Need input on 2011 w 16.5k miles and OEM clutch failure
Need input on 2011 w 16.5k miles and OEM clutch failure
2011 Evo GSR, 16,500 miles Daily driver, no hard launching, no drag racing, normal driving.
AEM cold air intake & HKS exaust w/ custom tune.
Car drove fine up until roughly two weeks ago. Noticed RPMs pulsing a bit when I'd clutch out; Over last weekend car went from what I now see as slippage to a point where I can put car in 1st, completely release clutch and car will idle as if in neutral.
Contact with local dealership & Mitsubishi Motors of NA both yeilded a "not covered under warranty" response. Dealership service rep actually commented he has seen them fail at 4k up to 40k and they're never covered. I've checked the main cylinder visible from top of engine, followed steel line out to transition to hose and find no visible leaks/residue. Check under dash and pedal/shaft through firewall shows no residue/leaks. Only place I haven't checked is underside of engine/bell housing for secondary leak/fluid residue.
Questions are as follows:
1. Has anyone successfully convinced dealership to repair a failure of this nature? 16k with single adult driver seems very short lived and sounds more like a material flaw.
2. Assuming I'm on my own, does anyone have suggestions for a non-OEM (as Mitsu's last clutch was crap) replacement clutch kit/setup that is better then OEM but reasonable for a daily driver? I'm not talking cheapest thing on the market but I also don't need a stage 5 full racing clutch. I keep seeing various kits offered from Exedy; but I haven't had any experience and yield to the masses for input.
3. Part of selection of Kit for #2 above would be question regarding how the rest of the remaining OEM parts not replaced would function; I'm looking to avoid having to replace any current factory parts because the new clutch kit has blown out the factory cylinders, over pressurized lines or just won't allow something to function.
4. Any other thoughts or input would be most welcome.
AEM cold air intake & HKS exaust w/ custom tune.
Car drove fine up until roughly two weeks ago. Noticed RPMs pulsing a bit when I'd clutch out; Over last weekend car went from what I now see as slippage to a point where I can put car in 1st, completely release clutch and car will idle as if in neutral.
Contact with local dealership & Mitsubishi Motors of NA both yeilded a "not covered under warranty" response. Dealership service rep actually commented he has seen them fail at 4k up to 40k and they're never covered. I've checked the main cylinder visible from top of engine, followed steel line out to transition to hose and find no visible leaks/residue. Check under dash and pedal/shaft through firewall shows no residue/leaks. Only place I haven't checked is underside of engine/bell housing for secondary leak/fluid residue.
Questions are as follows:
1. Has anyone successfully convinced dealership to repair a failure of this nature? 16k with single adult driver seems very short lived and sounds more like a material flaw.
2. Assuming I'm on my own, does anyone have suggestions for a non-OEM (as Mitsu's last clutch was crap) replacement clutch kit/setup that is better then OEM but reasonable for a daily driver? I'm not talking cheapest thing on the market but I also don't need a stage 5 full racing clutch. I keep seeing various kits offered from Exedy; but I haven't had any experience and yield to the masses for input.
3. Part of selection of Kit for #2 above would be question regarding how the rest of the remaining OEM parts not replaced would function; I'm looking to avoid having to replace any current factory parts because the new clutch kit has blown out the factory cylinders, over pressurized lines or just won't allow something to function.
4. Any other thoughts or input would be most welcome.
Good luck. Mitsu is really cracking down on warranty work. I am pretty sure that the clutch has a 12k warranty. I just had a problem with a clutch spring clip that mitsu damaged while replacing motor and they would not fix it. It was a big ordeal and I finally got them to pull the trans to find the problem and I brought them a used pressure plate and made them put that in at no charge.
The especially will not cover it with a tune and mods. I have read that Mitsu can tell if the ecu has been flashed even if the tune is put back to stock. That may be on the newer models. Don't know if that is true or not, something to read into.
Hope everything works out for you!!!
The especially will not cover it with a tune and mods. I have read that Mitsu can tell if the ecu has been flashed even if the tune is put back to stock. That may be on the newer models. Don't know if that is true or not, something to read into.
Hope everything works out for you!!!
I believe I saw a thread on here a long time ago regarding someone who was able to get their clutch replaced but I believe it was even lower mileage than yours. I am not sure if they would do it.
As far as replacement kits, here is a review I did on the ACT HD 6-puck sprung and streetlite flywheel. For the CMC all I did was the AMS reinforcement ring and knock on wood, its doing great. As you stated, you may not need the 6 puck but if you plan on modding in the future I recommend it. If you plan to stay where you're at I recommend the ACT street line of clutch. If I had to do it over again, I wouldn't change my clutch selection but I would just have the stock flywheel resurfaced. It will save you some bucks but your car will be down for as long as it takes for them to get around to resurface it. Which could only be a day. Its up to you. Just keep in mind that depending on your selection, CMC upgrade will eventually be a must.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...-flywheel.html
Good luck!
As far as replacement kits, here is a review I did on the ACT HD 6-puck sprung and streetlite flywheel. For the CMC all I did was the AMS reinforcement ring and knock on wood, its doing great. As you stated, you may not need the 6 puck but if you plan on modding in the future I recommend it. If you plan to stay where you're at I recommend the ACT street line of clutch. If I had to do it over again, I wouldn't change my clutch selection but I would just have the stock flywheel resurfaced. It will save you some bucks but your car will be down for as long as it takes for them to get around to resurface it. Which could only be a day. Its up to you. Just keep in mind that depending on your selection, CMC upgrade will eventually be a must.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...-flywheel.html
Good luck!
i've got the same thing happening, i noticed it driving in to work today - 4,400 miles and in any gear if i stand on it and it approaches 3-4k RPM, the RPMs jump then catch. hitting the dealer today or tomorrow to see what they say. no track, no street racing, just driving around the city and the highway very infrequently.
what does it do for the warranty by putting in an aftermarket clutch, if necessary?
thanks!
what does it do for the warranty by putting in an aftermarket clutch, if necessary?
thanks!
An aftermarket clutch will void the warranty on the rest of your drivetrain (transmission, transfer case, rear differential, etc.).
Everyone needs to remove their clutch restrictor pills ASAP!
Everyone needs to remove their clutch restrictor pills ASAP!
Trending Topics
so i shot out to the dealer after noon...there's slight slippage in any gear for about 700-800 RPM as it approaches full-tilt - which tells me it's going to be smoked sooner rather than later. the dealer guy said he could take it apart and see, but he's never had a clutch be covered under warranty because it's always due to driver use/abuse (i've only got 4,500 miles on it!), and once it's apart i've got to pay for the labor anyway. so, as kracka has just answered my question about an aftermarket clutch and warranty liability....what's the general consensus? find a good private shop, swap out the clutch, the reinforcement ring for the cmc and either resurface the flywheel or get a aftermarket one? or should i take it back to the dealer and roll the dice? thanks ahead of time.
Remove the clutch line and bleeder nipple from the slave cylinder and poke it out with a small allen wrench, then bleed the system. It's a small plastic pill and spring. Search a bit, I did a more in-depth how to on it a while back.
Evolving Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 271
Likes: 2
From: Was: Fredericksburg, Va Now: Madison, AL
Thanks in advance
Yeah, I had this issue. 9,9k miles but I was outside the 12 month limitation so no warranty replacement. Fought for 3 months with Mitsu and even went to 3rd party mediation but no go. Ended up going for a ACT HDSS clutch and haven't been happier.
As for it voiding the warranty, according to the Mistu NA person I talked to, if the claim you are submitting is caused by the non-Mitsu authorized part, then no warranty coverage. However, if it isn't related, then you should be ok. IMO, they'll just fall back on the "the ankle bone is attached to the leg bone which is attached to the hip bone, etc etc" so the problem you are having with your head isn't covered because of your ankle...
As for it voiding the warranty, according to the Mistu NA person I talked to, if the claim you are submitting is caused by the non-Mitsu authorized part, then no warranty coverage. However, if it isn't related, then you should be ok. IMO, they'll just fall back on the "the ankle bone is attached to the leg bone which is attached to the hip bone, etc etc" so the problem you are having with your head isn't covered because of your ankle...
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Jacks Transmissions
Jacks Transmissions
50
Feb 20, 2016 02:54 PM
Evolution IVGSR
For Sale - Cars For Sale
14
Sep 8, 2015 08:34 AM




