Right. It plugs to the back of the Junction box. Schematic 1 was referenced by Mitsu over the phone, saying that the Fuel Relay 2 is part of that circuit as well.

I hope I am giving you the info your after:



If not:
Ok. I might sound like an idiot. Honest questions here. You just want an hand drawn sketch? Should I take a picture of the fuse panel, with my tester inline, and point to the leads I shorted?

I have been only referencing schematic 2 that I have been working from. So I have only known to reference those points on the schematic. I get all my info from there.

I am pretty sure it was lead 3 to lead 4 I shorted. However, I thought during actual test I was testing lead 3 to lead 2. So I do not know exactly which of those leads I shorted to lead 4.
But I do know, it was on Relay 2.

Is this a good source for the correct circuit diagram? http://www.lilevo.com/mirage/EVO%208...Electrical.pdf
I went to my Workshop manuals disk, and realized I had saved all these, and they are not actually in the Workshop manuals. SO not sure where I got them. Most likely on line under a search for EVO 8 Fuel Pump Circuit Diagram/Schematic.

If you open up that pdf, on page 3-17 and 3-23 is a diagram of the same circuit, only points are renumbered.

 

Bump for previous post. Addition of full schematic. Hope this is what you need.

 

Bump for post 31. Also is this the correct pinout for the EVO 8? If it is, since their is no signal or voltage at relay 3, I am assuming that Fuel Pump Relay 2 Pin 2, outputs to ECM/ECU Input Pin 22 which then runs through ECM to Pin 39 which outputs signal to Fuel Pump Relay 3?

 

Bump for post 31 and 33.

As suggested by Merlin and Tephra, I have pulled both the ETACS ECU and the ECM, and pulled both apart to have a visual inspection. To my surprise both ECU's look in very excellent condition. Here are the pics of both units.

I also tested Pin 22 of the ECU based on post 33 pinout arrangement. Also someone suggested this is the pin or circuit with the ECM I may have fried. Stated there was a transistor attached to this pin that might of taken the brunt. So I decided to do a continuity test through the circuit as far as I could.

I traced Pin 22 through the ECU to Diode 1 we’ll say. Continuity tests good through diode 1. Tested to Transistor 1 we’ll say. I get full continuity from pin 22 to this transistor. I also can test both sides of the center of this transistor and get continuity. I get nothing on the other 2 leads of this transistor, I am assuming due to no power. I kept going anyways through the circuit testing continuity. It ends at the main chip from what I can tell after several diodes, and a couple other transistors. I lose the circuit after that. Just for comparison, I tested other circuits on the board, and get the same results on all transistors and diodes.

I guess what I am saying is, that it looks like the first transistor in the circuit is intact. No melt parts, no burn marks, no shorts. I would think that if I fried this circuit, this transistor would have taken the brunt and burned. It doesn’t appear to be damaged, and if the center lead tests good to both sides of the physical transistor, then I would assume it works…




I have been looking just in case the worse, and all replacements available are and have part number MRXXXX, I think I saw that they are compatible, but not sure yet.
















Transistor 1 in circuit from pin 22. Test good, center pin to back center lead.




Diode 1(I think it's a diode) inline from pin 22. Test good. Both sides, continuity through.<br/><br/>You can count the leads, starting left to right on the bottom row, then move to the top row and count out to 22.

 

Bump for post 31, 33, and 34. Thanks for all you have done so far MRFred. I appreciate any and all help. Hopefully I have given you useful information.

 

Am I missing something or are you saying the car wont start now? Because if its starting youre looking in the wrong place.
If its running have you tried a second set of injectors?

 

Yes, car won't start. I've posted it in multiple posts in this thread. Starting here: Also: In Post 1, I stated, for the initial issue, I swapped injectors, and symptoms remained.

 

Bump for post 31, 33, and 34. Thanks for all you have done so far MRFred. I appreciate any and all help. Hopefully I have given you useful information.

 

Sorry for not responding sooner. I was busy. Shorting pin 3 to pin 4 on relay #2 on that diagram would have done nothing, but shorting pin 3 to pin 2 would have fried the transistor relay in the ECU at pin 21 in that same diagram. I fried the transistor relay for mechanical relay #3 when I was doing my rewire, and there was no obvious damage either. I was able to have it repaired by the folks at DSMLink. I sent them a photo showing them what I wanted replaced (along with the ECU), and they successfully did the job. I've been running on the repaired ECU for several years now.

 

Ecmlink ftw. They repaired by 1g ECU. Had a bunch of traces burnt up from leaking caps. They repaired and the ECU never had a problem. They do good work.

 

Thanks MRFred. But just for clarification, on the color coded pinout in post 33, I'm in a GSR, not an MR, so is it pin 21 or 22? THat pinout diagram I posted states pin 22. I'm just asking to clarify.

I will search for the DSMLink fella's.

Thanks for hanging in there. Is ECMLink the same as DSMLink? Can you post a link?

Thanks everyone again.

More to come.

 

If you have an '04 Evo, then yes, its pin 22 on the ECU.

ECMLink = DSMLink.

 

MFRed, let me first say thank you.

Merlin.oz, Thank you for your support, and cross checking the pinout location for me.

Both of you, I was able to start the car. Shorting pin 22 to ground, and it took a couple cranks after being dead for 3 weeks, but she started up, and never sounded so good. Yeah to both of you.

I would like to understand what I just did. If grounding pin 22 starts the car, then is it a wiring issue between Relay 2 and the Input on pin 22? Can someone explain how the circuit works?

Now to find a replacement ECM/ECU and get it swapped and mapped.

Can anyone tell me of any unknown issues with just swapping a like ecu for like ecu? Like if I wanted to maintain the immobilizer function. Do I need to find an ECU with immobilizer circuit and key as well? Or are ECM/ECU's from the same year, with same connections(4 in my case), able to just plug the immobilizer hex of my vehicle into the ROM I am using and flash, and we're good?

Next, once I get the ECM/ECU issue handled, I am going to go ahead and purchase a new fuel Relay 3, Fuel Resistor Pack, and Injector Resistor Pack. My new theory after heavy thinking, is that possibly the Fuel Resistor Pack and Injector Resistor Pack are dying. I know it's rare for these resistor packs to do so, but I think they are. I base this theory off of all Voltage testing I have done on the circuit, heat is this the only constant. Voltage on the low fuel pump setting is effected only by heat. THis is the only voltage issue in the circuit, and only appears when things get hot. Injector Relay seems all the time, but I'm thinking was killed by heat. My engine bay if you remember is extremely hot. The outside edges of the fender get extremely hot to touch, just like motor. Everything under the hood, gets extremely hot. Heat causes resistance. I have done a few aesthetic things to cause an increase in heat under the hood. It has only been shortly over a year since I got the car back from full rebuild. Again, things injector wise seemed ok for a few months, then slowly got worse. Where settings that did work, all of a sudden don't work anymore. Same with the fuel circuit. After I replace these 3 parts, there is only 1 solenoid on the car, that is a stock part. All other parts are new within the last year.

So that's my thought's, we'll see what happens. If any one can offer answers to the few questions I posed, that would be greatly appreciated.

 

Bump for that question.

 

In the diagram in post #31, pin 21 (your pin 22) is shown with a transistor symbol with the emitter terminal to ground. The transistor acts as a switch between the pin and ground, so when the ECU turns that switch ON current will flow through the fuel pump relay coil to ground and therefore enable the fuel pump.

Shorting the relay coil (pins 2 & 3) connects the input to the transistor switch to the battery so when the ECU commands the switch ON, lots of current flows until the transistor burns out (which often happens before any fuse can blow).

Shorting pin 22 on your ECU to ground has the same effect the transistor would normally have when ON.