So i thought i had all the bits i needed for this swap but apparently not. Who makes the rear diff cover adapter? The hole in the rear diff cover lines up perfectly, but is a solid 2 inches too far away from the bushing. Diff was prepared by TRE

Should i just have a 2 inch metal bushing machined?

 

ok so looks like i'm just going to fill up the gap with washers.

 

I believe Shep makes an adapter.

 

adapter is for 8/9 rear diff cover. This is a ralliart diff cover and does not have provisions for the other 3 bolt holes.

 

I am using a ralliart rear diff plate with literally with no bushing, without problem so far.

 

What is that between the subframe and diff? Did you weld a tube to the subframe to move the bushing closer to the diff??

 

And also, are you using the OEM X bolt? Or the RA bolt?

 

not me, the shop. And yest tbey did.
I have no idea if that is a stock bolt or the RA.

 

OP, did you ever come up with anything for this or did you just use a bunch of washers like you stated

 

I used approximately 12 grade 8 9/16 washers. grade 10.9 M14 washers will work as well.

I also ordered a longer bolt. M14x1.5 120mm long. You need the extra length to provide enough thread engagement in the diff cover.

No clunks that i can tell so far and 1 track weekend into the swap!

 

I realize this is an old thread, but curious how this held up for you?

I just had my diff swapped with a ralliart and currently the rear bolt between the subframe and diff is not installed.

I got the appropriate size bolt and washers and tried to install them today. i put the rear of the car on stands and slightly lifted up the back of the diff with a jack until it lined up as close a possible to the subframe and tried to install the bolt. But the subframe and diff do not line up straight, it off center by like 1/10 of an inch. I didnt torque it in as I didn't want to risk ruining the thread inside the diff.

Is there something I can loosen to give the diff a bit of left to right play and line it up properly?

 

I had the same situation, the axial alignment was a touch off meaning the bushing is slightly engaged. I too used the jack to position the diff and thread it in all the way. I've done a few more trackdays since with no issues in the diff or its mounting. Emphasis on having enough washers to take up the gap. Actually, in order to remove all gaps, i had to use an extra washer that actually pushed the bushing outwards slightly in a static position. It wasn't enough to make much of a difference. And the 120mm long bolt engages enough threads in the cover so that it won't rip out.

I recently started getting a clunking noise in the rear when i'm on left hand turns. Even just making 90's in an intersection or slow left hand sweepers its clunking at me. At this point i'm suspecting the axle..... but i don't know...... Hasn't gotten worse after i did laguna seca the other week.

 

Bumping this cuz I was looking for this thread after commenting in a different one about the same thing. Differential is still holding up, clunking is just the clutches, axles are fine. **** still rips, Sonoma raceway is tight and this thing activates all the time

 

Just curious, I have a complete engine evo x sst engine and rear cross with brake and differential,and also a rear cross with differential for ralliart. I want to swapped all into my lancer EX. But as far as I know evo x rear cross does not fit a lancer EX, thus a ralliart fits in perfectly.

If i installed the rear cross for ralliart with its own differential, can I use the drivetrain/propeller shaft for evo x to fit in the ralliart differential?
or
If I installed the rear cross for ralliart and swapped the evo x differential to it,can it be mounted into the ralliart cross?