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FS[Mid-Atlantic]: Chromoly weld/ bolt in rollbar
Chromoly weld/ bolt in rollbar
I have just taken this out of my car and did my best to keep everything as clean as possible. The main hoop bolts to the floor and the rear bars as well as the drivers side bar all are welded to the main hoop and all three also bolted to the chassis. I made it so that you can still get normal sized people in the rear seat and in my case two dogs that like to go for a ride.
I am also including the rear carpeted deck cover as the holes are already made. Not the easiest as the fiberboard broke around the edges, but once it is in place, you cannot see it. Where it bolts through the rear deck it goes through stock holes and the only place you have to drill to get it in is through the floor.
Tubing is 1.75" x .083"
Looking for an offer as I know it is easier to be picked up than it is to be shipped and I am willing to do either. For price... would like to get $300.
I am also including the rear carpeted deck cover as the holes are already made. Not the easiest as the fiberboard broke around the edges, but once it is in place, you cannot see it. Where it bolts through the rear deck it goes through stock holes and the only place you have to drill to get it in is through the floor.
Tubing is 1.75" x .083"
Looking for an offer as I know it is easier to be picked up than it is to be shipped and I am willing to do either. For price... would like to get $300.
Last edited by Technical10; Aug 8, 2014 at 05:54 PM. Reason: Added tubing dimensions
Can I get the tube size and wall thickness. Also, confirm is this 4pt or 5pt and where is the 5th point attach to. Looking at the picture of the main hoop, I only see 2 weld in points for the rear extensions.
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I will post the tubing thickness later today. It is a 5-point, when you are looking at the picture on the left side on the other side of the bar is where the door bar welds on. I did forget to mention that the door bar clears the factory seat (I am 5'9") and it clears the door with the door panel in place plus it meets the standard of having the door bar fall between your shoulder and elbow. The front bar bolts to the floor so you can get in and out without much complaining.
As far as certified, it did not have to be. As soon as I ran 10's our local tracks went crazy so I had to do this to get them to let me to run. Even when I was running low 11's the were not happy when I didn't have the bar in the car.
You need it because it lets your passengers in the back have an oh **** handle
Technical10
As far as certified, it did not have to be. As soon as I ran 10's our local tracks went crazy so I had to do this to get them to let me to run. Even when I was running low 11's the were not happy when I didn't have the bar in the car.
You need it because it lets your passengers in the back have an oh **** handle
Technical10
I will post the tubing thickness later today. It is a 5-point, when you are looking at the picture on the left side on the other side of the bar is where the door bar welds on. I did forget to mention that the door bar clears the factory seat (I am 5'9") and it clears the door with the door panel in place plus it meets the standard of having the door bar fall between your shoulder and elbow. The front bar bolts to the floor so you can get in and out without much complaining.
As far as certified, it did not have to be. As soon as I ran 10's our local tracks went crazy so I had to do this to get them to let me to run. Even when I was running low 11's the were not happy when I didn't have the bar in the car.
You need it because it lets your passengers in the back have an oh **** handle
Technical10
As far as certified, it did not have to be. As soon as I ran 10's our local tracks went crazy so I had to do this to get them to let me to run. Even when I was running low 11's the were not happy when I didn't have the bar in the car.
You need it because it lets your passengers in the back have an oh **** handle
Technical10
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