I'm hoping he means the Port C needs to be free from T's (because most hook into the BC line). My A+B setup includes a Y connector and its going straight to the intake manifold with only about 12" of vacuum line. Ted, if you would, please chime in if you can.

 

u don't need a filter for it.

 

That is the best way to do it.

The 'C' port (if there is one) should go straight to a boost signal on the other side of the TB (e.g. UICP).

If one tees anything else into these lines, it cannot be something that isn't pressure tight. For example, a boost control device is nothing but a controlled pressure leak, and should not be tee'd into any BOV signal line.

 

Ted B what do u recommend for a boost source in a stock vehicle, with a boost controller?

 

^ he just said it. You'll have to drill/tap into the upper intercooler pipe on the other side of the throttle plate (where boost is).

 

Thank you sir - If I ever stop working I'll drive my car and report back with A+B.

 

All this might make the most sense if everyone understands that a BOV is just a valve that equalizes the pressure on each side of the throttle blade. It's that simple. The faster and more accurately it can sense a sudden difference in pressure between sides, the faster and more accurately it works to equalize it. That is why clean (free of leaks) signal lines are important.

 

Hmmm interesting. I have to check again where my 3rd line is going to.

 

I got around to trying the other two settings today after work (last setting was running just Port B of course). Again these are my personal opinions based off my car; your settings may vary and remember this Synchronic doesn't have a Port C. I also did not adjust the set screw, I left everything the way it came from Synapse.

A+B: Sounded/felt the most crisp to me during shifts, however, resulted in BOV flutter in 6th gear on the freeway. 3300rpm or so, give it some gas and let the boost rise. 15 psi or so and barely lift and the BOV will flutter.

A (B VTA): While sounding a little less crisp, the BOV will now open as soon as I step on the clutch or lift off the gas. Resulted in a LOT less flutter on the freeway. I could build 15-17psi and barely lift and it would purge or almost make a leak sound like the oem 9. It did flutter on me once, but I made 10 or so other attempts and it worked like I described.

Again I've had limited seat time on each setting and will probably run through them all again (or a third time ) but for right now I like just A connected and B VTA. My mods are pretty basic, you can click the link in my sig to see them. I'm not curious to see how a Synchronic WITH Port C would feel. R/Ternie tells me using ecu controlled boost, limiting WGDC by TPS can fix all this but then I'd just run the Tial eheh.

 

the srt-4 and the volvo use the bov and a solenoid to vent boost under part throttle conditions to prevent the surging issues.

I think limiting wgdc during small tps%'s will help, but it may not cure the problem completely.

I think a HTA3586 might fix the problem though.

 

do you have any pictures of your set up?

there are a few little tricks to change the angle or make it sit how you want

 

whats the best way to drill into the inter-cooler to get a better boots source for the c-port?

 

you can also T off the line from the turbo J pipe. I found that to work well on my Evo.
-Devin

 

I like that logic and often use it on the girlfriend

 

Eric you should send me your Synapse with Port C so I can test it