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Does it move while mounted in the control arm? I ask because one of mine was a TINY bit loose. Once I installed it into the arm, that went away. Not sure if that applies to your situation or not.
Originally Posted by EVOizmm
Extra caster can come at a cost.
The only drawback I've found is my wheel is farther forward than I'd like. My camber plates bring the top back a bit but not enough to counter how far forward the PSRS put the wheel.
im the oddball out running the super pro offset bushing (spherica encased in poly) in evo x control arms on my 9. at -3.8 degrees of camber my car measures out at 4 degrees of caster on the left and 4.5 on the right.
i had a track related failure of one bushing after a curb strike on track. however, i feel that it was an install related failure thanks to the shop that pressed them using too much heat causing the poly to cleanly release from the outer metal sleeve when twisting force was applied.
that being said, i was sent new bushings under warranty, only replaced the failed one, and have beaten on it at watkins glen, NJMP and VIR without issue from either bushing.
Sperical bearings don't need to be sealed, they're a dry bearing. Tolerances are tight, so debris doesn't really get in them. Even in desert racing, they wear from abuse, not contamination.
well it doesnt hurt to have a dust boot on spherical bearing, especially on a daily driver. tolerance is tight for large debris but fine dust could still get in between. oem bearing have dust boot on rear control arm.
with more caster setting from PSRS, it push the wheel forward and the tires will chewing up the fender liners, if you run 275 tires. but i have camber/caster plates on top also which move to top back. so my wheel end up back in the center anyways.
The whiteline ones are thinner and will pinch the subframe mount a little if you don't use a washer/spacer.
I've installed 4 of the EvoX Whiteline KCA400M on Evo 8/9's. Fit and work perfectly.
Extra caster can come at a cost.
Originally Posted by letsgetthisdone
Perrin is also adjustable for lift/anti-lift.
I just put them up under the car as I have not installed them yet. You are correct now that I saw for myself. I will need to find some washers...
But now that I think about it, spacer on top or bottom is what provides for anti-lift/anti-dive. Therefore the WL pieces also provide this functionality.
well it doesnt hurt to have a dust boot on spherical bearing, especially on a daily driver. tolerance is tight for large debris but fine dust could still get in between. oem bearing have dust boot on rear control arm.
with more caster setting from PSRS, it push the wheel forward and the tires will chewing up the fender liners, if you run 275 tires. but i have camber/caster plates on top also which move to top back. so my wheel end up back in the center anyways.
What kind of plates are you using? I have Vorshlag and with the pivot point being at the control arm, no way will my plates move the wheel back to normal.
What do you mean by the pivot point being at the control arm? The easiest way to picture caster is thinking of rake on a basic motorcycle vs something like a chopper where the front suspension is further forward aka more caster.
Now plates vs the donut bushing on the LCA both add caster but do it in a different manor. The bushing will move the wheel forward from the bottom and the plates will move the top of the strut backwards towards the firewall thus also adding additional caster while balancing out the offset from the bottom. I don't know how much caster the Vorshlag plates add however I will say that my Ciro Design Racing plates in conjunction with the PSRS centered my wheel just about perfectly.
i have the TougeFactory top camber/caster plate. with the top plate moving back and the PSRS moving forward, my wheel is pretty center like factory. im using that plate on my ohlins RT now.
What do you mean by the pivot point being at the control arm? The easiest way to picture caster is thinking of rake on a basic motorcycle vs something like a chopper where the front suspension is further forward aka more caster.
Now plates vs the donut bushing on the LCA both add caster but do it in a different manor. The bushing will move the wheel forward from the bottom and the plates will move the top of the strut backwards towards the firewall thus also adding additional caster while balancing out the offset from the bottom. I don't know how much caster the Vorshlag plates add however I will say that my Ciro Design Racing plates in conjunction with the PSRS centered my wheel just about perfectly.
I don't have that much adjustment, unfortunately.
By pivoting from the control arm, I mean that yes: the bushing moves the arm forward X amount of mm. But if I move the camber plate back the same amount, it's not equal because I'm pivoting the arm from the ball joint on the control arm, so there is a ratio.
I'm curious to know how many mm up top = the amount the bottom has moved.
I'm not sure what the math is on that.
**edit, i suck at explaining things so here's a picture of how i picture it LOL. Am I wrong?
i have the TougeFactory top camber/caster plate. with the top plate moving back and the PSRS moving forward, my wheel is pretty center like factory. im using that plate on my ohlins RT now.
Fender liners? Long gone. Hot sticky Hoosiers A's and them don't mix with 275's mounted.
Pshh, I still have like 1/2 my fender liners in mass with 295s. They might be a little shredded by my wire harness is nice and protected still, I think?
