I was wondering at what point we should look into a new BOV over the stocker. The reason I ask is shiv will be tuneing my car on dyno days, I asume a limit to his tune would be the stock diverter vavle.. This made me think, at what point do you suggest an aftermarket BOV ? Andrew from dyno4mance suggest the stock is good from anywhere in the feild of 25-27ish psi. As of now im running xede, catless turbo back exhast, Fuel pump, cam gears, and 272/272 camshafts. AKA vishnu stage 1 sig +..Also what kind of BOV are you seeing the best results with? Not wanting to get a new BOV if its not needed due to all the problems aftermarket is haveing.

Anyways thanks in advance.
B

 

I bought the MR DV right when I got the car. I believe it is the same as stock, but a steel construction. I can feel it hold boost a lot better over stock. I got mine from Gruppe-S for $120 shipped. Great product. Just my .02

 

i was just looking through this section for a BOV that someone recommended to me that was around 150. but i can't find it. anyone know what im talking about?

 

I have a Japanese MR DV, but it surges under extremely light throttle let off in high gears. Drives me flippin' nuts. Even with Stage 1+++, I'm strongly considering going back to stock and saving the MR valve if I go drag racing or something.

 

how can you tell that its fluttering without taking the intake off?

 

you feel it

 

yeah my Forge valve vents to atmosphere, and it flutters a tiny bit under the same conditions but so did the stock one just not quite as bad. Otherwise it doesnt flutter and holds boost like a beast and doesnt stall. $170.

 

The car bucks when you let off the throttle. It doesn't do it at WOT at all, just partial throttle. Before the MR DV, I had te Forge unit, and it surged unbelievably. There is no way I could live with that on a day to day basis. One nice thing about the stock valve is that its operation is almost invisible. It almost feels like you're driving an NA car.

 

Unless you are running above 25psi IMO It may be plastic and look cheap (like the interior) but if it works, it seems currently.... stock is best

 

If I am to trust my Omori boost gauge, the stock one is "leaking" a little less than a pound psi at 22-23lbs compared to my tightly set Greddy type s. Not much, but I believe it does slightly leak.

I need to try the test on my race gas map. That would be much more conclusive.

 

I am running my Type S. That seems to do its job, but I was at the last dyno day at dyno4mance, and Shiv told one guy to ditch the MR and put the Forge on. It helped hold his boost and him achieve alittle better numbers.

 

The MR works fine for me, but like noize said, you get the occasional flutter under light throttle when you let off lightly.

 

I've got a recirculated hks ssqv. it obviously holds fine. I've got surge maybe once or twice cruising. I do have a little stuble, every once and a while, when the engine is coming back down to idle, but I can tell when it's gonna do it and I just keep my revs around 1k rpms for sec and it doesn't do it. I think if I was to get the hks eids(i think thats what it's called) I could adjust the idle to compensate for it.

-Chad-

 

So I called vishnu and talked to kevin I think and he said any recirc vavle would be needed (or recominded) at stage 1 sig + He suggested type s, I asked about forge but he didnt seem to thrilled about it..

I was wondering what some of the other takes on this are.
B

 

Im going to do some pill and crush testing on the MR valve. I took the forge off my 1+, drove me nuts and no amount of pills or spring combos were to my liking. Maybe a custom spring is needed but that is a pain. Also testing a proto DV that a customer sent in and will send it to Andrew to see what he thinks