GiroDisc NOT SO Magic pads...
#46
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+1 I pile on the disc brake quiet like theres no tomorrow.
I've read complaint after complaint about the hawk pads and never suggest those ever. The magic pads are pretty nice, I think you should give them a shot once more with SpoolinUp's advice. Don't be shy when coating everything, really pile it on there.
For guys willing to spend a little more my #1 pic is the Ferodo 2500. Very nice feeling brake pad, quiet, last a while, and lower on dust.
Cheers!
I've read complaint after complaint about the hawk pads and never suggest those ever. The magic pads are pretty nice, I think you should give them a shot once more with SpoolinUp's advice. Don't be shy when coating everything, really pile it on there.
For guys willing to spend a little more my #1 pic is the Ferodo 2500. Very nice feeling brake pad, quiet, last a while, and lower on dust.
Cheers!
I bought front and rear Girodisk rotors with the front and rear magic pads. Just changed my front rotors and pads last night and then the rears this afternoon. Used CRC and kept the OEM shims, so far no noise. Of course I have less than 50 miles on them at the moment.
#48
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I know this is a very old thread, but perhaps some more research has been done, and someone can help me out...
I have a IX MR, and I had very worn / warped rotors and Hawk HPS pads. I decided to replace these, so I got some slotted rotors from Stop Tech, and some GiroDisc Magic pads... So far they seem to perform alright, and I haven't paid much attention as far as dust goes, but the common problem - NOISE - is what I'm trying to figure out... I've only had them on about a week, and I have done a number of hard stops. They seem to perform rather well initially, but they get hot fast and give that mushy / fade feeling, do other people have this issue as well?
I see a mixed review of the noise issue, and some have this issue and it goes away, and it looks like some don't have it at all or they have it and it never goes away. Anyone know how likely is it that this noise will go away on my setup? It's the low speed, 5mph and lower range, where it gets VERY noisy and people in traffic get freaked out.
Any suggestions / info is much appreciated.
Trevor
I have a IX MR, and I had very worn / warped rotors and Hawk HPS pads. I decided to replace these, so I got some slotted rotors from Stop Tech, and some GiroDisc Magic pads... So far they seem to perform alright, and I haven't paid much attention as far as dust goes, but the common problem - NOISE - is what I'm trying to figure out... I've only had them on about a week, and I have done a number of hard stops. They seem to perform rather well initially, but they get hot fast and give that mushy / fade feeling, do other people have this issue as well?
I see a mixed review of the noise issue, and some have this issue and it goes away, and it looks like some don't have it at all or they have it and it never goes away. Anyone know how likely is it that this noise will go away on my setup? It's the low speed, 5mph and lower range, where it gets VERY noisy and people in traffic get freaked out.
Any suggestions / info is much appreciated.
Trevor
#49
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As someone mentioned earlier, after bedding the pads, you should see a bluish tint on the rotors. If you don't your not bedding them properly. I too thought I did bed them properly until I reread some of the threads on here and it's suppose to smell like something is burning. That will also take out that lip the oe brembo pads make because they are a bit smaller
#51
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If you still don't have any issues with the disc brake quit, you can try anti sieze (sp?). I cover the entire backing of the pad with it so it kind of acts as a noise absorber and have 0 issues with my magic pads. Been using this method for about 9 years and have not had a single issue on any cars I used it on.
#52
Bringing this up for the graveyard..
So after initially installing these pads on my car without any RTV copper sealant between shim and piston I got horrendous squealing. So I re seal all the pads (even in between the shims) around all edges, and a huge amount between shim and pistons and I am still getting a loud squeal from the back right now. It seems to only come after pad has warmed up. I bedded the pads in twice already following Smike's method and now I am going to re seal the back right again...smh
I am using the Shims that came with pads and RTV Copper sealant. Now it does bite harder than my old axxis pads but the noise is sooo annoying.
Any ideas?
Thanks
So after initially installing these pads on my car without any RTV copper sealant between shim and piston I got horrendous squealing. So I re seal all the pads (even in between the shims) around all edges, and a huge amount between shim and pistons and I am still getting a loud squeal from the back right now. It seems to only come after pad has warmed up. I bedded the pads in twice already following Smike's method and now I am going to re seal the back right again...smh
I am using the Shims that came with pads and RTV Copper sealant. Now it does bite harder than my old axxis pads but the noise is sooo annoying.
Any ideas?
Thanks
#53
Evolved Member
iTrader: (18)
Bringing this up for the graveyard..
So after initially installing these pads on my car without any RTV copper sealant between shim and piston I got horrendous squealing. So I re seal all the pads (even in between the shims) around all edges, and a huge amount between shim and pistons and I am still getting a loud squeal from the back right now. It seems to only come after pad has warmed up. I bedded the pads in twice already following Smike's method and now I am going to re seal the back right again...smh
I am using the Shims that came with pads and RTV Copper sealant. Now it does bite harder than my old axxis pads but the noise is sooo annoying.
Any ideas?
Thanks
So after initially installing these pads on my car without any RTV copper sealant between shim and piston I got horrendous squealing. So I re seal all the pads (even in between the shims) around all edges, and a huge amount between shim and pistons and I am still getting a loud squeal from the back right now. It seems to only come after pad has warmed up. I bedded the pads in twice already following Smike's method and now I am going to re seal the back right again...smh
I am using the Shims that came with pads and RTV Copper sealant. Now it does bite harder than my old axxis pads but the noise is sooo annoying.
Any ideas?
Thanks
why are you using RTV sealant? Ever time you take the pads out, btw, you have changed the microscopic position of the grooves that were already formed in the pad/rotor. Essentially, any time you take those pads off, you are installing used pads onto a used rotor, and you'll have a problem every single time. you need to use the proper chemicals, not RTV sealant
I've ran my magic pads for 10k+ with their rotors and haven't had a single issue, no squeaks, nothing. You gotta do the basics:
-if you replace pad, replace rotor, and vice versa
-don't take out a pad and put it back in, you can't rebed a pad and expect much
-only use actual brake lube, not RTV
Last edited by ikt; Feb 14, 2013 at 07:12 PM.
#54
well you've basically gouged the crap of your pads, and used so much silicone that it won't seat back into the proper positions once it's warm because there's too much gunk in the way.
why are you using RTV sealant? Ever time you take the pads out, btw, you have changed the microscopic position of the grooves that were already formed in the pad/rotor. Essentially, any time you take those pads off, you are installing used pads onto a used rotor, and you'll have a problem every single time. you need to use the proper chemicals, not RTV sealant
I've ran my magic pads for 10k+ with their rotors and haven't had a single issue, no squeaks, nothing. You gotta do the basics:
-if you replace pad, replace rotor, and vice versa
-don't take out a pad and put it back in, you can't rebed a pad and expect much
-only use actual brake lube, not RTV
why are you using RTV sealant? Ever time you take the pads out, btw, you have changed the microscopic position of the grooves that were already formed in the pad/rotor. Essentially, any time you take those pads off, you are installing used pads onto a used rotor, and you'll have a problem every single time. you need to use the proper chemicals, not RTV sealant
I've ran my magic pads for 10k+ with their rotors and haven't had a single issue, no squeaks, nothing. You gotta do the basics:
-if you replace pad, replace rotor, and vice versa
-don't take out a pad and put it back in, you can't rebed a pad and expect much
-only use actual brake lube, not RTV
l
"From the shop manual :
The stock grease dries out in no time with the temperatures that these brakes tend to reach... this copper anti-seize lubricant is rated up to 1800*F!!
Properly lubricating these areas makes for less brake noise (dampens vibrations) and prevents RAIL to PAD rusting and seizing ... (see next pic) "
So you are saying pretty much I am SOL and I should have replaced the pad and rotor at the same time (which I always do except for this time...smh)
Is there anything I can do now to make the noise go away besides replacing rotor?
Good info btw
#55
Evolved Member
iTrader: (18)
Well the RTV Copper anti seize I got is from this thread https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...brake-pads.htm
l
"From the shop manual :
The stock grease dries out in no time with the temperatures that these brakes tend to reach... this copper anti-seize lubricant is rated up to 1800*F!!
Properly lubricating these areas makes for less brake noise (dampens vibrations) and prevents RAIL to PAD rusting and seizing ... (see next pic) "
So you are saying pretty much I am SOL and I should have replaced the pad and rotor at the same time (which I always do except for this time...smh)
Is there anything I can do now to make the noise go away besides replacing rotor?
Good info btw
l
"From the shop manual :
The stock grease dries out in no time with the temperatures that these brakes tend to reach... this copper anti-seize lubricant is rated up to 1800*F!!
Properly lubricating these areas makes for less brake noise (dampens vibrations) and prevents RAIL to PAD rusting and seizing ... (see next pic) "
So you are saying pretty much I am SOL and I should have replaced the pad and rotor at the same time (which I always do except for this time...smh)
Is there anything I can do now to make the noise go away besides replacing rotor?
Good info btw
Take your rotors down to autozone or wherever and get them turned. Get that SEALANT off and put some LUBE on. Rebed your pads on the freshly turned rotors and I bet you'll be okay. Rotor turning shouldn't cost more than 15-20 each side, and the lube you can buy for a few bucks in a little packet. It's purple, and you don't need more thank a nickel sized dollop and you should be okay man.
I have EBC, Brembo, and Girodisc pads and rotors. Girodisc are by far the best bang for the buck. For a performance oriented brake pad, they are extremely forgiving. That's why I think you'll be okay on the rotor turn and re-bed with the proper stuff.
#56
LUBRICANT not SEALANT bro!
Take your rotors down to autozone or wherever and get them turned. Get that SEALANT off and put some LUBE on. Rebed your pads on the freshly turned rotors and I bet you'll be okay. Rotor turning shouldn't cost more than 15-20 each side, and the lube you can buy for a few bucks in a little packet. It's purple, and you don't need more thank a nickel sized dollop and you should be okay man.
I have EBC, Brembo, and Girodisc pads and rotors. Girodisc are by far the best bang for the buck. For a performance oriented brake pad, they are extremely forgiving. That's why I think you'll be okay on the rotor turn and re-bed with the proper stuff.
Take your rotors down to autozone or wherever and get them turned. Get that SEALANT off and put some LUBE on. Rebed your pads on the freshly turned rotors and I bet you'll be okay. Rotor turning shouldn't cost more than 15-20 each side, and the lube you can buy for a few bucks in a little packet. It's purple, and you don't need more thank a nickel sized dollop and you should be okay man.
I have EBC, Brembo, and Girodisc pads and rotors. Girodisc are by far the best bang for the buck. For a performance oriented brake pad, they are extremely forgiving. That's why I think you'll be okay on the rotor turn and re-bed with the proper stuff.
Thanks again for all the great info!
#57
Evolved Member
iTrader: (18)
I really dont think another 100 miles is gonna make a difference on the pads, they're pretty forgiving. I went through a similar mess, swapping rotors after doing pads, and honestly, I never even bedded them in-they're just fine. I just bolted and went, then I turned my rotors after I switched them out, and that was like 7k miles ago. I think you'll be fine.
I used the OEM shims and stuff called Permatex....(runs to garage)...ceramic extreme brake parts lubricant
#59
Evolving Member
I JUST had these pads installed on my 2010 Lancer Evo. They have been on 4 days and not one sound out of them yet. Only time will tell but so far so good. If anyone wants an "updated" review of the pads in the future, just send me a PM.
Lando
Lando
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