Did this shop do my leak-down/compression test correctly?
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Did this shop do my leak-down/compression test correctly?
Hey guys,
I am pretty new here and am trying to purchase my first Evo right now. Its been quite difficult finding a clean near stock evo in the south (let alone anywhere these days). I finally found one off of facebook a couple weeks ago up north out of state (an 06 evo 9, stock motor, stock head, stock cams), spoke to the seller, and set up a pre-purchase inspection in hopes of at least getting some insight on the condition of the car. The shop completed the inspection and called me back saying things were pretty good and the body, bushings, etc. were all in good condition. But when it got down to the engine compression and leak down results, this is what I got:
Compression:
Cyl 1: 120
Cyl 2: 118
Cyl 3: 105
Cyl 4: 110
Leakdown:
Cyl 1: 30%
Cyl 2: 15%
Cyl 3: 36%
Cyl 4: 17%
Now the compression is not exactly even but its kinda close. The issue is, that is pretty low compression, especially at 105. Leakdown is REALLY high. 36% and 30% are definitely concerning. So I contacted the shop and they're saying that the motor is in fine condition and that they prefer the leakdown to be under 25% but its "Right near there" which kind of doesn't seem right because it is not all that close. They then stated that the leakdown test was done on the motor "before the test drive" and the compression was done after the car sat for 45 mins.
Basically, am I just paranoid, or does it seem kind of off that this relatively reputable shop is telling me those numbers are ok and that the motor doesn't smoke and runs healthy and that I should be fine?. Furthermore, they asked me to come in again some other day to get it done with the car at operating temps. Not going to have the seller drive another 45 mins to get this done again, especially since inspection fees are coming out of my pocket. Any help is appreciated.
I am pretty new here and am trying to purchase my first Evo right now. Its been quite difficult finding a clean near stock evo in the south (let alone anywhere these days). I finally found one off of facebook a couple weeks ago up north out of state (an 06 evo 9, stock motor, stock head, stock cams), spoke to the seller, and set up a pre-purchase inspection in hopes of at least getting some insight on the condition of the car. The shop completed the inspection and called me back saying things were pretty good and the body, bushings, etc. were all in good condition. But when it got down to the engine compression and leak down results, this is what I got:
Compression:
Cyl 1: 120
Cyl 2: 118
Cyl 3: 105
Cyl 4: 110
Leakdown:
Cyl 1: 30%
Cyl 2: 15%
Cyl 3: 36%
Cyl 4: 17%
Now the compression is not exactly even but its kinda close. The issue is, that is pretty low compression, especially at 105. Leakdown is REALLY high. 36% and 30% are definitely concerning. So I contacted the shop and they're saying that the motor is in fine condition and that they prefer the leakdown to be under 25% but its "Right near there" which kind of doesn't seem right because it is not all that close. They then stated that the leakdown test was done on the motor "before the test drive" and the compression was done after the car sat for 45 mins.
Basically, am I just paranoid, or does it seem kind of off that this relatively reputable shop is telling me those numbers are ok and that the motor doesn't smoke and runs healthy and that I should be fine?. Furthermore, they asked me to come in again some other day to get it done with the car at operating temps. Not going to have the seller drive another 45 mins to get this done again, especially since inspection fees are coming out of my pocket. Any help is appreciated.
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How many miles are on the car?
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The car has 114k miles. Not fully stock but tuned by a good tuner, bolt ons, and fuel pump.
Last edited by akeedasdi; Sep 19, 2018 at 06:23 PM.
#5
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That's pretty low for just over 100k miles. My last engine was in the 120s on three cylinders and 90 on #3. That was after 130k miles. I bought the car with 115k or so and I assume it was 90psi the whole time. Who knows how long I could have left it that way. No smoke, ran great.
I'd confirm the engine was warm when they ran the tests, just in case.
I'd confirm the engine was warm when they ran the tests, just in case.
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See that's the thing, the car sat off for 45mins+ before each test. That's not exactly warm at that point if you were to ask me. That was my first question when I got the results. It doesn't make sense for a shop to make a mistake like that so im wondering what exactly is going on. Gonna have to give them a call tomorrow. The most concerning thing to me is is that they gave me those results and then told me that the motor was fine and that, "There were no signs of smoke or anything that would lead to a hurt engine". I'm sorry but the numbers really don't match anything they're saying. The issue comes down to, whether I need to spend more money on the car by going to a different shop or if I should just pass on that car which already took me long enough to find.
(When I put anything in quotes, it's a literal copy paste from their messages)
(When I put anything in quotes, it's a literal copy paste from their messages)
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That's pretty low for just over 100k miles. My last engine was in the 120s on three cylinders and 90 on #3. That was after 130k miles. I bought the car with 115k or so and I assume it was 90psi the whole time. Who knows how long I could have left it that way. No smoke, ran great.
I'd confirm the engine was warm when they ran the tests, just in case.
I'd confirm the engine was warm when they ran the tests, just in case.
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#8
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I'm not trying to imply the shop tested it wrong....just saying I'd make sure before I drop $1000s on a fix.
Maybe they tested it cold and are basing their "okay" on cold numbers. Not that it makes any more sense...
I say drive it until it gives you a reason to worry. If it runs fine and isn't burning a ton of oil, **** it.
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It ran great for four years. I pulled it to try something out, but not because it gave me any problems.
I'm not trying to imply the shop tested it wrong....just saying I'd make sure before I drop $1000s on a fix.
Maybe they tested it cold and are basing their "okay" on cold numbers. Not that it makes any more sense...
I say drive it until it gives you a reason to worry. If it runs fine and isn't burning a ton of oil, **** it.
I'm not trying to imply the shop tested it wrong....just saying I'd make sure before I drop $1000s on a fix.
Maybe they tested it cold and are basing their "okay" on cold numbers. Not that it makes any more sense...
I say drive it until it gives you a reason to worry. If it runs fine and isn't burning a ton of oil, **** it.
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Haha thanks for the input man, let me think about it and then make a decision!