SMART and Intakes
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SMART and Intakes
Hello Vishnu crew. Will SMART be able to control an intake that flows more than the stock one? Have you guys tried? and of course has my SMART shipped yet
Sigfrid

Sigfrid
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Evolving Member
iTrader: (5)
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 328
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From: Just moved to Denver
Intakes
If it helps, why would we want to stick with the stock one? I would think a free flowing cold air intake would help top end a lot and if the SMART feature can custom tune for it, that would be perfect. Now, it could also be that the intake would mess up the SMART feature which in turn would mess with the whole system just like it does today. It would be nice for Shiv or David or Calvin to give us direction.
Thanks,
Sigfrid
Thanks,
Sigfrid
Because in all of the testing we have done, we haven't found that they actually do help. If you think about it, OE manufactures spend a ton of money to make sure their cars get the best gas mileage possible, and pass CA SMOG with ease. One of the elements in this quest is making the air intake flow as much air as possible, as easy as possible. With that said, the factory air box flows great. How great? 600hp great. Obviously power can be found by replacing the restrictive factory exhaust that is choked up by cats, and noise minimizing devices.
Ok, so why do air intakes make power on the dyno?
Simple, when these dyno results are released, they are generally always of a stock car, with just an intake. Since intakes generally induce false MAF readings, the fuel mixture is generally leaned out. When the fuel leaning is done through the computer, the gains seen on the stock car generally disappear.
Furthermore, how many of you guys drive with your hoods up?
I mean, I know I do from time to time, but its not safe, nor does it look cool. With that said, that is the configuration your car is in when you are on the dyno. Meaning that the "cold air" intake you just put on is actually getting cold air. However, with the hood down, the open element filter is now stuck in a box with a 2000 degree exhaust manifold, sucking in air that the radiator just transferred heat into.
I might be crazy, but for me it makes more sense to be sucking air in BEFORE the radiator, not after it.
Not trying to start a war here, just offering a little comfort to those who still have their stock air box in place.
Ok, so why do air intakes make power on the dyno?
Simple, when these dyno results are released, they are generally always of a stock car, with just an intake. Since intakes generally induce false MAF readings, the fuel mixture is generally leaned out. When the fuel leaning is done through the computer, the gains seen on the stock car generally disappear.
Furthermore, how many of you guys drive with your hoods up?
I mean, I know I do from time to time, but its not safe, nor does it look cool. With that said, that is the configuration your car is in when you are on the dyno. Meaning that the "cold air" intake you just put on is actually getting cold air. However, with the hood down, the open element filter is now stuck in a box with a 2000 degree exhaust manifold, sucking in air that the radiator just transferred heat into.Not trying to start a war here, just offering a little comfort to those who still have their stock air box in place.
Originally Posted by ruzs
If it helps, why would we want to stick with the stock one?
Sigfrid
Sigfrid
BUT, BUT it doesn't sound as cool.
what about with the stock air induction tube with an aftermarket filter? that help with the hot air at all?
i am running my intake so i could get an upper IC pipe with less bends for a better BOV. I find comfort(even though it looks retarded) in running the 'ram air' tube pushing cooler air(nothing is cool air down here....my gawd) to the intake.
what about with the stock air induction tube with an aftermarket filter? that help with the hot air at all?
i am running my intake so i could get an upper IC pipe with less bends for a better BOV. I find comfort(even though it looks retarded) in running the 'ram air' tube pushing cooler air(nothing is cool air down here....my gawd) to the intake.
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This is what I tell to people that want the cool sound. Record some wav files on to a CD and play them while you drive =P.
But seriously like Dustin, the stock airbox is the most efficent design for the car. Air temp and airflow meters are designed for the stock box. Common knowledge is that more cold dense air = more power, true in most cases.
But in this case, any cold air that gets past the HOT HOT HOT turbo will be... not so cold. Just some insight... I could be wrong ~_^
But seriously like Dustin, the stock airbox is the most efficent design for the car. Air temp and airflow meters are designed for the stock box. Common knowledge is that more cold dense air = more power, true in most cases.
But in this case, any cold air that gets past the HOT HOT HOT turbo will be... not so cold. Just some insight... I could be wrong ~_^
Originally Posted by Dustin@Vishnu
[color=black][size=2]Because in all of the testing we have done, we haven't found that they actually do help. If you think about it, OE manufactures spend a ton of money to make sure their cars get the best gas mileage possible, and pass CA SMOG with ease. One of the elements in this quest is making the air intake flow as much air as possible, as easy as possible. With that said, the factory air box flows great. How great? 600hp great. Obviously power can be found by replacing the restrictive factory exhaust that is choked up by cats, and noise minimizing devices
Wow, so you're saying that the OE airbox is the best design since they put tons of money and R&D into making it, but yet the rest of the parts of the engine wasn't designed to be the best since replacing various other parts can make more power.
They got the airbox right, but not the cat-back, downpipe, cat-con, cams, etc.? Is that what you're saying?
How is it optimal for an intake design to force the air to make 3 90 degree turns before it even reaches the MAF?
Yes I am saying that.
The cams, catback, downpipe are all required to meet certain restrictions that the intake does not. For instance, EPA standards require that the factory cat work extremely efficiently in regards of meeting clean air standards. Obviously there is some head room to play with in there. Furthermore, cat back exhausts are required to meet the OEs noise specifications. That means they use smaller pipes, and more restrictive mufflers. The cams too need to be extremely toned down for EPA, and OE standards and expectations of idle quality. But what constraints are placed on the way the OE manufactures are required to pull air into the turbo? None, so to speak.
Like I said, this is an extremely touchy subject on the internet, but as they say, "everyone is entitled to an opinion." Even me.
The cams, catback, downpipe are all required to meet certain restrictions that the intake does not. For instance, EPA standards require that the factory cat work extremely efficiently in regards of meeting clean air standards. Obviously there is some head room to play with in there. Furthermore, cat back exhausts are required to meet the OEs noise specifications. That means they use smaller pipes, and more restrictive mufflers. The cams too need to be extremely toned down for EPA, and OE standards and expectations of idle quality. But what constraints are placed on the way the OE manufactures are required to pull air into the turbo? None, so to speak.
Like I said, this is an extremely touchy subject on the internet, but as they say, "everyone is entitled to an opinion." Even me.
Last edited by Dustin@Vishnu; Jul 26, 2005 at 02:48 PM. Reason: 'Cause.
Originally Posted by ruzs
If it helps, why would we want to stick with the stock one? I would think a free flowing cold air intake would help top end a lot and if the SMART feature can custom tune for it, that would be perfect. Now, it could also be that the intake would mess up the SMART feature which in turn would mess with the whole system just like it does today. It would be nice for Shiv or David or Calvin to give us direction.
Thanks,
Sigfrid
Thanks,
Sigfrid
Hardy har har.
Originally Posted by mhgsx
They got the airbox right, but not the cat-back, downpipe, cat-con, cams, etc.? Is that what you're saying?
Dustin, Calvin, Shiv:
What about intakes like the Apexi and HKS Kansai Service that 'box' in the freer breathing element, protecting it from the hot air in the compartment?
What is it about the more open element filters that causes the mis-read by the MAF? Is it that the sensor can not handle/is not calibrated for the volume of air going through it? Air tumble induced/not induced by the open element filter? Length of path of the airflow after the filter?
I know the Bosch MAF's used in BMW's are sensitive to how far the air flow has run straight before going through it...no bends immediatley before it gives a good reading...and there are large gains made in those cars with the elimination of the stock box, IF it is shielded from the surrounding engine compartment. But BMW is not known for a wonderfully efficient intake, either...
And what about the benefits of reticulated foam filters (i.e. ITG) that see a significantly lower decrease in volume of air passed as they start to build up particle load vs. paper and gauze/oiled filters that see much sharper decreases in volume passed? (Not to mention how much an improperly serviced gauze/oiled filter can screw up an MAF...) These filters are not usually found as drop-ins for the stock box.
If only I could generate answers as easily as questions...
What about intakes like the Apexi and HKS Kansai Service that 'box' in the freer breathing element, protecting it from the hot air in the compartment?
What is it about the more open element filters that causes the mis-read by the MAF? Is it that the sensor can not handle/is not calibrated for the volume of air going through it? Air tumble induced/not induced by the open element filter? Length of path of the airflow after the filter?
I know the Bosch MAF's used in BMW's are sensitive to how far the air flow has run straight before going through it...no bends immediatley before it gives a good reading...and there are large gains made in those cars with the elimination of the stock box, IF it is shielded from the surrounding engine compartment. But BMW is not known for a wonderfully efficient intake, either...
And what about the benefits of reticulated foam filters (i.e. ITG) that see a significantly lower decrease in volume of air passed as they start to build up particle load vs. paper and gauze/oiled filters that see much sharper decreases in volume passed? (Not to mention how much an improperly serviced gauze/oiled filter can screw up an MAF...) These filters are not usually found as drop-ins for the stock box.
If only I could generate answers as easily as questions...




