Can we setup a sticky in the Engine forum with all the available turbo kits out listed so it's easy to compare them ? Plus it will help all the xtra posts about which kit has this ect ??

 

Evo or Lancer?

 

For me EVO but if there are enough Lancer kits I'm sure it would them out also.

 

4 way to go FI on an es/ls/oz

1) RRM
2) TSI
3) Custom
4) Ripp

Anything else I'm forgetting?

 

That's about it. And RIPP is basically done with Lancers. This is why Lancer forums don't have a "what kit should I get?" sticky. Evos have more choices.

 

Heres a run down of the two most popular turbo kits out there....

1) RRM intercooled stage 1 kit - The most tried and true kit available for the lancer. Many years of research and use on customer cars. Kit consists of a t28 turbo set at 7psi, 12:1 ratio vortech FMU to control fuel management, all necessary piping, walbro 255lph fuel pump, bosch generic blow off valve (option for greddy type bovs), detailed install instructions, great customer support.

Pros - Many years of research and customer support, kit is ready to go right out of the box, Pipes are all powdercoated and nice, kit is well put together and looks good.
Cons - A bit pricey, Doesnt use dedicated turbo manifold, uses up/downpipes

2) TSI intercooled kit - Originally designed for the mirage 4g93 engine, t25 turbo, 14:1 ratio fmu (with other options for fuel control), generic instructions if any, power on a budget, many people using it with good results

Pros - Less expensive than RRM, Overall decent kit, only minor modifications needed for fitment (average mechanical abilities and know how can get it working fine), less expensive than RRM, good for people who want to substitute parts or build off of the non intercooled TSI kit to customize a bit
Cons - Needs some modifications for fitment (downpipe needs extending, need a bov and flange, oil lines may need to be upgraded/lengthened, FMIC with the intercooled kit is too big, requires bumper cutting), fmu is ok, but recommend upgrading to better fuel management and 255 walbro too

Both of these kits are worth it, it just depends on how well you think you understand the workings of a turbo kit and how mechanically inclined you are. If you want a kit that will plug and play right out of the box, go with RRM, if you want a kit that will save you money, but require minor modification, go with TSI.

The RRM stage 2 upgrade for power over the 200hp mark at the wheels ditches the fmu and upgrades the injectors to 370cc RC units, installation of the preprogrammed stage 2 RRM piggy back, and upping the boost to 8 or 9psi.

FMU
The limits of a setup with an FMU and stock injectors with an upgraded fuel pump (which is a necessity with any turbo kit) is 7psi. Do not go over unless you swap to larger injectors and a tune, the pressure will not be able to keep up in the higher RPMs and boost levels and you will run lean with the FMU.

Intercooler
You can put whatever size intercooler you want on your system, the main concern is A) pressure loss, and B) fitment. The intercooler supplied with the RRM turbo kit (18x7x3) is generally the largest intercooler that will fit behind the stock bumper without major modification. It has the best flow rating for the application as well. Anything larger that that will run into a) fitment issues requirement modification of the bumpers and or supports, and b) greater pressure loss due to less efficiency for targeted boost levels

Fuel Upgrades
For the best control over your fuel delivery and the option to upgrade boost levels, it is recommended to use an upgraded injector/piggyback system for any boost levels above 7. You can use this for boost levels below 7, but it is not necessary unless you want to be in total control of your tune. Recommended injectors are 370cc units and above, but not exceeding around 450cc unless boost levels will be over 12 psi with upgraded internals. RC makes good injectors but if you are looking for a cheaper route any top feed saturated high impedence fuel injector will fit the bill. Stock 440cc WRX injectors are a direct swap into the lancer, requiring no longer fuel rail bolts or major modification.

Fuel Control
Tuning can be achieved via a wide range of options however there are a few more commonly used methods.
SAFC - The apexi SAFC unit is simple to use once you navigate your way through the controls, and is also very good for somebody looking to make changes on the fly. The unit has been used by many people in both the lancer and evo with success. with the SAFCII unit you have control over a 12 point fuel curve at both hi and lo rpm levels, however you have no control over timing. The new SAFC Neo has a "pro" 16 point edit curve but still no timing control. The unit is ideal for someone looking to make minor to moderate fuel trim changes throughout the powerband, but not recommended for someone looking for a perfect powerband tune. The unit will give you a more general tune, still plenty acceptable for turbo applications. NOTE - THE SAFC WILL NOT, I REPEAT NOT, LET YOU VTA. THE DECEL FUNCTION DESIGNED TO FIX THIS PROBLEM ONLY WORKS ON VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH A HOT WIRE AIR FLOW SENSOR, WE HAVE A Karman Vortex AIR SYSTEM WHICH IS NOT COMPATIBLE WITH THIS FUNCTION
RRM Split Second Piggy - With the purchase of the piggy software from RRM and an appropriate laptop to piggyback cable you can edit the entire fuel map. Has more precise editing than the SAFC as well as the option to save multiple maps on your computer for future use. You can also control timing with the RRM piggyback. For more info visit this website.http://www.roadracemotorsports.com/piggyintro.htm
Greddy Emanage (bluebox) - Another piggy back like the RRM split second piggy back. Boasts the same editing capabilities as the RRM unit as well as the ability to tune your system to VTA, as well as control additional injectors or program for upgraded injectors. Some people have said that over time the emanage will burn out your coil packs, but this has not been proven and may have been due to poor installation. Many people run the system without this happening. Go here for more features...http://www.mohdparts.com/emanage/man...manual/004.JPG

Your other options are unlimited, but also get into high $ since standalone is expensive. Both the RRM Piggy and the Emanage require moderate tuning knowledge to correctly operate however can be learned with patience and reading, the SAFC is a little more user friendly (especially the neo) however is that at the expense of more fine tuning capabilities.

Blow off valve options
The design of the mitsubishi airflow system is based off of the Karman Vortex Mass air flow meter, which reads the actual flowing air through a complex air metering device. Because of this, the unit CANNOT read pressurized air accurately. IF YOU PUT YOUR MAF ON THE PRESSURIZED SIDE OF YOUR INTAKE, YOU WILL RUN LEAN AT PARTIAL THROTTLE. Sooo, we need to keep the air flow sensor on the intake side of the turbo system, which causes a problem for blow off valves venting the pressurized air to the atmosphere. Because the air was already counted at the head of the system just after the filter, when this pressurized air is blown to the atmosphere the ECU still expects it there, and the car will run super rich during idle and shifts, causing erratic idle, and stalling. Therefore the BOV needs to be "recirculated" back to the intake tract after the MAF and before the turbo. This limits your BOV selection to those that have the ability to attach a hose to the outlet which can be rerouted back to the intake tract. The most popular upgrade that works right off the shelf is the greddy type s. The BOV outlet is the same size as stock (1.25") and will slip right onto the recirculation port. However for the type s and RS you will need a flange to attach it to the stock intercooler piping (which can be bought on ebay for a few dollars). The type RS can be used however you need to purchase the optional greddy recirculation kit to swap out the bell on the unit. Other BOV's like the SSQV and other similar units have been known to cause problems even though they can be recirculated. Also dual venting BOV's (those which have 2 air outlet ports, 1 for recirc, and 1 for VTA) do help with the stalling issue, but it does not eleviate the problem completely. I suggest the Type S or RS for an aftermarket upgrade. It provides a nice sound even with the recirculation, and is adjustable.

I'm tired of typing right now, but this is a good start, i'll add more later. If anyone has anything to add feel free

 

Um, great post. Maybe copy/paste it into a new thread in the turbo section of Lancerland?

The original poster wanted to know about Evo turbo kits, though...

 

Ahh missed that post. I'm gonna start a new post in the Turbo section of the lancer forum

 

Well actually I was looking for something like that for the EVO also except with maybe dyno #'s from cars with kits and their individual setups, gas/ALK/C16 #'s would be sweet also.

 

RPW NEWBS!


one of the most comprehensive kits available and u discount it to not even making a list that includes tsi? o lord

 

Will you guys stop sh*tting on this thread?

This thread is about Evo turbo kits.

 

Thanks brother !!! Just so many new kits coming out + the major guys have more than one kit. It would be nice to have a thread were all dyno plots, kit info would be in one place ??