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Need input on 2011 w 16.5k miles and OEM clutch failure

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Old Dec 12, 2011 | 09:14 PM
  #1  
santo78's Avatar
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Need input on 2011 w 16.5k miles and OEM clutch failure

2011 Evo GSR, 16,500 miles Daily driver, no hard launching, no drag racing, normal driving.
AEM cold air intake & HKS exaust w/ custom tune.

Car drove fine up until roughly two weeks ago. Noticed RPMs pulsing a bit when I'd clutch out; Over last weekend car went from what I now see as slippage to a point where I can put car in 1st, completely release clutch and car will idle as if in neutral.

Contact with local dealership & Mitsubishi Motors of NA both yeilded a "not covered under warranty" response. Dealership service rep actually commented he has seen them fail at 4k up to 40k and they're never covered. I've checked the main cylinder visible from top of engine, followed steel line out to transition to hose and find no visible leaks/residue. Check under dash and pedal/shaft through firewall shows no residue/leaks. Only place I haven't checked is underside of engine/bell housing for secondary leak/fluid residue.

Questions are as follows:

1. Has anyone successfully convinced dealership to repair a failure of this nature? 16k with single adult driver seems very short lived and sounds more like a material flaw.

2. Assuming I'm on my own, does anyone have suggestions for a non-OEM (as Mitsu's last clutch was crap) replacement clutch kit/setup that is better then OEM but reasonable for a daily driver? I'm not talking cheapest thing on the market but I also don't need a stage 5 full racing clutch. I keep seeing various kits offered from Exedy; but I haven't had any experience and yield to the masses for input.

3. Part of selection of Kit for #2 above would be question regarding how the rest of the remaining OEM parts not replaced would function; I'm looking to avoid having to replace any current factory parts because the new clutch kit has blown out the factory cylinders, over pressurized lines or just won't allow something to function.

4. Any other thoughts or input would be most welcome.
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Old Dec 12, 2011 | 09:24 PM
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ExtremeDSM's Avatar
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Good luck. Mitsu is really cracking down on warranty work. I am pretty sure that the clutch has a 12k warranty. I just had a problem with a clutch spring clip that mitsu damaged while replacing motor and they would not fix it. It was a big ordeal and I finally got them to pull the trans to find the problem and I brought them a used pressure plate and made them put that in at no charge.

The especially will not cover it with a tune and mods. I have read that Mitsu can tell if the ecu has been flashed even if the tune is put back to stock. That may be on the newer models. Don't know if that is true or not, something to read into.

Hope everything works out for you!!!
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Old Dec 13, 2011 | 01:20 AM
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JReid's Avatar
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From: NC
I believe I saw a thread on here a long time ago regarding someone who was able to get their clutch replaced but I believe it was even lower mileage than yours. I am not sure if they would do it.

As far as replacement kits, here is a review I did on the ACT HD 6-puck sprung and streetlite flywheel. For the CMC all I did was the AMS reinforcement ring and knock on wood, its doing great. As you stated, you may not need the 6 puck but if you plan on modding in the future I recommend it. If you plan to stay where you're at I recommend the ACT street line of clutch. If I had to do it over again, I wouldn't change my clutch selection but I would just have the stock flywheel resurfaced. It will save you some bucks but your car will be down for as long as it takes for them to get around to resurface it. Which could only be a day. Its up to you. Just keep in mind that depending on your selection, CMC upgrade will eventually be a must.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...-flywheel.html

Good luck!
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Old Dec 13, 2011 | 05:28 AM
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evokid4life's Avatar
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From: NorthWest,Indiana
my stock clutch gave out at 5k miles but thats cause i launched my car multiple times while slipping the clutch to much
Im 99.99% wont cover it for any reason at all
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Old Dec 13, 2011 | 08:25 AM
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Kracka's Avatar
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From: Prosper, TX
For a mild aftermarket upgrade check out:
Exedy Stage 1
WORKS CK0/1
ClutchMasters FX100/200
SPEC Stage 1
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Old Dec 13, 2011 | 08:38 AM
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i've got the same thing happening, i noticed it driving in to work today - 4,400 miles and in any gear if i stand on it and it approaches 3-4k RPM, the RPMs jump then catch. hitting the dealer today or tomorrow to see what they say. no track, no street racing, just driving around the city and the highway very infrequently.

what does it do for the warranty by putting in an aftermarket clutch, if necessary?

thanks!
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Old Dec 13, 2011 | 09:25 AM
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Kracka's Avatar
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An aftermarket clutch will void the warranty on the rest of your drivetrain (transmission, transfer case, rear differential, etc.).

Everyone needs to remove their clutch restrictor pills ASAP!
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Old Dec 13, 2011 | 01:31 PM
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so i shot out to the dealer after noon...there's slight slippage in any gear for about 700-800 RPM as it approaches full-tilt - which tells me it's going to be smoked sooner rather than later. the dealer guy said he could take it apart and see, but he's never had a clutch be covered under warranty because it's always due to driver use/abuse (i've only got 4,500 miles on it!), and once it's apart i've got to pay for the labor anyway. so, as kracka has just answered my question about an aftermarket clutch and warranty liability....what's the general consensus? find a good private shop, swap out the clutch, the reinforcement ring for the cmc and either resurface the flywheel or get a aftermarket one? or should i take it back to the dealer and roll the dice? thanks ahead of time.
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Old Dec 13, 2011 | 02:19 PM
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how do u remove the clutch restrictor pill
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Old Dec 13, 2011 | 02:45 PM
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why would you have to remove the restrictor pill?
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Old Dec 13, 2011 | 04:37 PM
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From: Prosper, TX
Originally Posted by AV6JT
why would you have to remove the restrictor pill?
More direct clutch operation and less built-in clutch slip.
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Old Dec 13, 2011 | 04:38 PM
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Kracka's Avatar
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From: Prosper, TX
Originally Posted by TonyStark29
how do u remove the clutch restrictor pill
Remove the clutch line and bleeder nipple from the slave cylinder and poke it out with a small allen wrench, then bleed the system. It's a small plastic pill and spring. Search a bit, I did a more in-depth how to on it a while back.
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Old Dec 13, 2011 | 05:54 PM
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4B11AWD's Avatar
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From: Was: Fredericksburg, Va Now: Madison, AL
Originally Posted by Kracka
Remove the clutch line and bleeder nipple from the slave cylinder and poke it out with a small allen wrench, then bleed the system. It's a small plastic pill and spring. Search a bit, I did a more in-depth how to on it a while back.
Can you do us a favor and link it? I think I tried searching on this topic a while back and its a tough find. Think a lot of us are in the same boat and would hate to install a clutch just to have it prematurely wear out again.

Thanks in advance
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Old Dec 29, 2011 | 12:37 PM
  #14  
Spazo's Avatar
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From: Maryland
Yeah, I had this issue. 9,9k miles but I was outside the 12 month limitation so no warranty replacement. Fought for 3 months with Mitsu and even went to 3rd party mediation but no go. Ended up going for a ACT HDSS clutch and haven't been happier.

As for it voiding the warranty, according to the Mistu NA person I talked to, if the claim you are submitting is caused by the non-Mitsu authorized part, then no warranty coverage. However, if it isn't related, then you should be ok. IMO, they'll just fall back on the "the ankle bone is attached to the leg bone which is attached to the hip bone, etc etc" so the problem you are having with your head isn't covered because of your ankle...
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