tscompusa

iTrader: (31)

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2013 progress - Car is full weight with wing.
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https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/10857487-post131.html

Bad track with poor prep video below:


New track better prep results below in timeslip:




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2012 progress below
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** go to the last few threads for track results of this car. its gone a best of 133.68mph so far on the fp black @ just 32psi placing it in the #6 position for fastest stock appearing car of 2012.

Pictures of the car before working on it:





Previous FMIC install doesn't allow the front bumper to sit flush or fully bolt on, this will be fixed after i reassemble the vehicle.

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First id like to share the stock evo 8/9 rods beside a manley turbo tuff i-beam rod.. tell me you still feel safe pushing your stock rods after seeing this?



Engine assembly information and progress


This is the first engine assembly ive ever done and we are still in the process of doing it. I'm going to share misc information and document as much as i can without being lazy..

All the machine work was performed by JAM in NJ. Everything looks good so far. JAM did a good job.

piston to wall gap was measured by us at roughly .0040 - The digital dial bore gauge crapped out on us (battery died) so we had to resort to using a dial gauge and my micrometer.

(the way you find the PTW clearance is you take the measurement of the actual piston then write it down. next you measure the cylinder bore with your dial bore gauge and find the highest point of measurement in the bore. sit it at this point and zero out your gauge. next you stick the dial bore gauge into a micrometer and adjust the micrometer until the dial bore gauge is zero'ed out. next you take the diameter of the piston and substract it from your cylinder bore findings and just like that you now have found your PTW.)

We filed and gapped the wiseco HD rings at 20 top and 24 bottom. Wiseco said they default recommend .019 and .023, but said .020 and .024 will be fine for a high hp engine.

The oil ring expander gap we left at .010 - wiseco said to leave this one alone.

I'll make a tutorial type deal and document the build in general. it may have lack of pictures for now but i will update this periodically as i proceed.

Here is a picture of squaring the ring into the cylinder.. basically you put the ring in the cylinder then you use the piston to push the ring down and get the piston lined up and even, you dont want to take it past the skirt area of the piston past the wristpin area.



Next once the ring is squared up in the cylinder you take a feeler gauge and check the ring end gap and see if your measurement of choice fits inbetween the gap, if not you must file the ring with your ring filer of choice.



(to be continued) - Next I will share how to install rings on the piston and what i have found that works best and important prepping that must be done in order to safely do so.

After this we will then share how to measure rod bearing and main bearing clearances without plastigage


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misc pics of further progress.. unorganized for now. to busy to spend time making captions for each step.














be sure when installing rods to pistons that the bearing tangs face the exhaust side!





crankshaft endplay within spec.. never passed 0.005"









looks good right? well its not! the rod cap hits the block..

we had to tear down the entire engine and now we have to shave the block
for clearancing..

Thankfully everything is measured and plastigauged, so i can re-assemble within 2hrs or so tops.

Also id like to add.. if you're building an engine and not tightening rods by stretch you're wasting your time.
every rod bolt took a different tq to stretch to a certain target.. torque wrench has to much friction therefore
its next to worthless for good accuracy. however all rod bolts were torqued inbetween 50-60 to meet proper stretch limit.

Rod bolts are the most critical bolts on your build. They need to be able to withstand thousands of psi during engine
operation and if they are not stretched properly they will not offer max clamping force!

also do yourself a favor and use Loctite heavy duty anti seize instead of ARP moly lube for measuring tq to get the
bolts preset. it gives much better tq measurement.

We used tq and stretch, went in graduations of 3-5ft/lbs when we got near the target stretch.

final measurements were as follows:

PTW: .0040"
Rod & Main: .0020"
Top Ring .020"
Bottom Ring: .024"
Rod bolt stretch: .0058" - .0060" (ARP 2000)

HaVoC187

iTrader: (4)

It's about time someone made a tutorial on this.
All this info will definately be helpful for when I build my own engine in the future.
Good luck with the build

5LEEPERISAH23I

iTrader: (23)

this is my car. ill try to remember to take more pictures

fantrman

iTrader: (27)

Subscribing

DavidCLy

nice....gl with build

tscompusa

iTrader: (31)

updated with more pics.. next thing we do is put piston/rods in engine then plastigage rod bearing to confirm physical rod clearances found meet plastigage spec and to confirm tq on rod bolts we want for desired clearances.

tscompusa

iTrader: (31)

more stuff updated.. and im officially very angry at JAM. we assembled everything and the block was never notched!!!!!!!!! hopefully jam gives us some $ back for missing such a critical step in the machining process.

What this means is, we finished assembly and rotated it and the rod cap hit the block! .. the 4g64 requires clearancing.. this is just something that was overlooked and shouldn't have been.

SDevo13

iTrader: (6)

I told you they were shady

Good luck getting some $$ back from them. Subscribed for the excuses from them.

CurseDSM

iTrader: (3)

Tom I told you a while ago as well JAM sucked.

project_skyline

iTrader: (30)

Why bad motor? Because JAM.

Seriously, you used JAM and are surprised?

CurseDSM

iTrader: (3)

I am sure the motor will be fine its the machine work that they paid for that they didn't get is what he is mad about.

CurseDSM

iTrader: (3)

I know Tom is doing the best he can with what he has and I am sure just like everything else you will be happy when it is all said and done. I myself and looking forward to see how it turns out

tscompusa

iTrader: (31)

my customer used jam.. lol. everything else looks good, but ya this is definitely a game breaker. as soon as the crank stopped turning my heart dropped. i knew exactly what it was and told Stephen and he was like no way.. i was like you wanna bet? look for it and you'll see it hitting.

sure as **** it hits on cyl 3.

now they need to compensate me for the time it took to tear it down after we had it all assembled real nice.

tscompusa

iTrader: (31)

that's what hes insinuating.. he is saying its all done right, but its still wrong.. why? because jam .. lol.

Hopefully jam makes it right. its just an honest mistake.. it happens. but we definitely need to be compensated for our time and lack of machine work received.

n2oiroc

iTrader: (33)

while its apart, make sure that the thrust bearings are in the correct way, it seems a few shops have installed them in the wrong way with the oil groove on the block side instead of the crank side.