradability for least initial cost.

GunGrave, it sound slike you made extra work for yourself.... why did you use the G94 block with G93 overbored pistons, con rods, head and ECU? I'm not following how you're using a "G94" engine when it's mostly G93. Was this cheaper (easier?) than boring out and sleeving a G93?

Good work, though.

For mitsus you got the G9 series is like honda with the Bseries, here from where I am the people put G92 head in G93 engine blocks obviosly using the G92 pistons
remember the G94 engine block have develope more torque and the pistons with
the head more compresion that should be my friend,you got torque by the engine block and HP with the little more compression. You can too put the G92 pistons in the G94 engine why the over sized to because .40 in the G93 is 82mm but the G94 block is 81.5 you only gonna bored .20 you gain little more torque and hp in that detail in the G94.

this are the G92 pistons the dohc mivec 1.6L engine you can put to the engine:
http://img158.imageshack.us/img158/1...nmivec14tk.jpg
http://img158.imageshack.us/img158/2...nmivec29gz.jpg

Which head are you using- the single or dual OHC? And which ECU? From your description, the advantage of the G93 ECU is the extra 800 RPM. That's a little scary on the G94 because of the difference in length of the rods- that might be a little too much extra, but I don't know.

I'm definitely taking notes! Thanks for your input.

I am using for now sohc of G93, my goal for now is though the 12 sec with a sohc engine may be later I gonna do a real mitsu hybrid putting G92 head in the g94 engine block for run 12 low or in a future 11 sec. {thumbup}

well done with the build and results the All motor category is really starting to earn respect from those with boosted cars - how are you combating traction problems as I am guessing that to get down to a low 12sec you have been stripping the car down to bare minimum and possibly using slicks what about a LSD

I know with my 4G93 sohc I got 137hp atw with best track time of 15.6...

good work tho

When I had my lancer I had the very same idea of sourcing a G93 ECU and trying it. My mechanic told me that the ECU might not be compatible with the sensors from the G94.

What sensors are you using in your hybrid? The G94 sensors or the G93 sensors ?

I should have tried it but I could never get with KillahB to swap out the ECU's

WADAD

i dynoed 246whp 222wtq with my 97 mirage LS (1.8 4g93) @ 11psi. motor is built from top to bottom. boosting on a t3/t4 .60 trim

^ do you have the dyno sheets? i'd be quite interested to have a look at them; those are good numbers.

Here is the results of the 4g9 series HYbrid I do on my mirage the car we make a change in the pistons and this he got a 4g94 Lancer Rally OZ edition 2003 4g93 sohc engine head of mirage LS can be 97 to 2002 ,American Cam, CP custom Pistons and mitsubishi 97 to 99 eclipse ECU FWD turbo the car is NA we use the ECU so the car move the red limit to 7,500 with that ECU course the ECU fit well in the car but he have few tricks to work the way you want.

He put down we tuned the car with the wrong Sunoco gasoline 176hp and 162 of toque , we try on the track with the correct Sunoco the car run better 1 mile more so we think the car have like 180 we run with street tire BF 15 Drag radials the cars dint have respect with them.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=10_DCBYt5P0


I apologized if I can put the paper of the Dyno because right now I am out of my country , the driver of the car is my friend and tuner Terry.


this is a photo
http://img484.imageshack.us/img484/3509/carrobp9.jpg

What copression are you running in your 4g94?
Could you explain a little bit how you got the eclipse ecu working on your car?
Thanks.

Until now my friend I dint know how my friend tuned the car because I am out of the country he dint that when I was out ,soon I get to my country I tell you for sure.

The pistons are 12.5:0 compresion :mitsu: {thumbup}

Thanks for you reply.
Now I'm kind of stock b/c I want to get the pistons within 2 weeks and I don't know which compression to pick. I know that I can go with 10.5:1 easy but just the way I am, I'm trying to squize as much as I can without going stand-alone. I don't mind using 93 octane.

I'm just trying to find some help and I know you are the GUY since you have a sick ride. Let me know if you can get some info, thanks again.

Ohh and when you stayed with 4g93 ecu at beggining, was your ignitiong timing off?
I have alot off bolt-ons. You name it I have it. My head is done and I only put done 122 whp using S-AFCII (either bad piston rings or valve seals b/c burning oil) Everybody tells me that my ignition timing might be off since I'm using 4g93 ecu on 4g94 engine. Since I have S-AFCII, than I might get Apexi ITC Super Ignition Timing Converter.

My friend the normal timing of the cars is 7 to 8 degrees you can move the sensor to give 15 degrees is where the engine transform , and the sprocker move 6 lines to retard the engine that equivalents to 10 degrees in the cam you will see the car transform. eliminates S AFCII system of the car. The cars no supose to complain if you have the original wires of the 4g93 engine.