My first build.
I like the idea of switching a 9 motor into the 8. Always wanted to do that myself.
Why run an MBC when you're going to tune with a stock ECU? Also, why the stop tech fronts? If you're not going to do some serious road racing, the money would be better spent elsewhere. Besides the bushings, what are you doing suspension-wise? If you don't need to, don't go .4 or even .2 over.
l8r)
Why run an MBC when you're going to tune with a stock ECU? Also, why the stop tech fronts? If you're not going to do some serious road racing, the money would be better spent elsewhere. Besides the bushings, what are you doing suspension-wise? If you don't need to, don't go .4 or even .2 over.
l8r)
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I like the idea of switching a 9 motor into the 8. Always wanted to do that myself.
Why run an MBC when you're going to tune with a stock ECU? Also, why the stop tech fronts? If you're not going to do some serious road racing, the money would be better spent elsewhere. Besides the bushings, what are you doing suspension-wise? If you don't need to, don't go .4 or even .2 over.
l8r)
Why run an MBC when you're going to tune with a stock ECU? Also, why the stop tech fronts? If you're not going to do some serious road racing, the money would be better spent elsewhere. Besides the bushings, what are you doing suspension-wise? If you don't need to, don't go .4 or even .2 over.
l8r)
My bad, thought the StopTech fronts were referring to a BBK, not front rotors. I'd check the rear trailing arm bushing as well. The stocker is pretty crappy and wears out fast.
l8r)
l8r)
As far as the motor build its actually between a 2.2 and 2.3L but rounded up you get 2.3, and the 100mm crank is where you get the stroker term from because it uses a longer stroke. The pins on the pistons I believe sit 3mm higher then stock which effectively drops them down as clearance between the rod and piston is closer. With the effective height drop of the pistons and the extra downstroke from the crank this creates the extra .28 liters or whatever it is. Someone please correct me if I am mistaken. I am doing a similar build-
BR 2.3
FP Black
+1mm nitrite coated valves
supertech dual springs
bronze valve guides
ported and polished head
BR BF 272's
coated SS o2 and exhaust mani
ported intake mani and mil.spec 65mm TB
BR TBE
ID 2000 injectors
BR double pumper
ETS 4" FMIC and piping
AEM EMS
and various other supporting mods with E85
So keep us up to date on how it turns out, mine wont be together for quite a few months..
BR 2.3
FP Black
+1mm nitrite coated valves
supertech dual springs
bronze valve guides
ported and polished head
BR BF 272's
coated SS o2 and exhaust mani
ported intake mani and mil.spec 65mm TB
BR TBE
ID 2000 injectors
BR double pumper
ETS 4" FMIC and piping
AEM EMS
and various other supporting mods with E85
So keep us up to date on how it turns out, mine wont be together for quite a few months..
I like this advice. I am slightly curious as to whether .040" is the largest overbore size advisable for a 4g63 cylinder block? If possible, I would definitely go with first overbore pistons, if at all possible, myself.
Last edited by sparky; May 27, 2011 at 06:28 PM.
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I made a post here in another section asking if .4 was too extreme. A few people said it was because there may be head gasket sealing issues. One guy said he has been running .4 over for a while and beating the hell out of his car without any issues.
So was it determined that you couldn't use .2 over? I had AMS build my engine with 30K miles on it and we used stock bore pistons, not larger-than-stock, so I'm just curious why you or your builder think you need to go one size up.
l8r)
l8r)
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Not really sure honestly. I think my oil pump went out. All I know is the balance shaft in the front bent like a straw cracking the front of the block. Number 1 and 2 piston exploded into a million pieces that couldn't be identified as a piston and I found the top half of #2 rod with the wrist pin stuck inside it still on wedged in between the diff and subframe and the whole back of the block behind 1 and 2 cylinders was blown away.
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Pretty lame reasoning I guess. Just wanted to I guess also, haven't seen anyone run it so was hoping its uncharted waters.
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About time motor is being bored out today!



Crank was supposed to be perfect but, motor came from diapper i'm sorry, dapper dan. And it has to be turned, unsure of how much.
Block is being bored .45 over. Bored? Is that right? Lol. Idk.
Will post pics of when they finish if I can get by there. I know not everyone cares about pics and things like this but this is my build and my thread. I am ecstatic about it all coming together after almost a year of waiting without any car!



Crank was supposed to be perfect but, motor came from diapper i'm sorry, dapper dan. And it has to be turned, unsure of how much.
Block is being bored .45 over. Bored? Is that right? Lol. Idk.
Will post pics of when they finish if I can get by there. I know not everyone cares about pics and things like this but this is my build and my thread. I am ecstatic about it all coming together after almost a year of waiting without any car!
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I wouldn't run the FIC 1650's it's a low z injector and really for a 16v system. If you need that size go with the FIC 1680 and resistor bypass box we carry so you can run the big high z


