Transfer case won't go on...
Jun 24, 2012, 09:59 PM
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Transfer case won't go on...
I'm in the midst of doing my clutch on my 05 Evo. After hours fighting my trans to get it back in, I have an unusual problem now. My transfer case does not want to go on, I can line it up, and get it in position to go on to the first splines, but it will not line up and slide in at all. Am I doing someting wrong? Transfer cases on Jeeps/trucks always slid right in easily. Doing this clutch wasn't the most fun either lol, I can do a Civic in probably 2 hours, this was another story. Thanks for the help, ended up putting a Competition stage 2 and Competition flywheel in.
Last edited by Scott53092; Jun 25, 2012 at 05:40 AM.
Jun 25, 2012, 12:23 PM
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I got my tcase all lined up, but there was about 1/2in gap. I just started threading the bolts and tightening (one bottom few turns, one top few turns) I just kept going like this until it pulled itself back together. 3K miles later its just fine.
Remember prying it off? Its not just gonna slide right back on a mate with the trans. The 3 evo clutches we have installed all required us to use my method.
Just be careful and when your tightening you should be seeing the gap close. If not STOP then reset.
Remember prying it off? Its not just gonna slide right back on a mate with the trans. The 3 evo clutches we have installed all required us to use my method.
Just be careful and when your tightening you should be seeing the gap close. If not STOP then reset.
Last edited by korizmo; Jun 25, 2012 at 12:26 PM.
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Jun 25, 2012, 09:43 PM
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Got it! Took the driveshaft off and I got it instantly... made such a difference not having to worry about all the weight and uneveness caused by the ds.I'll post up pics of my old pressure plate and flywheel in a few minutes, probably the worst I've ever seen, and I'm an Acura tech and built Honda's for years so it isn't the first I've seen. The car has 23k on it, clutch started to slip in 4th gear under intial boost and then catch, and then got worse fast after a launch. I think it got heated up worse just because I still drove it for a week or two with it slipping when boost hit, and I still took it in to a boost sometimes when I got bored. Car has an fp HTA green on it, and put in a Competition stage 2 and Competition flywheel. Should be back on the road tomorrow, just have to put fluids in and my intercooler piping.
Jun 25, 2012, 09:51 PM
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Mostly back together!
Flywheel and pressure plate...they aren't even flat. You can feel the waviness from all the hot spots, and the flywheel has a slight blueish tint in a spot on the back of it. Pretty crazy, drove normal for daily driving and held power after it did its intial slip.
Flywheel and pressure plate...they aren't even flat. You can feel the waviness from all the hot spots, and the flywheel has a slight blueish tint in a spot on the back of it. Pretty crazy, drove normal for daily driving and held power after it did its intial slip.
Apr 30, 2024, 12:06 PM
#12
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Thought I'd chime in on this old thread as I was experiencing the same issue, and found this while looking for a solution. For me, getting that last little bit of alignment needed was solved by lifting up on the drive shaft, this rotates the TC a few degrees, back and forth, and eventually it all slid together.
Apr 30, 2024, 02:02 PM
#13
Thought I'd chime in on this old thread as I was experiencing the same issue, and found this while looking for a solution. For me, getting that last little bit of alignment needed was solved by lifting up on the drive shaft, this rotates the TC a few degrees, back and forth, and eventually it all slid together.
Apr 30, 2024, 02:03 PM
#14
Thought I'd chime in on this old thread as I was experiencing the same issue, and found this while looking for a solution. For me, getting that last little bit of alignment needed was solved by lifting up on the drive shaft, this rotates the TC a few degrees, back and forth, and eventually it all slid together.
Apr 30, 2024, 02:14 PM
#15
Yea for 95 percent of it but as an earlier comment states it shouldn't just slide all the way to the end without any resistance this is because the final seat is pressed together. The last half inch or so should require quite abit of pressure to fit back on slowly torquing all bolts evenly at the end mates them together. Ive removed and installed t-cases countless times and its always the case. Removing it is the same as you have to use quite abit of force to pry them apart the first inch so also.