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Aug 22nd she gets dropped off at The Shop in Norwalk CT
Started as a standard 2.0 build then quickly escalated to a 2.3
Mods will consist of the Following. Pics to come soon
2.3 Stroker Built by Godwin and Singer
FFWD Vader Aluminum Rods
Manley Knife Edge Crank balanced to 9500
ACL Tri-MEtal Bearings
Wiseco 1400hd2 10:5:1
Ams balance shaft
Bushur Baffled oil pan
All Special Coated etc
Curt Brown Built and ported head w/L19 arp studs
GSC S3 Billet Cams
Aem Cam Gears
AMS F1-I intake manifold with MAP phenolic heat spacer
Boomba 75mm TB
PST One Piece Carbon Fiber Driveshaft
Stock trans w/7k miles
TRE Built Transfer Case
With all the goodies from John
Full Race Custom forward facing EFR 9180 turbo kit (Coated Black)
2 Tial MV-R Wastegates
Borg Warner EFR 9180 1.05 ar EW
Greddy Titanium Exhaust
Full race Custom test pipe
STM Small battery Kit
Not sure what kind of power I will be looking at, but i will be taking her on the street and I want a lot of people to see my rear tails. any thoughts or comments are appreciated as long as they are constructive.
Last edited by 03Roush2; Sep 15, 2015 at 04:02 PM.
That is an impressive build! You will love the way the Infinity drives.
Any thoughts on going with a taller final drive or larger street tires? Those 245-40-18's and 2.3 will make for some short gearing/tirespin. A 4.3 is a 5% change and 4.11 is a 10% change. A slightly taller gear or tire works well with a stroker.
I would like to change the gears, but at this point I ran out of that green stuff needed to buy everything lol. But I'm hoping to change gearing maybe in the winter when she comes off the road
Interesting that you're using an aluminum rod in a 2.3 stroker set up. I don't think I've heard of this before this post. I can't see how you will do this. It won't fit because with the aluminum rod, the big end of the rod is so big you can't really clearance the block for it without removing too much structural integrity from it.
Are you sure you didn't mean that its a 2.0 aluminum rod engine?
Line home mains
Surfaced deck
Magna fluxed
Bore/hone .020" over
Rotating assembly balanced to zero grams
Block clearanced for stroker installation
Pin fit
Parts:
Manley knife edge crank
FFWD vader aluminum rods
FFWD coated rod and main bearings (clevite)
Wiseco HD2 10.5:1 pistons with Armor Coating, .225" wall tool steel pins
OEM oil pump and gears
ARP mains
GMB water pump
OEM timing components
Buschur baffled drag oil pan
AMS zero balance, balance shaft
Line home mains
Surfaced deck
Magna fluxed
Bore/hone .020" over
Rotating assembly balanced to zero grams
Block clearanced for stroker installation
Pin fit
Parts:
Manley knife edge crank
FFWD vader aluminum rods
FFWD coated rod and main bearings (clevite)
Wiseco HD2 10.5:1 pistons with Armor Coating, .225" wall tool steel pins
OEM oil pump and gears
ARP mains
GMB water pump
OEM timing components
Buschur baffled drag oil pan
AMS zero balance, balance shaft
A Stroker crank has a long throw. When you combine the throw with the size of big end of an aluminum rod, you'll have to do crazy things to clearance the block. As you know, an aluminum rod is just physically bigger than a comparable steel rod. It needs the added size in order to be strong enough. This means that the amount of material removed from the bottom of each cylinder is going to be huge. I would suggest calling a well-known engine builder like David Buschur and asking him what his thoughts are on this. I have just never heard of anyone doing this and I've been doing this for a long time now.