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We are all loaded up and off on a 6hr drive to the next round. New Zealand Grand Prix this weekend.
One of only 2 official Grand Prix held outside of formula 1. The other being the Macau GP
I am delighted to hear you use AYC with Ralliart ECU.
Because unlike most I not only think highly of AYC Torque vectoring, but I also am considering to upgrade my RS rear plated LSD built to Ralliart spec, to AYC.
I have an Evo with AYC and although a little unsettling while car was entirely stock, once chassis was properly setup on coilovers AYC became magic. Predictable and faithfully rotating car through corner.
RS plated LSD induces understeer, until rear gets loose. It works but it’s a bit of a Live Axle effect, stiffly connecting rear wheels, therefore there is always friction, less then ideal fluid drive from rear axle.
In contrast AYC Torque Vectoring, instead of forcing inside slower turning wheel to turn faster to match outer wheel inducing friction, helps naturally rotating chassis by dosing a bit more torque through outer wheel with more grip due to weight transfer.
Can you tell us how is AYC working for you, and specifically if RallIart ECU has had an effect on AYC specifically? We know it works on ACD mapping but curious if it also remaps AYC, and what is the effect?
I am delighted to hear you use AYC with Ralliart ECU.
Because unlike most I not only think highly of AYC Torque vectoring, but I also am considering to upgrade my RS rear plated LSD built to Ralliart spec, to AYC.
I have an Evo with AYC and although a little unsettling while car was entirely stock, once chassis was properly setup on coilovers AYC became magic. Predictable and faithfully rotating car through corner.
RS plated LSD induces understeer, until rear gets loose. It works but it’s a bit of a Live Axle effect, stiffly connecting rear wheels, therefore there is always friction, less then ideal fluid drive from rear axle.
In contrast AYC Torque Vectoring, instead of forcing inside slower turning wheel to turn faster to match outer wheel inducing friction, helps naturally rotating chassis by dosing a bit more torque through outer wheel with more grip due to weight transfer.
Can you tell us how is AYC working for you, and specifically if RallIart ECU has had an effect on AYC specifically? We know it works on ACD mapping but curious if it also remaps AYC, and what is the effect?
Thank you
Im not 100% if it remaps the ayc specifically. but the ayc still works and personally i think its definately improved grip and rotation post turn over stock ecu.
I havnt driven my car with an RS rear setup so cnt say how it compares but im quite liking the progress we are making with the AYC. Although at first it was terrible and i could still do with more turn grip.
When the AYC comes into its own is during a wet race. i was literally 2 seconds a lap quicker than everybody else in class including 2 other evos and a wrx on the sunday morning race which was pretty wet. and i had so much grip out of the slow turns which is where i reckon most of the difference was.
Is it the ideal setup for a track car vs RS? no idea as i havnt tried both. but i reckon theres alot of un tapped potential there. once i get dallas' front hub setup and get some decent turn ill know for sure.
Oh man, glad it was a gravel trap and not a tire wall in that off. Agreed with jheff, car looks great out there throwing rock!
jheff, 295s under stock body parts takes a really perfect fit of all things along with a good 3/4" of fender pulling. In the rear, it needed new trailing arms and a little cutting on the inner fender lip. The lip needs to be cut where it gets about 2x as thick or as you pull the fender it can buckle the sheetmetal. Then also trip the flat face the bumper attaches to at an angle back to the mounting bolt.
Front requires ~15-18mm of spacer to make the same wheel as the rear work, a healthy pulling of fender or a fender spacer mod, front bumper to fender bolt relocation and trimming, fender liner trimming, and typically something that pushes the wheel forward to clear the rear wheel. With combined spacer/wheel offset you end up with a fair amount of scrub and that combined with the wheel width and diameter makes it likely youll rub rear fender well.
If you get it all exactly right, you can have nearly zero rub with 295s. That or Ive just rubbed away everything that can rub by now
If only I bought a shell with no rust . The fender pulling looks so aggressive it doesnt even look stock.
I dont want to hijack this thread with fitment questions I have asked so much. Theoretically, if I say, pushed the track width out 15-20mm with control arms and such, could I avoid using the spacer? or is it the brakes?
I have been in between as to what i want to do to combat my quarter panel rust, to cut it all away, weld new metal in and pretend it didnt happen, or cut it away and widebody because the rust is in the area that wheel wells get cut for a widebody.
Knowing that bee-raddd's car is just pulled really has me questioning my direction
Originally Posted by Dallas J
Oh man, glad it was a gravel trap and not a tire wall in that off. Agreed with jheff, car looks great out there throwing rock!
jheff, 295s under stock body parts takes a really perfect fit of all things along with a good 3/4" of fender pulling. In the rear, it needed new trailing arms and a little cutting on the inner fender lip. The lip needs to be cut where it gets about 2x as thick or as you pull the fender it can buckle the sheetmetal. Then also trip the flat face the bumper attaches to at an angle back to the mounting bolt.
Front requires ~15-18mm of spacer to make the same wheel as the rear work, a healthy pulling of fender or a fender spacer mod, front bumper to fender bolt relocation and trimming, fender liner trimming, and typically something that pushes the wheel forward to clear the rear wheel. With combined spacer/wheel offset you end up with a fair amount of scrub and that combined with the wheel width and diameter makes it likely youll rub rear fender well.
If you get it all exactly right, you can have nearly zero rub with 295s. That or Ive just rubbed away everything that can rub by now
the rears are actually APR widebody hahaha. just very well blended in so that they look almost stock.
I ran some 18 x 9.5 +12p wheels before hand with stock rear guards and widebody front guards. just had to do what dallas said basically. it can be done its just a bit of work.
We then put 18x 10.5 +25p on but we used the double overfender blister bit from a voltex rear fender to make them fit. then we went full widebody on the rear haha
Best of luck out there and keep safe!
. The fender pulling looks so aggressive it doesnt even look stock.