toe in i'm assuming? probably just going to stick with 0 toe though. i'm gonna raise the fronts about an inch and see how that helps

 

^^^

Good discussion regarding understeer. Looks like more of the basics is needed here & I like the note about RAKE

 

i never understood why some people are focused on zero toe. the car comes from the factory with toe in for a reason, albeit too much. i run 1/16" TOTAL rear toe in. It's like -0.01 degrees per side.

when you run zero toe, it is much easier to wind up with a toe out condition under load due to either deflection in the trailing arm bushing and/or bumpsteer which will lead to a loose condition. if you start with some toe in, then any changes will go less positive (or even stay negative to neutral) maintaining grip.

 

convinced me - i'll toss in a tiny amount of toe in at my next alignment

 

The only thing about that is that under load on the suspension everything is usually designed to move towards toe-in.

However, the slight rear toe-in is still a good solution to the issue.

For me with a similar set-up to kyoo except for TRE 12-plate instead of Cusco - so likely a little bit less aggressive - stock RSB with larger FSB worked. Minimal toe-out in the front and 0 toe in the rear. 2.5 F camber and 1.25 R.

 

yeah, in theory it should be designed to bump to toe in but i still think that if your running stock bushings and havent swapped to a better trailing arm bush and potentially a bump steer correction bush that you may be hitting toe out. id only be comfortable running zero rear toe if everything is fully locked down...but i also run tracks that dont always leave room for oversteer correction (close *** walls) so its a little bit of self preservatiion too! lol

 

To be fair, the car comes from the factory with a suspension setting optimized for the road and not the track. Zero toe at the rear has been the usual starting point for track Evos as far back as at least the Evo IV since I remember my cousin setting his to that way back in 1998. So I assume when the car made it's way here some of the similar thinking came with it.

I didn't remember what my toe in setting at the back was so I dug out the sheet from last year: 1/10" total rear toe in. I run a whiteline 22mm RSB set to it's softest setting, OEM incorrectly stacked rear diff with Bilstein PSS9s. I have the Ohlins R/Ts to swap in this year so we'll see how that goes. My rule #1 at the track being "bring myself back" so keep that in mind .

 

running WL rear trailing arm bushings and the bumpsteer kit as well. and the roll center adjuster and front control arm bushings. maybe something is wrong with my car... it was really way too loose on lift:

http://r56hs.com/2015/11/08/gax-11082015-evo/

I was on old *** tires but I think the balance of the car will still be the same.


this is a decent representation of what the car does or feels like doing in slaloms where it's neutral or throttle off. sorry for the thread jack lol

 

Hard to say without seeing what your doing with the throttle at the time of the spin. However I can tell you I run a lot more rebound than you were

 

so we don't thread jack anymore, i'll move the current convo here -- especially since I have the opposite problem of the OP

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/pr...l#post11583490

 

What's your tire pressure front and back?