see i read some stuff regarding the 4.11 stuff wearing out fast and so forth from curt brown.

what you just said seems like the smartest route to exist.. attaining the displacement and controlling the rpm's with final drive. but i think your final drive really loses lots of response on the street since the gears are so much longer now.

i have not driven or got a ride in a 4.0 or 4.11 so i dont know personally, just going by what im seeing no the forum.

my next combo will be a 2.4LR probably. i almost last minute switched to a 100mm crank but held myself back lol.

goal wise im not sure. it did 10.8 @ 133 with a fp black with atleast 10.7 or 10.6 in it, so id say a 9 sec pass would be my goal on a 3586R with a tial vband.

your numbers are very impressive.

 

Lots of good info being thrown around in this thread! Hurry up Tom!

 

Just came across your thread. Sorry to hear about the carnage. The fuel system is the only thing that worries me on my car, and this is a perfect example of why. tephra's v7 option to pull boost on lean AFR seems like a very worthwhile feature. I might have to finally go with a tephra v7 just to get this feature.

Any word on the pumps or the Hobbs switch?

 

The pumps are at kinsler fuel injection right now being flow tested and the FPR is being tested there as well.

The pressure switch did seem faulty. I was manually kicking it on and off by pushing something inside it and sometimes it would not kick on when being pushed and sometimes it sounded weird like it was burning up / crackling.

Since then i had BR send me a new pressure switch setup, and this time thye changed the switch out for a new model. I looked up the specs on this new model, and this one can support enough amps to run right off the battery. its a PSF103. http://www.designflexswitches.com/switches/psf103.php

Im glad i had them send a new switch or i wouldnt have known they revised their kit. this switch looks very well made and im hoping its more reliable then the other one. although the other one lasted 5 years lol.

I am very interested in seeing how the walbros come back after being flow tested. I have the relief valve pushed in on both of them.

Ya that option does seem nice. It goes by volts. so i suppose it would be easy to setup. it could have saved me damage im sure.

 

Sorry to see your loss Tom....man that Turbo Tuff opened your block up like a tin of sardines. Insane.

Funny thing is I am about to start a build myself with English Racing. Been texting Aaron like a maniac the last few weeks. Similar parts to your build....cept I am doing a 100mm k1, 156 r&r I-beams, and the HD2 Wisecos. Gonna stuff a 4.11 in my trans, and see how crazy we can get my ball bearing Black to get before going kill with a t3 next year. Following this thread closely.

 

Thank you, seems the combo works well together. I really want to put a 66 turbine wheel or a 6466 but for right now I love how the combo works so I'm leaving it alone. Only thing I'm doing performance wise is opening the exhaust up. Only reason I'm going bigger is to drop weight with aluminum so I might as well and see if it picks anything up. At 35-36 psi it stopped making power on the dyno, now on the track it picked up a few mph bumping up to 38 psi above 60 mph. In coming air is just one of the things a dyno can't replicate I suppose.

I think your goals are very achievable depending on weight.

I have no issues with the 4.11. With the tq my care makes and where it makes power its a blast to drive on the street and interstate is a joy. Personally I wouldn't run anything other than the oem 4.11. The other stuff I won't touch.

I set a goal and did the leg work to find out what it would take to achieve that goal. The 2.2 should be a lot of fun and with the 3586 it'll go 9s.

 

I love the engine combo! Great choice on the crank, rods, and pistons.

Personally I would get a new cylinder head. Excessive heat + Al = no dice.

Sry about the carnage, congrats on the new build.

Mychailo & Tom...

I use an rpm limit in the vipec and I compare fuel pressure to boost pressure. If the fuel pressure drops 10 kpa below what it should be the engine cuts spark & fuel.

It works too! Helped save a 675 whp Supra from inadequate pumps! I run it on my car as well. Better to have a pull aborted than to melt your ish down!

 

Yeah, I thought about setting up the same thing when I installed my fuel pressure sensor a few years ago. Ultimately, it seems like keying off of lean AFR will catch more issues. I could tell the ECU to cut fuel as well as cut boost.

 

sorry for being late to the party & the fatality...

but when measuring bearing shells, they sell a ~0.2000" thick ball bearing & this bearing gets retained onto the anvil by a small rubber thingy that allows the ball to stick thru while keeping it attatched to the anvil & not falling on the ground.

I will try to locate a place that sells them.

without a radiius'd mic, its the only way to really measure a bearing shell in a reasonable amount of time.

 

Just seen this build... in for updates.

Gl

 

im building a temporary 2.4L while i build my billet 2.2LR.

so if anything wants to fail it will fail on the crappy 2.4 test dummy. that engine will just consist of stock crank, 150mm straight beam turbo tuff rods, wiseco hd 1400 9.7:1 pistons, etc.

so im gonna put the head & fuel system through testing first on this 2.4 im building temp. im also going to see how much abuse a 2.4 can really withstand also. im going to rev it to 9k a few times. im curious what happens.. if it grenades it grenades.

not decided on turbo yet.. but its something thats gonna be capable of around 90lb/min.

im building a retarded machine at first for testing purposely and will put it through hell and back.

 

Awesome in for results, interested in seeing how the standard 2.4 holds up to the abuse you plan on putting it threw GL

 

Tscompusa so what is the exact equation to build a 2.2l HR using a OEM carank? My block has 156k on it and I have the money to do a block and built tranny and Im confused on what the best way to achieve the perfect rod/stroke ratio is for a higher revving block...like you I want high revs and displacement. I already bought gsc s2's, gsc hi lift springs and retainers and map h11s for high boost high rev.

Good luck on the build btw, in for updates

 

you cant build a 2.2L with a stock crank.

has to be 92mm or 94mm. stock cranks are only 88mm or 100mm.

 

ya you see that lol. the rod barely bent and managed to axe out the entire half the iron block. those are strong rods!

Ya wiseco makes some nice stuff. you cant go wrong with R&R and wiseco/k1.

I'm gonna make it so i can achieve my goal easier then i should. i am going to put the trailer to good use this year. i might look into 4.11 in the future but for now im good. i just had the trans rebuilt so its all fresh with billet stuff.

THanks Eric. Ya the 2.2 is the ultimate displacement i feel for street/strip/road course etc. it will still respond like a 2.3 but be much safer reving it higher out the top end.

I am running it on another engine first i build to temporary work bugs out before i go straight to the 2.2L. The head is done, jsut waiting for it to come back now i will share the repair pics once i get it back.

nice i like that idea how you're monitoring the afr. i definitely need to get some kind of fail safe setup for future.


Ya i noticed that when i was measuring i was like uh hmm this isnt right .. lol. so they make attachments for the mic to be able to measure the bearing thickness or do i need a different micrometer with different ends? i did get the main's with the dial bore gauge.

i checked the site it said 0.0586" i was like uh no? lol. the bearings sure didnt grow! lol.