RnR turbo mani dyno #'s
Dec 23, 2005, 12:39 AM
#61
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Originally Posted by fsugatorbait
Exactly why you should wait to post till you actually have something. But hey, im not the one with wood I cant control.
On another note: Knock issue seems peculiar. You dont see knock much when C16 leaded gasoline is around... it just STOPS. It will be interesting to see what the cause is. Im somewhat excited to see the manifold nmbers as well even though I have no where NEAR enough money to ever buy it lol.
Dec 23, 2005, 01:11 AM
#62
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Could the knock happen because the temperature is down and the boost is spiking? Are you still running the stock turbo wastegate? Maybe the new header with the colder temp is too much for the stock IWG. I'm no mechanic so I apologize if my opinion is impossible.
Dec 23, 2005, 03:36 AM
#63
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Finally, Someone will have an answer to us within a day. Thank god Buschur finally has one of these, and we don't have to listen to stories of how great this product works. We want REAL numbers, and not testimonials.
Originally Posted by davidbuschur
Well that sucks. Been nice to have thrown it on the dyno first anyway.
Good news is my RNR header showed up from our customer today (thanks btw) and is sitting in the dyno bay waiting for me in the morning.
My RS was torn apart and I just finished putting it back together. We had the FMIC off making new i/c pipes and I sold my DMS suspension that was on it, so I just got my new suspension and installed it. I need to finish up a fast alignment in the morning then plans are to strap the car down with our ported ceramic parts on it, make a few baseline runs and then put this RNR header on.
This is my impression so far and I was probably blind and didn't see this before. If I was blind I apoligize but figure others didn't notice it either. The header requires installing a stainless steel radiator hose. I'm not too fond of it and will leave it at that. Hopefully I can find some hose at NAPA in the morning for couplings to install it as there's no way I'm cutting up my radiator hose to make couplings out of. Comes with a nice heat shield, not sure where it goes yet but it's nice.
I may just heat wrap my radiator hose and install the header, it's just a test and I don't want to get into draining the cooling system and such.
Header is nice, VERY LARGE, well built and heavy. Looking forward to giving it a 100% straight up comparison test tomorrow. Hell I'm just happy to have my car on 4 wheels again so I CAN dyno it! I was going into withdrawals.
The test will be done on pump gas and our car has the 20g-9 on it.
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
Good news is my RNR header showed up from our customer today (thanks btw) and is sitting in the dyno bay waiting for me in the morning.
My RS was torn apart and I just finished putting it back together. We had the FMIC off making new i/c pipes and I sold my DMS suspension that was on it, so I just got my new suspension and installed it. I need to finish up a fast alignment in the morning then plans are to strap the car down with our ported ceramic parts on it, make a few baseline runs and then put this RNR header on.
This is my impression so far and I was probably blind and didn't see this before. If I was blind I apoligize but figure others didn't notice it either. The header requires installing a stainless steel radiator hose. I'm not too fond of it and will leave it at that. Hopefully I can find some hose at NAPA in the morning for couplings to install it as there's no way I'm cutting up my radiator hose to make couplings out of. Comes with a nice heat shield, not sure where it goes yet but it's nice.
I may just heat wrap my radiator hose and install the header, it's just a test and I don't want to get into draining the cooling system and such.
Header is nice, VERY LARGE, well built and heavy. Looking forward to giving it a 100% straight up comparison test tomorrow. Hell I'm just happy to have my car on 4 wheels again so I CAN dyno it! I was going into withdrawals.
The test will be done on pump gas and our car has the 20g-9 on it.
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
Dec 23, 2005, 06:48 AM
#64
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I drove in on 93 pump gas with no knock issues, installed the manifold. Dynoed the car and knock was present, but I was running low on gas so we went to the gas station down the street with a gas can and got a gallon of 93 octane. I dumped in the 93, but we still had knock present.
Then we poured in about a 1/2 gallon of C16 to raise the octane level and see if the knock would go away, but it didn't.
Then I said just to be 100% positive, lest dump in 5 more gallons of C16 and we did. The car ran for about 5-10 minutes with the C16 in and then we did more pulls. STILL HAVING KNOCK PRESENT!
I as well as others listened while the car was making numerous pulls and from standing next to the car, you could not hear any strange noises coming from the engine bay. No rattles, vibrations, or severe knock.
After hours of dyno time, we pulled the car off the dyno and put it back on the lift to do an inspection. Then we drove the car on the street to see if we could tune the car on the road trying to eliminate any and all possibilities.
Maybe I can find a way to post up one of my AEM logs from a couple days ago. I don't know how to copy and post them online though.
I am going Christmas shopping now, but when I get back I will try and post up a log.
Then we poured in about a 1/2 gallon of C16 to raise the octane level and see if the knock would go away, but it didn't.
Then I said just to be 100% positive, lest dump in 5 more gallons of C16 and we did. The car ran for about 5-10 minutes with the C16 in and then we did more pulls. STILL HAVING KNOCK PRESENT!
I as well as others listened while the car was making numerous pulls and from standing next to the car, you could not hear any strange noises coming from the engine bay. No rattles, vibrations, or severe knock.
After hours of dyno time, we pulled the car off the dyno and put it back on the lift to do an inspection. Then we drove the car on the street to see if we could tune the car on the road trying to eliminate any and all possibilities.
Maybe I can find a way to post up one of my AEM logs from a couple days ago. I don't know how to copy and post them online though.
I am going Christmas shopping now, but when I get back I will try and post up a log.
Dec 23, 2005, 07:45 AM
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It's hard to believe the addition of a tubular header can cause that much new knock. Some knock due to better flow, leaner conditions, but C16 should clear that up easily. We're only looking for about 30 new whp, right? C-16 should be able to bridge that gap, as it has done on numerous other cars.
Maybe it's the harmonics of the new manifold, amplifying noise that the knock sensor is falsely calling knock.
Maybe it's the harmonics of the new manifold, amplifying noise that the knock sensor is falsely calling knock.
Dec 23, 2005, 08:19 AM
#68
Originally Posted by dubbleugly01
It's hard to believe the addition of a tubular header can cause that much new knock. Some knock due to better flow, leaner conditions, but C16 should clear that up easily. We're only looking for about 30 new whp, right? C-16 should be able to bridge that gap, as it has done on numerous other cars.
Maybe it's the harmonics of the new manifold, amplifying noise that the knock sensor is falsely calling knock.
Maybe it's the harmonics of the new manifold, amplifying noise that the knock sensor is falsely calling knock.
Dec 23, 2005, 09:12 AM
#69
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Everyone that posts non topic posts on this thread will be deleted. Let Doug look into the problem and if you have suggesstions feel free to add.
Dec 23, 2005, 10:10 AM
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Originally Posted by 94AWDcoupe
I was thinking the same thing. Harmonics must be causing false not. You should check plugs to see if knock is real.
We're all fairly confident that its not real knock... especially with such little timing being added with the use of C16. The question becomes, what's making enough noice and vibrations to cause the knock sensor to go off? Oh, and the sensor goes off at random RPMs every pull, never consistant.
Yes, I was there the whole time observing.
Dec 23, 2005, 12:25 PM
#71
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Ryan, you have a PM!
Plugs had no sign of knock. Both the old and new sets look great.
I am at TopSpeed right now typing this and we are going to put the car on the lift and double check the knock sensor for any visable damage.
We are also going to check for any small exhaust or manifold leaks.
If nothing remedies this situation, we will switch back to the stock manifold and re-dyno the car.
Thanks to everyone who has sent a PM or called me on my cell to offer assistance, it really means a lot.
Originally Posted by 94AWDcoupe
I was thinking the same thing. Harmonics must be causing false not. You should check plugs to see if knock is real.
I am at TopSpeed right now typing this and we are going to put the car on the lift and double check the knock sensor for any visable damage.
We are also going to check for any small exhaust or manifold leaks.
If nothing remedies this situation, we will switch back to the stock manifold and re-dyno the car.
Thanks to everyone who has sent a PM or called me on my cell to offer assistance, it really means a lot.
Dec 23, 2005, 12:36 PM
#72
Originally Posted by ct9a gsr
The plugs were checked for any signs of real knock or detonation... and there were none. The original BR7ES's the car had in when it came in the shop were put back into the car afterwards and it started to misfire. We put the BR8ES's back in the car and the knock was still present.
We're all fairly confident that its not real knock... especially with such little timing being added with the use of C16. The question becomes, what's making enough noice and vibrations to cause the knock sensor to go off? Oh, and the sensor goes off at random RPMs every pull, never consistant.
Yes, I was there the whole time observing.
We're all fairly confident that its not real knock... especially with such little timing being added with the use of C16. The question becomes, what's making enough noice and vibrations to cause the knock sensor to go off? Oh, and the sensor goes off at random RPMs every pull, never consistant.
Yes, I was there the whole time observing.
Good luck guys. Things like this usually work themselves out, in one way or another. Remember, the best things in life are always a challenge...
Dec 23, 2005, 01:03 PM
#74
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That is really weird about the knock. I would definitely double check everything. We have tested 4 others cars with similar mods and didn't have this problem at all. I sent you a PM and will give you a call later.
Dec 23, 2005, 01:23 PM
#75
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Update:
Update: Removed the knock sensor to check it out and actually replace it with a new one just incase it was bad. To much relief the old one was actually frayed. So we are now keeping our fingers crossed hoping that the new one fixes all the issues.
Here is a picture of the old knock sensor... you can see the exposed wires that may have touching the block causing the false readings.
Here is a picture of the old knock sensor... you can see the exposed wires that may have touching the block causing the false readings.