What's up my name is William and this is the write up for my EVO 8 aka War Machine! The goal I had in mind was to have a daily driver/weekend warrior (autocross mainly).

Quick, and dependable.

All mods were performed by myself and a few buddies and the car was tuned by Vlad @ National Speed in Wilmington, NC. Car made 371whp and 311tq.


Current mods:

Engine:

Garrett 3071R turbocharger
ETS tubular manifold
GSC titanium springs and retainers
S2 cams
Turbo back exhaust
ARP head studs
ID 1000cc injectors
Walbro pump
Perrin intake
Intercooler, pipes
Synapse diverter valve
Hallman manual boost controller
ETS lightweight battery kit
Quartermaster clutch and flywheel (was already in the car, seems to hold fine)

Brakes:

Slotted rotors
Ferodo pads
SS lines
Motul 600 fluid

Interior:

Prosport gauges
HKS turbo timer
SSL leather Recaro seats
OEM shift knob
Shifter base bushings
Harness bar
"Evolution" cluster badge

The last big thing on my list is adjustable coilovers...maybe next summer.

So when I bought the car about 2 years ago, I fixed a few things and went and got it tuned right away and it made 340whp and 280tq with the few mods it came with. I drove it around for a while, competed in a couple autox's, and decided I wanted to move up to the next power level; have the perfect daily driver that could also be competitive at racing events. I didn't want to sacrifice too much drivability, so I know I didn't want to do another full build.

After a little research and help from National, I decided upon a Garrett turbo setup with cams and valvetrain. The turbo is stock frame, and fits with barely any modification at all. After tuning with the new setup I can say this car is definitely the most perfect and fun EVO I could want. There's room for a bit more power but I like where it's at honestly. It runs pretty hard, plenty enough for my purposes.

Here's everything that went on when I started this build 2 weeks prior to being tuned (the heat was on! lol) This is a list of things to help others along and hopefully avoid pitfalls. God help you if your bolts are rusty underneath.

1) First things first, got all the stuff out of the way like radiator, battery, strut brace, ect.

2) Next, my buddies and I took the head off. I took it to a machine shop, praying that I would have it back in less than a week. I let them go ahead and put my new valve springs and retainers in, they checked the valves and sealing, decked it, cleaned it up and had it back actually on time which I couldn't believe.

3) We did timing belt and pulleys, balancer belt and pulleys, water pump, head gasket job, replaced any and all gaskets associated with what we were working on and then some. Broke the little square hole that is on the side of the accessory belt tensioner, the one you have to stick a tool in and rotate downward to put slack on the acc. belt. If this happens to you, have fun getting that belt on. I ordered a new arm lol.

4) All fluids changed, coolant, oil, transmission fluid, transfer case fluid, rear diff fluid. Just seemed like a good time to do it.

5) When you go to set your timing, make sure you lock your cam gears together, I didn't do this the first time. I set my timing, and even rotated it and it was fine and lined up every 3 rotations. But the exhaust cam fell forward by a tooth when it was started up and then had to be re-timed. There is a special tool for this.

6) Relieved fuel system pressure at the pump. My car already came with a Walbro pump from the previous owner, but I still needed to change out my injectors. (BEWARE! If you ARE changing out your pump, I recommend you be extra careful and use some type of penetrating oil when loostening the 6 nuts that hold the bracket on the fuel pump hanger. When you pull your back seat up and see those 6 studs sticking up, remember what I told you! lol...I broke 2 of mine off. I need to go back and do a permanent fix on that later. And another thing, I didn't know that when you order the injectors, you need to also order separately the connector adaptors so the injectors will snap into your harness.

7) Turbo install: I'm the type of person who likes to replace everything I touch when building/modding. I went ahead and ordered a pack of new exhaust studs/nuts/washers. Every single one of my old ones came right out with little effort, and the new ones went right in, but make sure you chase the threads first to be on the safe side. As for the turbo, it was made to fit exactly except that the OEM oil return line to the pan has to be modified. Only took like 10 minutes and that included me having to drag out my dremel tool. Also, be sure to prime your turbo before you do your first start up. AND MAKE SURE you have the 2 little O-rings that go where the oil return line bolts to the pan. IT WILL LEAK WITHOUT IT. Ask me how I know.

I know this is a lot of s@#& to read but if I think of anything I left out i'll put it in later.

And now, some EVO p*rn..........shhhhhhhhhhh









Close up of the new Garrett bolted up to the ETS manifold




Cylinder head all done with cams and springs in it

 

IMO, with this turbo it would be better to relocate the oil feed line to the oil filter housing instead of using the oem point on the cylinder head.

 

That turbo manifold is gorgeous. Props to you for this build, can't wait for more updates!

- Renato

 

Where about are you in Raleigh? I live near the CrossRoads Ford Dealership.

So running 93 oct the car made 371whp on National Speeds Dynojet? I'll be honest, it should definitely be over 400whp. What psi was it tuned for?

When you get a chance, check out the local thread...

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/so...area-meet.html

 

I just installed it by the book. Doesn't seem to have any issues, but can anyone elaborate why it's better to move that feed line?


Thanks, ETS manifolds rock. Perfect fitment, ship time, ect. No complaints there. Looks solid.

 

I actually live outside of Raleigh I just put that for my profile on here. Go there at least once a week though.


It was tuned at 23 lbs...This turbo is rated for 450 crank horsepower, which, correct me if i'm wrong...but 375 wheel just about equates to 450 or close to it in crank numbers right?

 

ATP's website calls for the oil feed line to go to the head, so you should be fine. Other stock frame turbos, that were journal bearing, needed to have the oil feed line come from the filter housing for higher oil pressure. Feed off the head is a bit less psi but fine for ball bearing turbos.

 

23psi??! Come on man! I ran 25psi on my stock long block/stock turbo Evo 9 5+ yrs ago & made a consistent 340whp on a mustang dyno in Fayetteville. You should have plenty of fuel to run 25-27psi on your setup. You should easily be making over 400whp on National Speeds Dyno with this turbo. Check out the below link of dyno results from your turbo on ATP's website...


http://www.atpturbo.com/root/release...H_LOW_DYNO.gif


And yes I know they were running e85 but they were running only 20psi & made 400whp+...

 

06MR is right that car should be doing alot better than that, Thats like stock evo9 turbo power..........also your feed line on the head is just fine

 

I was told that by turning it up anything over where it's set would not benefit me any more and to leave it right where it's at...that my limiting factor was fuel. I don't know why they would not want me to go higher unless there was a reason or some other limiting factor such as safety.

 

When I initially went to them trying to determine which setup I wanted to go with, I specifically mentioned that my goal was anything over 400whp, and I was told the 3071r and some s2 cams would do it. I was a bit curious when it fell short just a few hp...and kinda wondering how that happened. I was told to go any higher I would need e85.

 

well you sir were told wrong....

 

Is there anyone or anywhere you have seen where somebody with my same setup actually made over 4?

 

Yes basically every one we have ever had here made right at or just over 400 and on a mustang dyno which is typically 10-12% lower than a dynojet. Your 370 on that jet is around 330-335 here which is stock turbo bolt on tunes my friend.

 

I will try to find out more from the shop and see what they have to say about it.

Just for the record the car runs great, but when I was told it was ready I too was expecting to hear that it was running around 26-27lbs but instead was told it was set at 23. I figured it would at least be higher than where I left it with the stock setup...I wasn't sure since it was a stock frame turbo...