Hi guys,

Here's a basic walk-through/tutorial on the SMART XEDE:

http://www.vishnutuning.com/secret/S...20Tutorial.doc

It is reasonably basic and will be updated/elaborated upon on a daily basis as more people express what areas need to be clarified/expounded upon.

Attached is the full featured map (10 tables!) that is exampled in the tutorial. It can be safely used in any SMART-equipped 03-05 Stg 1 or Stg 1+. Give it a try if you have such a car.

Do NOT use this map without the necessary SMART hardware installed and functional.

After reading this tutorial, please post any questions/comments you may have on the SMART system in this thread.

Regards,
shiv

 

AFRs. Explain 'em.

EDIT: Oh, and closed loop boost control: what's the deal?

d

 

and knock values.

 

Yep, explain the knock values...the ones in my commslog go WAY higher than the ones in the smart timing map (y axis).

Also, I don't see how if the AFR %'s are calibrated incorrectly, this isn't a bad thing? I don't want my car running 10:1 AFRs up high and thats what the smart fueling is trying to do based on the table that you posted (and the fact that my car, despite me fighting it, now dips into the 10s where it used to run a solid 11.2 or so from 5500 on).

 

Can somebody convert this to smething that my cheapass comp. will recognize.

 

Wow! Awesome write up. I now have some confidence in being able to install my SMART.

Thanks Shiv.

 

On the SMART map table I raised the 0 "happy zone" to allow somewhat leaner mixtures to be run. Should this simply not be done? I am running a pretty consistent 10.0-10.4 above 4000 I think with the table as it was stock. I have tried to lean out the base map some in small increments, but the SMART fuel map keeps trying to correct, if I continue to work on the base map will the SMART eventually allow me to lean things out some? Even with the changed table Commlog is showing 10.4-10.6 in the upper RPM ranges. Would a different displacement/better breathing head cause the SMART fuel table to be off some due to it measuring through the MAF and the engine having a different VE? It just seems that running that rich is leaving a lot of safe (i.e. 11.0-11.3) power out there.

Also, after highlighting the SMART threshold table and looking at it, I am not even getting above 40% so that it is enabled until 4000-4500 RPM or more depending on the gear. I lowered it to the 25% range I think (will put it back tomorrow) because I mistakenly thought that then the SMART would be doing more smart things. I guess it really needs to be 41% or greater, not 30-35% to be effective? I was just worried about lean conditions before it crossed the 40% threshold.

Thanks for taking the time to answer questions, it really helps us out. Could you post up what you would consider a good A/F map for us to immulate, or are all cars just to different? I do not know at what rate the A/F should transition from higher AFR's to lower. Likse if you are at 2000 RPM and you nail the throttle should the AFR immediatly drop to say 11.3 or should it make a desent like go to 12.5@2500, 12.0@3000, 11.5@4000, 11.2@4500 etc? I gues once the AFR's for the particular cell are set up, like say 11.2@4500 then it would immediatly drop to that number once the turbo spools, I simply do not know how the gradient should look from say a 1800 RPM punch in third up through the range.

Thanks again for the help.

 

your AFR is going to be lean in the lower RPM ranges.

and there rreally isn't a lot of power to be had going from 10.6-11.2 AFRs.....it will make it a bit smoother, but maybe 2-3 additional HP. 10.6 AFRs doesn't really bog down the motor.

 

If someone can host a 400K PDF document, I have converted the tuturial doc to a PDF (also reformatted for better printing).

l8r)

 

I acutally run leaner 11.2:1 on my custom baseline. After turning on SMART my AF fattens to 10.7:1 which is not a big deal but its definately trying to richen the mix. Though, with SMART, I see leaner AFR at partial throttle which is nice because it does tend to make the car respond faster than my baseline. I'm sure I could tune SMART to run leaner at WOT but I want a specific proceedure for doing so. I dont want smart fighting my custom baseline.

 

Shiv,

I am currently running a 2.0 liter with the following mods:
- HKS 280 camshafts
- supertech valve train
- Ross pistons (stock bore, stock compression)
- Crower rods
- no balance shaft

How do I establish the "noise floor" for my engine?
_Would simply highlighting the SMART timing table and looking at the "trace" work? So assuming that I have a solid baseline tune that doesn't knock on a dyno run, could I do another dyno run and just watch the trace? Or should I simply log the knock sensor activity separately and adjust the SMART timing from there?

When will we get a version of the SMART XMap that allows me to scale the maps to 9200 rpms? (assuming that I get my ECU to match that redline)

Could you comment (perhaps in the next revision of the tutorial) on how to tune for partial throttle situations. IMO, tuning at WOT is great, but tuning at partial throttle is probably more important for day-do-day driving, no?

l8r)

 

Probably, but I have a much more 'scientific' method for you. Rather than trying to extrapolate knock noise for ranges above 8500 RPM. Drive the car around with SMART off and a data collector connected. Get a LOT of data. I'm talking 100k samples. It sounds like a lot, but you can do it in less than 20 min. Take that data, get an average for the full RPM range. Then widen it one standard deviation up and down. There's your new noise band.

EDIT: a long term goal of mine is to automate all of this. Be able to drive the car around for a couple of days and have the software tell me "hey, your engine isn't very noisy. I can detect knock better than this." or "hey, this is really good fuel you've been using. Add a little more timing".


d

 

That's about right. But I have an even easier way. Drop your boost to 10psi and dump in some race gas. With this combination, you are sure to not have not. But then you can log your knock noise (either through Commslog) or through XMAP by simply selecting the entire SMART timing table graph and watching the highlighted box leave a trace. This is your new Zero line/Happy zone. Then, to adjust the default SMART timing table values to the new zero line, simply select one column at a time and hit "<" or ">" to move your zero line up or down. Chances are that with a built more (esp if it has no balance shafts), the zero line will be higher and you will have to tap ">" a few times in the higher RPM columns. Don't be surprised that the zero point at 8500 is somewhere around 70!

Shiv

 

Cool, thanks guys. I'll drop the boost to its lowest (WG spring by itself = 17-18psi in my case) and start logging as soon as my car is off the dyno at AMS.

Any thoughts on the partial throttle tuning?

l8r)

 

So I probably need to move the zero's backto where they were in my SMART fuel table? Do you have what you would interpret as an ideal graph, just so we know what we are aiming for? Thanks