doncarbone's '03 OZ Rally -> '06 Ralliart engine swap
May 6, 2013, 06:41 PM
#91
don't think there are any tuners nearby, imports in general aren't that popular around where i live...is it possible to send out my ECU and have someone flash it, i dont feel confident enough hooking it up through OBD-II and manipulating values myself 
does anyone on the forums accept these types of jobs?
does anyone on the forums accept these types of jobs?
May 6, 2013, 08:00 PM
#92
don't think there are any tuners nearby, imports in general aren't that popular around where i live...is it possible to send out my ECU and have someone flash it, i dont feel confident enough hooking it up through OBD-II and manipulating values myself
does anyone on the forums accept these types of jobs?
does anyone on the forums accept these types of jobs?
May 6, 2013, 08:46 PM
#93
don't think there are any tuners nearby, imports in general aren't that popular around where i live...is it possible to send out my ECU and have someone flash it, i dont feel confident enough hooking it up through OBD-II and manipulating values myself
does anyone on the forums accept these types of jobs?
does anyone on the forums accept these types of jobs?
May 7, 2013, 04:41 AM
#94
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https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/04...eferences.html
Drive-by-wire means you have no mechanical control over the engine's controls. It is derived from the aviation term "fly-by-wire" that appeared when they changed hydraulics controls over electronic controls. This setup eases the use of other technology/safeguards.
Hackish has a retune for the 4G69 ECU, try him also.
May 7, 2013, 07:36 AM
#95
I think it'd be more worth your time and money to just stick with the 4g69 head. With the 4g63 mivec head you need an ECU replacement and wiring harness. I seriously looked into this a while back because it was easier to tune a 4g63 ECU than the 4g69 ECU.
There is only one person who has cracked the 4g69 ECU and thats why RRM and Ripp both used piggy back systems, they couldnt crack the ECU. However now Hackish and OttRalliart over at UV Tune in Canada can help you reflash your ECU and you get the tuning software so you can take it to any decent tuner and have it fine tuned. Or do it yourself if you'd like. There is a lot of information on the reflash in the Ralliart Forums.
And a LOT of 4g63 parts work for the 4g69 as xmaster has said. The 4g69 is basically and Open deck, bigger bored, SOHC, stroker version of the 4g63. Rods and oversized pistons for a 4g63 will bolt right into the 4g69 along with a ton of other stuff. Check out that thread for more details.
There is only one person who has cracked the 4g69 ECU and thats why RRM and Ripp both used piggy back systems, they couldnt crack the ECU. However now Hackish and OttRalliart over at UV Tune in Canada can help you reflash your ECU and you get the tuning software so you can take it to any decent tuner and have it fine tuned. Or do it yourself if you'd like. There is a lot of information on the reflash in the Ralliart Forums.
And a LOT of 4g63 parts work for the 4g69 as xmaster has said. The 4g69 is basically and Open deck, bigger bored, SOHC, stroker version of the 4g63. Rods and oversized pistons for a 4g63 will bolt right into the 4g69 along with a ton of other stuff. Check out that thread for more details.
May 7, 2013, 11:04 AM
#97
The 4G69 can already use much of the 4G63 internals. There is a thread about it here :
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/04...eferences.html
Drive-by-wire means you have no mechanical control over the engine's controls. It is derived from the aviation term "fly-by-wire" that appeared when they changed hydraulics controls over electronic controls. This setup eases the use of other technology/safeguards.
Hackish has a retune for the 4G69 ECU, try him also.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/04...eferences.html
Drive-by-wire means you have no mechanical control over the engine's controls. It is derived from the aviation term "fly-by-wire" that appeared when they changed hydraulics controls over electronic controls. This setup eases the use of other technology/safeguards.
Hackish has a retune for the 4G69 ECU, try him also.
I think it'd be more worth your time and money to just stick with the 4g69 head. With the 4g63 mivec head you need an ECU replacement and wiring harness. I seriously looked into this a while back because it was easier to tune a 4g63 ECU than the 4g69 ECU.
There is only one person who has cracked the 4g69 ECU and thats why RRM and Ripp both used piggy back systems, they couldnt crack the ECU. However now Hackish and OttRalliart over at UV Tune in Canada can help you reflash your ECU and you get the tuning software so you can take it to any decent tuner and have it fine tuned. Or do it yourself if you'd like. There is a lot of information on the reflash in the Ralliart Forums.
And a LOT of 4g63 parts work for the 4g69 as xmaster has said. The 4g69 is basically and Open deck, bigger bored, SOHC, stroker version of the 4g63. Rods and oversized pistons for a 4g63 will bolt right into the 4g69 along with a ton of other stuff. Check out that thread for more details.
There is only one person who has cracked the 4g69 ECU and thats why RRM and Ripp both used piggy back systems, they couldnt crack the ECU. However now Hackish and OttRalliart over at UV Tune in Canada can help you reflash your ECU and you get the tuning software so you can take it to any decent tuner and have it fine tuned. Or do it yourself if you'd like. There is a lot of information on the reflash in the Ralliart Forums.
And a LOT of 4g63 parts work for the 4g69 as xmaster has said. The 4g69 is basically and Open deck, bigger bored, SOHC, stroker version of the 4g63. Rods and oversized pistons for a 4g63 will bolt right into the 4g69 along with a ton of other stuff. Check out that thread for more details.
Visited their YouTube channel, their cars are insane lol, thanks for the info!
May 8, 2013, 06:35 PM
#98
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Not 100% the extra cam has any separate sensors, maybe an evo guy could chime in here.
From what I know, the 4G69 ECU would see no difference between both heads.
The extra cam exists mainly for better air velocity control at all rpms.
Basically, it wouldn't be for gains, but for better control over gases going in/out of the engine. At this point, it's a question of needing an extra cam (for example, to push through the 400hp barrier), not wanting one.
If you are looking for gains, a turbo, supercharger or even nitrous would end up being cheaper and netting WAY more hps.
I still like the idea and being a future mechanical engineer with quite a few builds under my belt, can see it as a possible project. If you don't have the intention of doing it yourself, you might be looking into the worst money pit project in the history of humanity.
Also, from about half an hour of research : Good luck finding an Evo IX head.
May 8, 2013, 08:28 PM
#99
Once again. .... I still think you do not need a different ecu and wiring harness to switch to a 4g63 mivec head. Just like in the Honda world I think the Sohc mivec harness and ecu can control the Dohc mivec head. Like I said , this or you'll be the start of the Frankenstein engine builds for the Ralliart like the Honda world. Should be fun!!!!
May 8, 2013, 09:16 PM
#100
The 4G69 ECU already has provision for the MIVEC controls as we all know.
Not 100% the extra cam has any separate sensors, maybe an evo guy could chime in here.
From what I know, the 4G69 ECU would see no difference between both heads.
The extra cam exists mainly for better air velocity control at all rpms.
Basically, it wouldn't be for gains, but for better control over gases going in/out of the engine. At this point, it's a question of needing an extra cam (for example, to push through the 400hp barrier), not wanting one.
If you are looking for gains, a turbo, supercharger or even nitrous would end up being cheaper and netting WAY more hps.
I still like the idea and being a future mechanical engineer with quite a few builds under my belt, can see it as a possible project. If you don't have the intention of doing it yourself, you might be looking into the worst money pit project in the history of humanity.
Also, from about half an hour of research : Good luck finding an Evo IX head.
Not 100% the extra cam has any separate sensors, maybe an evo guy could chime in here.
From what I know, the 4G69 ECU would see no difference between both heads.
The extra cam exists mainly for better air velocity control at all rpms.
Basically, it wouldn't be for gains, but for better control over gases going in/out of the engine. At this point, it's a question of needing an extra cam (for example, to push through the 400hp barrier), not wanting one.
If you are looking for gains, a turbo, supercharger or even nitrous would end up being cheaper and netting WAY more hps.
I still like the idea and being a future mechanical engineer with quite a few builds under my belt, can see it as a possible project. If you don't have the intention of doing it yourself, you might be looking into the worst money pit project in the history of humanity.
Also, from about half an hour of research : Good luck finding an Evo IX head.
Once again. .... I still think you do not need a different ecu and wiring harness to switch to a 4g63 mivec head. Just like in the Honda world I think the Sohc mivec harness and ecu can control the Dohc mivec head. Like I said , this or you'll be the start of the Frankenstein engine builds for the Ralliart like the Honda world. Should be fun!!!!
i just wanna drive :'(
May 20, 2013, 02:29 PM
#101
Update here...some new work to happen over the coming weeks:
1) Body kit is on the way from Accolade (Body-Kit.com)
after a few weeks of no response from them following my bank wire, I suspected maybe I'd been scammed, and searching around the forums revealed a pretty unsettling history surrounding accolade and their business exploits...but after a dead period, finally out of nowhere I receive a bill of lading and the shipment is on the way, confirmed to arrive sometime early June. I'll be sure to take pics once it arrives and give some details on fitment
2) I will not be painting
Other than fixing a small dent and some scratches on the passenger side door that came with the car when I bought it, I won't be doing any body work or painting the car. Instead I'm doing a full matte black vinyl wrap in Hexis vinyl. Hexis vinyl looks similar to the popular 3M 1080 vinyl but is thicker, doesn't require an adhesive primer for tight corners, and they claim it should last outdoors for up to 10 years. I'll be installing it at a Sign/Wrap business in town who employs a certified vinyl wrap installer (3M certified but he is familiar and comfortable using Hexis)...this 'pro guy' will take care of the tough contours like the front and rear bumpres, and myself and another installer there will take care of the easy bits like the hood, roof, doors etc... I'm looking forward to it, I will get a first hand look at how this stuff is done and will probably be able to answer a lot of questions people have about this.
3) Tein Coilovers, Brakes, Bushings, HIDs and Wheels/Tires will be installed in approximately 3-4 weeks from now.
Mechanic is taking a much deserved holiday and will be back to help me out with the rest when he's home. I'll be driving the car to and from work during those 3 weeks and will have lots of time to get used to the tough clutch. I'll wear out my stock tires and brakes until they're replaced in a month
4) Future plans:
- Turbo!
1) Body kit is on the way from Accolade (Body-Kit.com)
after a few weeks of no response from them following my bank wire, I suspected maybe I'd been scammed, and searching around the forums revealed a pretty unsettling history surrounding accolade and their business exploits...but after a dead period, finally out of nowhere I receive a bill of lading and the shipment is on the way, confirmed to arrive sometime early June. I'll be sure to take pics once it arrives and give some details on fitment
2) I will not be painting
Other than fixing a small dent and some scratches on the passenger side door that came with the car when I bought it, I won't be doing any body work or painting the car. Instead I'm doing a full matte black vinyl wrap in Hexis vinyl. Hexis vinyl looks similar to the popular 3M 1080 vinyl but is thicker, doesn't require an adhesive primer for tight corners, and they claim it should last outdoors for up to 10 years. I'll be installing it at a Sign/Wrap business in town who employs a certified vinyl wrap installer (3M certified but he is familiar and comfortable using Hexis)...this 'pro guy' will take care of the tough contours like the front and rear bumpres, and myself and another installer there will take care of the easy bits like the hood, roof, doors etc... I'm looking forward to it, I will get a first hand look at how this stuff is done and will probably be able to answer a lot of questions people have about this.
3) Tein Coilovers, Brakes, Bushings, HIDs and Wheels/Tires will be installed in approximately 3-4 weeks from now.
Mechanic is taking a much deserved holiday and will be back to help me out with the rest when he's home. I'll be driving the car to and from work during those 3 weeks and will have lots of time to get used to the tough clutch. I'll wear out my stock tires and brakes until they're replaced in a month
4) Future plans:
- Turbo!
Last edited by doncarbone; May 20, 2013 at 02:31 PM.
May 22, 2013, 09:18 PM
#102
Ran into a bit of a snag here, wondering if anyone who's been following my build can help me out.
ECU says there is an error with O2 sensor. To be expected as we have nowhere (as far as we can tell) to plug the wire from the O2 sensor into the harness that leads to the ECU.
There is a cable that comes through the floor from the O2 sensor (post-cat) that must plug in somewhere but we can't find where the hell it goes? Any ideas?
Is it possible that my ECU is from a 2006 which looks for an O2 sensor, but the 2004 harness that I have hooks up to an ECU that doesn't look for this same sensor (ie: NO O2 sensor??)?
Pic is of the wire coming through the floor that needs to be plugged in to get rid of the engine light.
ECU says there is an error with O2 sensor. To be expected as we have nowhere (as far as we can tell) to plug the wire from the O2 sensor into the harness that leads to the ECU.
There is a cable that comes through the floor from the O2 sensor (post-cat) that must plug in somewhere but we can't find where the hell it goes? Any ideas?
Is it possible that my ECU is from a 2006 which looks for an O2 sensor, but the 2004 harness that I have hooks up to an ECU that doesn't look for this same sensor (ie: NO O2 sensor??)?
Pic is of the wire coming through the floor that needs to be plugged in to get rid of the engine light.
May 24, 2013, 10:11 PM
#103
Fixed the issue, wire was hidden we had to take half the dash out again to uncover it, bit of a stupid oversight on our part..but no more engine light so all good.
There is a concern, however, when we analyze through OBD II - saying it is looking for o2 sensor 1 (which is for the front)...but as far as we can tell, there ISN'T a o2 sensor pre-cat on the Ralliart? Can someone shed some light on this?
Thanks,
There is a concern, however, when we analyze through OBD II - saying it is looking for o2 sensor 1 (which is for the front)...but as far as we can tell, there ISN'T a o2 sensor pre-cat on the Ralliart? Can someone shed some light on this?
Thanks,