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We have a laser cutter at my school and I know a guy with a waterjet. Looks pretty simple. I can draw it up tonight when I've got free time.
Edit: Had a free minute. Do you have a need for any of the other sizes?
Either way. I don't think anyone's advertising making these yet for those that don't have a guy already. So one could post these up on the Nasa forums and sell em pretty easily I'd think. HQ did mention each director would have a set so I assume they are ...assuming...that theirs will match others. Just needs to be dead nuts accurate.
So there's 4 official templates available from HQ - 226mm, 257mm, 266mm, and of course 282mm. I personally will never run anything skinnier then 275's so I only need the 282. But I'm thinking they'll need to be stiff, but cheap...because as new as these rules are they are subject to...changing .
Either way. I don't think anyone's advertising making these yet for those that don't have a guy already. So one could post these up on the Nasa forums and sell em pretty easily I'd think. HQ did mention each director would have a set so I assume they are ...assuming...that theirs will match others. Just needs to be dead nuts accurate.
So there's 4 official templates available from HQ - 226mm, 257mm, 266mm, and of course 282mm. I personally will never run anything skinnier then 275's so I only need the 282. But I'm thinking they'll need to be stiff, but cheap...because as new as these rules are they are subject to...changing .
I'll see what I can do. I've got it set to 4mm thick right now (probably end up using 1/8 or 3/16 sheet). Off the top of my head I'd guess that aluminum would be the cheapest, somewhat stiff material to make it out of. If I had access to a larger printer then ABS would be perfect.
I'll see what I can do. I've got it set to 4mm thick right now (probably end up using 1/8 or 3/16 sheet). Off the top of my head I'd guess that aluminum would be the cheapest, somewhat stiff material to make it out of. If I had access to a larger printer then ABS would be perfect.
cad and big blue saw could be really handy for something like this..
Can of one of you guys print some of these for us from plastic or alum (or steel if it's cheaper)? This is the "new" way their measuring section width of a tire, in this case 275's. The legs need to be 30mm tall from the surface. So this slides over the tire, inflated, mounted on whatever rim the driver chooses and the surface sits "flat" while the legs go down 30mm along the sidewall. Basically if it can't sit flat, then you've gone past the appropriate size and get DQ'd. They also have them for 226 and 257mm. https://nasa-assets.s3.amazonaws.com...plate_2017.pdf
The cheapest would be galvanized steel. We could etch the dimension on it easily.
I have access to a lase and could cut some this week. Just the 282mm?
Ya I was thinkin ABS would be perfect too but then I started thinking about wear and tear and how it would warp/fray. And really, would you even need the handle on it...
But ya I don't think any Evo or vette guys running in our classes are using 245's so the 282 would be the most popular for those trying to get the .3 for 275's like myself. Then if it's ...really...11.1" now and not "275 printed"...which DOT tire just squeezes into that on what rim lol.
Ya I was thinkin ABS would be perfect too but then I started thinking about wear and tear and how it would warp/fray. And really, would you even need the handle on it...
But ya I don't think any Evo or vette guys running in our classes are using 245's so the 282 would be the most popular for those trying to get the .3 for 275's like myself. Then if it's ...really...11.1" now and not "275 printed"...which DOT tire just squeezes into that on what rim lol.
how many do you want? does 10 or 12ga galv sound okay?
how many do you want? does 10 or 12ga galv sound okay?
I just want one, it's one of those deals you'll use once on the combo of wheel and tire you have and then....it'll stay in the toolbox until you decide to use something different, so mm accuracy is number 1, cheap is number 2. Since you're in the Utah region you can likely print several of each and sell em at the first event too. Same goes for you Ayoustin, lots of folks in the MW region.
been working on a better fuel system for some while.. we noticed fuel starvation in left hand turns so I had an idea to add an active pump to transferfuel from co driver side tank.. this keeps fuel in the small surge bown inside the main tank and I can do away with the bloody venturi..
this is just the aux pump lift pump... the main side will have another hanger too..
also, there is an even better system in the works but that one requires cutting and welding the tank... this is plug and play..
Nice, I've been thinking something to get rid of the choke point in the factory fuel pump assy may need to happen soon for me too. Make something cool and we can trade parts
first plug n play set is going to the US in 3 weeks..
the system has a small float switch to shut off the aux pump when it drains the co driver side of the tank... it flows about 180 lph and uses only about 1.5 A which is a nice bonus..
sure, I will post pics when I am done..
the set for my car will use 2 more lift pumps and I will close the opening in the fuel bowl in the main tank.. that way I have 3 litre surge tank inside the main tank.. however... tank cutting and welding..
Anyone have a spare mivec gear sitting around? Im wanting to model the outside ring of one to compensate for the 4g64 instead of just running 1 tooth off. Basically want to do a 1/2 tooth shift. Checking here first before I really start searching, hoping someone just has one.
Anyone have a spare mivec gear sitting around? Im wanting to model the outside ring of one to compensate for the 4g64 instead of just running 1 tooth off. Basically want to do a 1/2 tooth shift. Checking here first before I really start searching, hoping someone just has one.
I have a spare MIVEC gear outer ring, would that work for you? It's just the gear teeth part and not the actual center mass/MIVEC oil interaction part that it's bolted to.
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