BOV, Shiv?
What about the 1g all metal..have seen a few people with that one and no problems..but don't see alot of people on this board talking about it. Everyone's input would be helpful. Am running this one in my 98' GST..seems to work fine.
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hmm not sure but I talked with vishnu again and they told me the the forge recirce BOV is the one they use.. On a side note has anyone seen the new greedy type rs? Not sure if you can recirc it. But it looks purrrrdy..
Originally Posted by EidolaDream
hmm not sure but I talked with vishnu again and they told me the the forge recirce BOV is the one they use..
^^^ this does not surprise me
I have found that a lot of owners want the valve to stay shut and "hold boost" ....
Because this is the mindset the first logical step would be a really strong spring right?
I have found that the area that needs addressing is the transition between pressure and vaccume...the softer the spring the more easily the valve is able to transition...this ease of tansition eliminates compressor surge...because the valve is able to quickly evacuate pressure from the system when the throttle is closed.
I have found that a weak spring does not mean boost leak...In fact the force that holds the valve shut under boost is mainly done by the small pressure line at the top of the valve....so under boost the pressure either side of the valve is nearly equal..requiring only a small amount of spring pressure to maintain a seal.
I have found that a lot of owners want the valve to stay shut and "hold boost" ....
Because this is the mindset the first logical step would be a really strong spring right?
I have found that the area that needs addressing is the transition between pressure and vaccume...the softer the spring the more easily the valve is able to transition...this ease of tansition eliminates compressor surge...because the valve is able to quickly evacuate pressure from the system when the throttle is closed.
I have found that a weak spring does not mean boost leak...In fact the force that holds the valve shut under boost is mainly done by the small pressure line at the top of the valve....so under boost the pressure either side of the valve is nearly equal..requiring only a small amount of spring pressure to maintain a seal.
Last edited by Dyno4mance; Feb 7, 2005 at 06:58 AM.
Originally Posted by Dyno4mance
^^^ this does not surprise me
I have found that a lot of owners want the valve to stay shut and "hold boost" ....
Because this is the mindset the first logical step would be a really strong spring right?
I have found that the area that needs addressing is the transition between pressure and vaccume...the softer the spring the more easily the valve is able to transition...this ease of tansition eliminates compressor surge...because the valve is able to quickly evacuate pressure from the system when the throttle is closed.
I have found that a weak spring does not mean boost leak...In fact the force that holds the valve shut under boost is mainly done by the small pressure line at the top of the valve....so under boost the pressure either side of the valve is nearly equal..requiring only a small amount of spring pressure to maintain a seal.
I have found that a lot of owners want the valve to stay shut and "hold boost" ....
Because this is the mindset the first logical step would be a really strong spring right?
I have found that the area that needs addressing is the transition between pressure and vaccume...the softer the spring the more easily the valve is able to transition...this ease of tansition eliminates compressor surge...because the valve is able to quickly evacuate pressure from the system when the throttle is closed.
I have found that a weak spring does not mean boost leak...In fact the force that holds the valve shut under boost is mainly done by the small pressure line at the top of the valve....so under boost the pressure either side of the valve is nearly equal..requiring only a small amount of spring pressure to maintain a seal.
Originally Posted by Dyno4mance
^^^ this does not surprise me
I have found that a lot of owners want the valve to stay shut and "hold boost" ....
Because this is the mindset the first logical step would be a really strong spring right?
I have found that the area that needs addressing is the transition between pressure and vaccume...the softer the spring the more easily the valve is able to transition...this ease of tansition eliminates compressor surge...because the valve is able to quickly evacuate pressure from the system when the throttle is closed.
I have found that a weak spring does not mean boost leak...In fact the force that holds the valve shut under boost is mainly done by the small pressure line at the top of the valve....so under boost the pressure either side of the valve is nearly equal..requiring only a small amount of spring pressure to maintain a seal.
I have found that a lot of owners want the valve to stay shut and "hold boost" ....
Because this is the mindset the first logical step would be a really strong spring right?
I have found that the area that needs addressing is the transition between pressure and vaccume...the softer the spring the more easily the valve is able to transition...this ease of tansition eliminates compressor surge...because the valve is able to quickly evacuate pressure from the system when the throttle is closed.
I have found that a weak spring does not mean boost leak...In fact the force that holds the valve shut under boost is mainly done by the small pressure line at the top of the valve....so under boost the pressure either side of the valve is nearly equal..requiring only a small amount of spring pressure to maintain a seal.
yup, and this would also be the same as to why people get decent results running the single spring mod on the Type S.
