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thanks for the input. gotta imagine that it's gonna be low when I check it again, and i'll fill it at that time. basically I drained it when cold, then refilled as much as I could and found it didn't fill up. THEN, I turned the car on and let it run, at which point the coolant climbed almost all the way up and never backed down until I turned the engine off. once the coolant backed down I was able to fill it a bit, but by my calculations still 0.5-1.0qts low on coolant. Heater worked, blowing warm air. Will check it tonight or tomorrow to hopefully refill the remainder.
Thanks!
In cool to cold weather you will find it takes considerable time for the engine to heat enough to open the thermostat - like maybe 20 minutes. Standing there it seems more like an hour. It sounds like you may have not run it long enough to open the thermostat burping the engine, hence the missing capacity. Also, on the Evo there is no water valve for cabin heat. Water is flowing through the core any time the engine is in operation meaning no need to worry about having the heater on and running.
In cool to cold weather you will find it takes considerable time for the engine to heat enough to open the thermostat - like maybe 20 minutes. Standing there it seems more like an hour. It sounds like you may have not run it long enough to open the thermostat burping the engine, hence the missing capacity. Also, on the Evo there is no water valve for cabin heat. Water is flowing through the core any time the engine is in operation meaning no need to worry about having the heater on and running.
got it. basically for me now - I can open the radiator and should be able to get the remaining fluid in?
got it. basically for me now - I can open the radiator and should be able to get the remaining fluid in?
I would think so. Even if you left it and filled the jug it would nurse off of it every time the engine cooled. Still, this isn't the correct way to do it, you want to start off with a filled system.
welcome to the forum - i've actually been running zerex asian vehicle fluid + redline water wetter for a while now, no issues. no freezing with the water wetter in there either
Ive got a dry coolant system and new rad about to go in. It does get below freezing here obv but in general I try and always keep the garage above freezing.
In the summer I'll probably run water and water wetter. But guess just go with OEM mix for winter storage?
We talk about antifreeze in one of my classes and briefly touch on some of the chemical properties.
As for track uses, water and water wetter is without question the way to go. Not only does it cool better but you'll make a lot of people very unhappy campers if you leak glycol based coolant on track.
For an evo, avoid coolant with silicates in it. Here's some good rules of thumb (there are other asian coolant colors as well too, I know Subaru uses blue coolant, Zerex asian formula is pink, pretty much don't judge a coolant by its color):
Last edited by Ayoustin; Dec 13, 2017 at 02:38 PM.
yup - ZEREX™ Asian Vehicle has been designed to meet the requirements of Asian manufacturers, which specify a silicate free HOAT formula with a phosphate additive to protect their cooling systems from rust and corrosion
Pretty much all modern day coolants will provide proper metal protection, some older stuff used to cause scale formation in aluminum engine and if it got bad enough could cause the engine to overheat because the heat transfer was so poor.
Nowadays proper coolant means coolant that won't damage any seals or synthetic components in the cooling system. The biggest instance of such a failure is probably GM's Dexcool and it's incompatibility with nylon 6/6 which is used in a lot of seals and plastic components in older GM engines.
Super Tech from Walmart. My car is approaching it's 15th birthday and the worse corrosion I've seen was with the OEM antifreeze fill. The Walmart stuff mixed with distilled water works great - no need to go pricey.
So am I doing something wrong here? I always just used the OEM Mitsu coolant mixed 50/50 with distilled water...when I finish my build Ill obviously be refilling with new coolant and wondering if I should get something different. Think I may have another jug of the Mitsu stuff but for $20 if something is better them Im all ears.
yea - i flushed out a lot of corrosion over the years, surprisingly so. used rmi-25 and bunch of crap showed up in the overflow. i switched to zerex asian & a little bit of redline water wetter, very clean
Originally Posted by heel2toe
So am I doing something wrong here? I always just used the OEM Mitsu coolant mixed 50/50 with distilled water...when I finish my build Ill obviously be refilling with new coolant and wondering if I should get something different. Think I may have another jug of the Mitsu stuff but for $20 if something is better them Im all ears.
Interesting. See I always just used the Mitsu stuff as I said but I thought our cars just called for basic ethylene glycol coolant. I never like the Prestone crap and seems like a lot of coolants at the parts stores have various ingredients so finding a basic one meant that just getting the mitsu stuff was the easy button.
