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Stacking Spacers?

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Old Sep 13, 2016 | 02:37 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by letsgetthisdone
This is why I went with them. They are the only I've found that will a custom spacer your specs for thickness, hub size, and wheel bore size. And they don't cost an arm and a leg. A couple companies would do it, but, "oh, well, we'd have to change programming and redo the fixture, so it would be like an extra $100"....f#ck outta here.
Word up homeslice Them paired with ARP studs and make sure the lug nuts are torqued especially after a couple heat cycles and the wheel shouldn't vibrate or ever fall off Too soon?
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Old Sep 13, 2016 | 02:40 PM
  #17  
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oh snap!
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Old Sep 13, 2016 | 02:45 PM
  #18  
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You dick....lol. The only thing that still hurts about that incident is that I'm still paying it off...sigh.
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Old Sep 13, 2016 | 02:54 PM
  #19  
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Im sorry, that was mean don't hate it's all in good fun since you didnt die or kill anyone...

I think I told you but if not I almost lost a wheel last season. Im driving home from an auto-x and my wheel starts shaking. Im like wtf!? Pulled over and sure enough front right lugnuts are finger loose. Scared the sh*t outa me though that could have been bad. I think it had to do with the heat cycles or something because I torqued them Sat morning before racing and then also raced Sunday but didnt retorque them that morning.

I've never had that happen prior and hope to never have it happen to me again but now Im even more **** about retorquing lug nuts. Im not sure if running spacers had something to do with it but I keep a close eye on them now because of that.

Also, I was putting my snows on my car back in like November or whenever it was and I friggin snapped an ARP stud torquing them down. I usually zip them with the gun then finish it with a torque wrench. Not sure why it was so brittle I think it was due to my wheel "incident" but geese kinda annoying IMO.
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Old Sep 13, 2016 | 03:06 PM
  #20  
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No hate...lol


Yeah, broken stud was probably started with the almost wheel off. It would be recommended to replace any/all wheel hardware (studs and lug nuts) that experience even just a loose wheel.
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Old Sep 13, 2016 | 03:14 PM
  #21  
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Yeah I put new studs in but I didn't replace the lug nuts. Theyre steel figured they're fine...Maybe I should pick up a set of Ti lug nuts for "safety"
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Old Sep 13, 2016 | 03:26 PM
  #22  
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Yeah, for safety... lol
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Old Sep 13, 2016 | 08:00 PM
  #23  
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I ended up getting the JM Fab 23mm spacers. They clear the caliper perfectly just ever so slightly >3mm at the tightest point.
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Old Sep 19, 2016 | 12:29 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by MinusPrevious
We have proven, in the EVO community, that running a less than 25mm spacer seems to work Ok but does add extra load to the hub bearing


Two misconceptions Ive seen here so far.


1. High offset + spacer equal to low offset will have the same load on the hub. Applied load to the hub bearing doesn't care about the load path (other parts between them may though.


2. Hubcentric is only used to center the wheel when installing. It DOES NOT support the wheel. A wheel with 5 lugs is already overconstrained. The centering ring will not enforce position unless its severely off.
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Old Sep 19, 2016 | 02:01 PM
  #25  
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I'm sorry, regarding #2. Are you saying hubcentric rings do not carry load? Its the lugs which are holding weight of car?

I thought it was the hub, which took the bulk of load. Studs/lugs only to correctly center/mate wheel to hub...
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Old Sep 19, 2016 | 02:06 PM
  #26  
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The lugs apply a force between the face of the wheel and the face of the hub. What carries the load is primarily the friction force between the two faces.


The lugs also have an effect, and overall its an indeterminate contribution, but you're relying on friction.
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Old Sep 19, 2016 | 05:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Dallas J
Two misconceptions Ive seen here so far.


1. High offset + spacer equal to low offset will have the same load on the hub. Applied load to the hub bearing doesn't care about the load path (other parts between them may though.


2. Hubcentric is only used to center the wheel when installing. It DOES NOT support the wheel. A wheel with 5 lugs is already overconstrained. The centering ring will not enforce position unless its severely off.

1. My point is that a lower offset wheel (i.e. +15) will create more of lever moment than a higher offset wheel (+35). Its not the spacer that causes the higher load, its when you widen the track past a narrower track is when the bearing load increases. I think we would agree on that?

2. Most automotive wheels, including the EVO wheel end, are supported by the hub & clamp force & not the studs. The studs would be in shear & can not tolerate that type of load. (the wheels are,what is called "Hub Piloted") The stud nuts are there for clamping force.

Not saying I know all, but I happen to work in the automotive industry involved in wheel end components


Last edited by MinusPrevious; Sep 19, 2016 at 05:55 PM.
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Old Sep 19, 2016 | 06:24 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by MinusPrevious
This was my understanding as well...
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Old Sep 19, 2016 | 06:40 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by V.8MR
This was my understanding as well...

The system thats in place is 3 fold IMO. Wheel positioning & load by the hub bore flange & clamped up by the stud nuts. Its a system
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Old Sep 19, 2016 | 06:59 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by MinusPrevious
1. My point is that a lower offset wheel (i.e. +15) will create more of lever moment than a higher offset wheel (+35). Its not the spacer that causes the higher load, its when you widen the track past a narrower track is when the bearing load increases. I think we would agree on that?

2. Most automotive wheels, including the EVO wheel end, are supported by the hub & clamp force & not the studs. The studs would be in shear & can not tolerate that type of load. (the wheels are,what is called "Hub Piloted") The stud nuts are there for clamping force.
Can certainly agree with #1 but what is needed here is a specific offset. Just want to make sure its clear it doesnt matter how you get there to the loads on the bearing.

On #2, thats just not right. The center "spigot" does nothing to support load. A wheel rolls and the fit of the wheel on that center is not an interference fit. That means, there is no way load is transferred continuously along is perimeter. The generally accepted load transfer is via the friction force created by clamping loads.

http://www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.cfm?qid=152939
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