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Making progress on the billet control arms, its the highest priority thing I have going right now so I'm ready to do initial testing in 2 weeks before heading to crows pro in 4 weeks.
Ignore the bearing gap on the ball joint stud, just used that for clearance checks. The High misalignment bearing fits the full gap with just a little overlap to get a clamping load on it.
Looked up his IG and saw that. Post previous to wrecked car was him talking about how fun rain track days are, and how fast he was going, and drifting T11. Sounds like it bit him...
In regards to this thread, I'll be installing my trailing arms, and SSB designs Ohlin's top hats this weekend. I'll get some better pics than what I put in the other thread. The DERTCO TIG welds are quite pretty.
Welds? You used WELDS? DON'T YOU KNOW YOU ARE UNDERCUTTING EVERYONE ELSE WHO EVER USED A WELD??!!
Originally Posted by Dallas J
Making progress on the billet control arms, its the highest priority thing I have going right now so I'm ready to do initial testing in 2 weeks before heading to crows pro in 4 weeks.
Ignore the bearing gap on the ball joint stud, just used that for clearance checks. The High misalignment bearing fits the full gap with just a little overlap to get a clamping load on it.
Yes, please! Not that they are anywhere near my price range, but still
Yeah, me too. Always seems like its more a PITA than it needs to be. It also works well because its a turned part so can all be done in one operation. I think as I look at the design overall of this and figure out what needs to change, it will mostly be to reduce operations or contoured walls. Like on the tube end that connects to the control arm, those contoured walls look better but it doubles the time to make it.
In that instance, I may also just use a flat mill with a large (0.060") corner radii and a large step up. Then I can just come back with a flapper wheel and knock down the cusps.
The arm itself is looking to be expensive though. Without a 4th axis its 5 setups. My first quote on them was over $300 for each arm in just my cost. The hardware with bearings and rod ends are all around another $200. Ball joint studs are going to be $25-50 depending on quantity. So to make this all worth while, I couldn't do these for less than $1000 without making pretty much zero dollars. Will have to figure out how to reduce MFG costs for sure.
Err...I don't think I've put any of this pictures up. Thank god I got a new phone though as these pictures suck on a big screen. HAHA
How about a set of engine mounts that drops 18 pounds?
Yes, please!
and I'll add pics of my oil pan. My fab guy and I worked out the details, based on the RaceFab pan. Originally planned to baffle the stock pan.. then my fab guy reminded me that 4qts on a high-performance turbo car is silly, so we decided to increase volume. I then told him about the RaceFab pan and he decided trap doors were easy to add, so boom.
Thanks sir. He wants to build spindles too. We had talked about roll center correction mods back when I had a GTI since no one made a balljoint for it, then it got totaled. He thinks he can make chromoly/steel spindles pretty light. I need to find him an OEM spindle so he can measure it up and put it in solid works. That's what he did for the arms. We'll have to get measurements of the car too so he can plot roll center, bump steer, etc.
Originally Posted by kaj
Waiting for mine!
In time. Need to do durability testing, and source a different balljoint. This had an unthreaded portion of the pin sticking out the top of the spindle. Had to use an extra thick washer.
Last edited by letsgetthisdone; Mar 27, 2017 at 06:49 AM.
An upright weldment would be interesting, seems like there would be at least one machined part in the ball joint mount. Ive thought about doing my control arm as a tubular weldment but in the end I just like billet more.. More freedom of form.
Mar 22, 2017 | 10:23 AM
