wher to go for Corner Balancing.....i think im goin to get the HKS Hipermax III Sport coilovers.... http://www.hksusa.com/info/?id=3409 but there is also the regualr Hipermax III

what does you guys think....

Hipermax III 8K and 7K spring rate
the III Sports 10K and 8K spring rate.

what would you guys go for?

and the reason im going for the HKS set is... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uAfyM9XHG-I if it can break records on the suspension its good enough for me and its a good price...

 

I would go for the extra lean burger drip drip

 

Go to 5th Gear in L-Ville. They are on 407 just west of 35.

Tell them John from Apex sent you. They do great work!!!

 

does that mean the sports?

 

I'm pretty sure either Cobb (see they might have something for you!) or Vorshlag does corner balancing as well.

I'll be interested what you find out since I need to do it as well.

 

The stiffest springs you can tolerate. I'm getting 12K / 10K or thereabout.

 

Best place to go. This is where we take our shop cars and I also had my vettes and other cars set up by them. Great work.

 

This is kind of an esoteric discussion here regarding spring rates... but Mark (Berry) found out something interesting this weekend (he burned up a set of slicks on the skid pad this weekend). On his particular evo (which as we all know is not the typical evo ), a balanced spring setup (so 10/10 for example) is more appropriate. The math is likely not above my head, but I can't quote it all. Something about even though the weight is front biased, because the rear struts are more inboard than the fronts that causes some sort of multiplier to be in effect that basically means the front and rear should be in sync.

Not saying that is the case for you Andrew (or me, mine supposedly are 14/14 [although now the specs say 14/12]) but it might be something to talk to Mark about.

Andrew, are you looking for a track setup? Street? Drag? What are your livability requirements? Next time we're somewhere together, take my slo-evo for a spin and see if 14/14 is too hard for you. It was great at MSR

 

A "common" winning formula is stiffer springs in the front and super stiff anti-sway in the rear. Of course if you go to equal front and rear springs then maybe you won't need the stiffer rear anti-sway... as much??? Heck if I know.

All I know is I need to talk to Mark and get more details because nothing beats postulation like proven and measurable results.

 

well i like an aggressive street set up...im 23 y/o so for now a rough ride ist bad for me. i will take its track again at some point, and i might start dragging it a little....but you know and i know i like to go on spirited drives alwell....and i guess i can change the springs at a later time if i need too...hrm...i might need to call HKS and ask if that is an option

 

It's more than just the springs. You also have to revalve the shocks to work with the springs.

I honestly think you're going to get mixed (well mostly negative) opinions on the HKS from the suspension snobs simply because they aren't from Europe. One thing that immediately stands out is the 30 way adjustments. 30 way is way too much. You want each adjustment to actually do something.

Watch this for a bit of info on it: http://www.vorshlag.smugmug.com/gall...123_zvF2u-A-LB

With $2k to spend, you might be able to get into a set of ohlins (like ratt_finkel destroyed) and have enough left over for a nice rear sway bar.

 

when they say 30 way adjustable, usually that means it is only 30 clicks on one adjustment. the "good" shocks, are going to have damping and rebound adjustment, and the really good shocks will have high and low speed damping/rebound adjustment (4 seperate adjustments you can make, each infinitely adjustable, or they have clicks which can give 15-30 "ways" to adjust each setting).

running the stiffest springs possible is not the right answer. you actually want the softest spring possible, that doesn't cause to much pitch and roll in braking, acceleration and turning. the springs are used to absorb bumps, and if you have to stiff shocks, your wheel rates will not do that. you'll bounce over the bumps causing a loss in traction (and drivers can only tolerate so much low frequency bouncing before it effects your driving). softer springs with the correct damper settings will allow you to absorb the bumps, yet not bounce (dampers remove spring energy absorbed from the bump, quickly, but not to quickly). anti-roll bars aka sway bars, are used to keep the car from rolling in turn in. the down side is to stiff a sway car and when you hit a bump with one wheel, it can lift the other side. or when you turn in with to stiff a sway bar it will lift the inside tire off the ground. ideally you don't want to use the sway bar to make your car rotate around a turn. you want to use spring rates of the shocks, proper damper settings, and wheel spacers to change track. tire pressures should be adjusted to get uniform tire wear. increasing tire pressure in the rear to make the car oversteer more is also a bad idea because your essentially reducing traction. you want the tire pressures set so that inside, outside and middle of the tires have the same temperature distribution run after run and from one side of the car to the other (obviously the inside of the tire usually will be warmer, as well as the right side wheels on a left handed course).

ultimately, you need to test stuff, if it makes you faster, stick with it. changing stuff because people tell you to, isn't always the best when it comes to suspension. formula 1 is a great example. each driver sets their own car up the way they like it. on some courses one way is obviously better then the other.

 

so u dont think i need suspension? i understand the ajustability factor....but i want some looks with performance...what are you recommending kevin...besides a $4000 set of coilovers

 

get something that is adjustable, camber, damping are both critical. the stock springs are definately to soft. and don't get hung up on having 4k dollar shocks cause 75% of the people buying coilovers have no idea what the adjustments even do i would start with something simple, but not cheap. the JIC, buddy club, apexi, hks all will be appropriate. the ohlins, penske, KW are going to be your higher end, better dampers, but not needed for the street. go with a moderate spring rate. to high and you'll hate them.

 

u can do camber and caster with the HKS....just costs $600 more http://www.hksusa.com/products/?id=2775

is that what your talking about? would that make the HKS seem better?