Evodan2004 has lost his mind part 3. The new changes and goals for 2013.
Because a light weight subframe was not light weight enough.
I spoke to diamond a few weeks ago and requested if he would mind building me a lighter weight subframe then the already light weight one. So Dan went into some thinking and came up with what we are calling a "drag" version of the subframe. Please keep in mind. This is for minimal street use and mainly drag racing only. It is NOT for full on track cars that make turns. If your looking for one that can cover every type of racing then get the standard subframe. It is 3lbs lighter then the current one. My standard was 16.3 and the new drag version is 13.3. I am sure he could have gone even lighter yet but this is as light as he wants to go and feels comfortable with his name on it. Basically it is exactly the same piece as the standard version but it uses smaller diameter tubing and thinner wall thickness. Some may call me crazy but hey. The opportunity came up and I took it. Here are some pics
Got the standard one out
Side by side
And here is the drag version all ready to be re installed.
I spoke to diamond a few weeks ago and requested if he would mind building me a lighter weight subframe then the already light weight one. So Dan went into some thinking and came up with what we are calling a "drag" version of the subframe. Please keep in mind. This is for minimal street use and mainly drag racing only. It is NOT for full on track cars that make turns. If your looking for one that can cover every type of racing then get the standard subframe. It is 3lbs lighter then the current one. My standard was 16.3 and the new drag version is 13.3. I am sure he could have gone even lighter yet but this is as light as he wants to go and feels comfortable with his name on it. Basically it is exactly the same piece as the standard version but it uses smaller diameter tubing and thinner wall thickness. Some may call me crazy but hey. The opportunity came up and I took it. Here are some pics
Got the standard one out
Side by side
And here is the drag version all ready to be re installed.
My buddy local is selling his VERY lightly used electric power steering kit, maybe 500 miles or less. I think it is for sale on evom, if you are interested I can PM him to get your lowest price. I would have bought it but I just deleted PS, no point in keeping it the car will be going straight 75% of the time.
My buddy local is selling his VERY lightly used electric power steering kit, maybe 500 miles or less. I think it is for sale on evom, if you are interested I can PM him to get your lowest price. I would have bought it but I just deleted PS, no point in keeping it the car will be going straight 75% of the time.
Subframe is back on the car.
It would be VERY easy to come to with a different rear engine mount that connected to the subframe. This would eliminate the steel bracket that goes over the steering rack, the dog bone link with the bushings, and the 2 piece trans bracket. I swear, that's how mitsu even intended to do it as there are already threaded mounting bosses on the trans that would work perfect for it. Seemed like I added it up at one point and I was thinking it would save about 8 pounds.
Also, go to a manual rack and ditch the power steering for another 13 pounds. I'm running M/S on a 2400 pound car with a 14.5:1 steering ratio and it's very manageable even with 7.5* of caster. The Evo with 3.5* of caster and a steering ratio of 16:1 would be nothing in comparison.
Also, go to a manual rack and ditch the power steering for another 13 pounds. I'm running M/S on a 2400 pound car with a 14.5:1 steering ratio and it's very manageable even with 7.5* of caster. The Evo with 3.5* of caster and a steering ratio of 16:1 would be nothing in comparison.
Last edited by 03whitegsr; Dec 30, 2014 at 12:21 PM.
It would be VERY easy to come to with a different rear engine mount that connected to the subframe. This would eliminate the steel bracket that goes over the steering rack, the dog bone link with the bushings, and the 2 piece trans bracket. I swear, that's how mitsu even intended to do it as there are already threaded mounting bosses on the trans that would work perfect for it. Seemed like I added it up at one point and I was thinking it would save about 8 pounds.
Also, go to a manual rack and ditch the power steering for another 13 pounds. I'm running M/S on a 2400 pound car with a 14.5:1 steering ratio and it's very manageable even with 7.5* of caster. The Evo with 3.5* of caster and a steering ratio of 16:1 would be nothing in comparison.
Also, go to a manual rack and ditch the power steering for another 13 pounds. I'm running M/S on a 2400 pound car with a 14.5:1 steering ratio and it's very manageable even with 7.5* of caster. The Evo with 3.5* of caster and a steering ratio of 16:1 would be nothing in comparison.
As for MS Idk. I been in an Evo with MS and I hated every bit of it. How do you change the ratio on a OEM rack? I was just gonna get the electric setup.
New product. As you know I deleted my thermostat when I converted to a custom electric water pump setup. This left me with a big ugly thermostat housing. It needed to go but I needed something different then what is currently offered. So I contacted frontline fabrication and explained what I was looking for. I wanted something small and to be OEM sensor friendly. So we came up with this. It is 16AN in size and Uses a fragola 16AN banjo fitting. I had the sensors angled in the back to help hide them for a cleaner finish. It also lines up perfectly with my upper rad fitting for a nice straight shot. Next on my list is a custom engine harness and some other things.
