Guys I need your help. I just installed my Stage 1 Xflash and now I am getting SES P0304. I am getting the code 99% of the time during idle with no apparent misfire. I have been in contact with Vishnu and they have been great with advice on what to check. At this point I have done the following things:

1. Switched to NGK BR8ES plugs gapped to .024
2. Checked cam gears and crankshaft pulley timing. All ok.
3. Swapped the number 2 and number 4 spark plug coils. After this I had the P0300 then back to the P0304. So, I guess not the coils.

I am just getting the P0304 now.

Vishnu advised me to check the voltage of the spark next. Then a compression check of the cylinders. I am going to do this next.

I am worried that I may have a problem with the number 4 cylinder and want to get it checked out at the dealership. When I pulled out the stock plugs, they all looked the same including the #4 plug. They were all a tan color.

My questions are:

1. Should I be worried that I may damage the car at this point? I have a code reader and have been resetting the code several times a day. It comes on almost every time the car idles.

2. Is there any other advise anyone has to trouble shoot this issue? I have read most of the P0300 threads and some were cured by the dealership changing plugs, wires and coils or injectors.

3. If I go to the dealership, should I tell them I have the Stage 1? I ask because, I understand that if they flash my ECU that I won't be able to have Vishnu Xflash my car back to Stage 1.


I want to exhaust all my options before I go to the dealership. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

I also wanted to say that the Stage 1 is great and that Vishnu is the best!!

 

I get the P0300 at idle also, though only after my cams were installed. Car runs like a raped ape, no way I'll ever take it to Mitsu for a fix of an overzealous OBDII sensor. The solution I have right now is a CReader code reader zip-tied under the dash.

I can't stand the light, and I know that by resetting it I'm not seeing any other potential codes, but oh well, not like we have a warranty anyway. Once I'm back from Korea I'll try and troubleshoot in by playing with plug wires and spark plugs, et al. I think someone on the norcal evo board had some measure of success with the "new" factory reflash (version 2 is out apparently). Let me know if you find the culprit, as I've read several other people experiencing the 0300 only at idle as opposed to everyone else who gets it under light load cruise conditions accompanied by hesitation.

 

Thanks Dude. I 'll let you know what I find out if I take it to the dealership. I think with my situation, it may be a specific cause other than the knock sensor since it is in one cylinder #4 all the time.

 

Anyone else have the P030x codes?? Thoughts, ideas? I know some of you must be dealing with this also.

 

After getting my cams installed, I've been getting random P0300 codes. It'll go off on average maybe once a week, so far. It seems to be random, and most often it goes off right when I start the car. Maybe it has to do with a poor ignition system?

I wonder if getting some new wires would help..

 

I am beginning to think it is the spark plug wires or coils or a plugged injector. I am going to check the voltages to see if they are in spec. Every time I drive the car, the P0304 comes up at idle. I don't get the P0300, just the P0304.

 

i keep getting p0300 too, but I get it when im just cruising in 5th at about 3500rpm on the freeway, it usually takes 3 or 4 days to come back,. any else have any fix for this?

 

Plug in a CReader (available off of e-bay for $50-60). It seems to get rid of the infamous P0300 code while still allowing primary codes to come through. Just plug it in and forget about it. It's a useful diagnostic too as well. We just ordered a bunch of them and should be getting them really soon.

Cheers,
Shiv

 

so what exactly does that do, just doesnt show the p0300 code? if so, then what your saying is the random misfire code is not something that can do damage to the car? thanks for your advice Shiv

 

It actually just reads the OBDII code from the diagnostic port and then clears all codes, and it does this every start-up or ignition-on event. This is a band aid fix that essentially accomplishes the same thing the factory reflash attempts; ignoring the ECU's false misfire codes from engine/transmission harmonics. You won't know if you're getting any other codes in addition to the P030x codes unless you periodically look at the Reader. FWIW the CReader is nice because it is small and cheap and can be left plugged into the diagnostic port. It first cycles through all codes on the visual display and then clears them after about 5 seconds.

I think the jury is still out on what "actually" causes the code in the first place. The light load cruise P0300 seems to be different than the idle P0300 that some (myself included) are experiencing. The first was rumored to be from transmission frequencies tripping the sensor, but the idle one appears to be new and often directly related to camshaft installation. The main difference being the P0300 light load symptoms normally include a noticeable engine "hiccup" accompanied by the ECU pulling timing and the engine not wanting to boost as a result. The funny thing is that these cars will often experience the same symptoms repeatedly until they clear the code, and then the car runs fine for a while before the code reappears. At least that's what I got from reading all the other threads on it. The idle P0300 on the other hand, only comes on at idle, and not light load cruise conditions and is not met with any engine "hiccups" at all, and the code has no negative effects on engine performance save an annoying orange light in your face.

Anyone try V3 firmware with the idle P0300 to see if that helps? Shiv, any technical insight into these 2 different situations?

 

first thanks Dude, second Shiv, any technical insight into these 2 different situations would be appretiated

 

Shiv,

Can I still get the Xflash if the dealer flashes my car for the P0300 code?

 

Nope. Mitsu wipes out any previous flashes you may have had and then locks the ECU from being flashed again. I don't think any tuners have successfully flashed an ECU after the dealer reflash. Read somewhere works was "working" on one, but haven't heard anything definite.

 

I wonder if the Xede will work after the dealer locks out the ECU?

 

Yes, Xede will still work fine. You just won't have a higher rev and boost cut limit.