How to tell if SMART wideband is calibrated?
How to tell if SMART wideband is calibrated?
So I did what the SMART instructions said on calibrating the wideband, I got the up to 6k rpm in 1st and then hit (not held down) the calibrate button while coasting down (without gas being applied). How can I tell if it worked? The red LED never did anything other than stay illuminated the whole time. I frankly can't tell a difference with the SMART installed, I really hope its because my wideband didn't get calibrated. Help!
First might be a little on the short side...why not do it in third so it has more time to pump in fresh air and calibrate itself.
The best way is to just do it buy removing the sensor and getting an honest fresh air read.
The best way is to just do it buy removing the sensor and getting an honest fresh air read.
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Agreed. Do it in 3rd or 4th. That way, you'll have plenty of time for it to calibrate. Or just do it in the morning before you start up your car. Just ignition on and wait to get the o2 sensor up to temp.
Shiv
Shiv
Originally Posted by shiv@vishnu
Or just do it in the morning before you start up your car. Just ignition on and wait to get the o2 sensor up to temp.

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So you just turn the ignition on, then hit the button and wait a few minutes?? Also where's a good place to ground? I just wrapped the bare wire around the glovebox latch.
Originally Posted by Zarathustra
So you just turn the ignition on, then hit the button and wait a few minutes??
Also where's a good place to ground? I just wrapped the bare wire around the glovebox latch.
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Originally Posted by EVOtagger
ok, so ignition ON,

wait roughly 10 min for sensor warmup, then calibrate...good to go?
EDIT: not to be an ***, but this is also explained in the LC-1 manual.

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Last edited by donour; Aug 23, 2005 at 09:04 AM. Reason: spelling
Originally Posted by EVOtagger
i havent received mine yet 
just trying to get all of the potential quirks worked out before it gets here (hopefully this week)

just trying to get all of the potential quirks worked out before it gets here (hopefully this week)
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/s...C-1_Manual.pdf
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Calibration
Ooops. I reved up in neutral to 6k and pushed the button. Guess I need to redo this. Do we need to hold the button down or just push it once? Sorry for the basic questions. Thanks,
Sigfrid
Sigfrid
Originally Posted by shiv@vishnu
Or just do it in the morning before you start up your car. Just ignition on and wait to get the o2 sensor up to temp.
http://wbo2.com/sw/cal.htm
Sensor must not be in an exhaust pipe as stale exhaust fumes can hang around for many hours and maybe days.
Originally Posted by ruzs
Ooops. I reved up in neutral to 6k and pushed the button. Guess I need to redo this. Do we need to hold the button down or just push it once? Sorry for the basic questions. Thanks,
Sigfrid
Sigfrid
The LC-1 has to be calibrated in free air. As per the manual, there are two ways to do the calibration with the sensor installed on the exhaust.
1) wait a long time (6+ hours) for the entire car to cool down and most of the exhaust gases to escape from the exhaust path. You can then calibrate because the exhaust pipe air is very similiar to the atmosphere.
2) Perform a coast down calibration. When the car is in gear but under no load, the engine acts as basically a big air pump. It brings in gobs of fresh air and pushes this air back out the exhaust mostly unmixed with fuel. To do this, simply get into gear (preferrably not first gear since it's too short), rev to 6000+ RPM, release the throttle, push the botton, wait until RPMS are back below 2k, then your done. This is probably vishnu's preferred method because it doesn't require you to wait some an entire day for your car to cool down. However, if you're doing this by yourself in an urban area, you might wreck.

I tried both, they didn't give me any noticably different readings.
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It isn't clear that the calibration takes any longer than the period that the LED is off (e.g. a second or so). Do you know for sure that it is longer than this?
An alternative that I expect will work is to disable the injectors (pick a method) and crank the engine to flush the exhaust system with clean air.
An alternative that I expect will work is to disable the injectors (pick a method) and crank the engine to flush the exhaust system with clean air.
Originally Posted by donour
Push it once. Wait 20-30 seconds.
The LC-1 has to be calibrated in free air. As per the manual, there are two ways to do the calibration with the sensor installed on the exhaust.
1) wait a long time (6+ hours) for the entire car to cool down and most of the exhaust gases to escape from the exhaust path. You can then calibrate because the exhaust pipe air is very similiar to the atmosphere.
2) Perform a coast down calibration. When the car is in gear but under no load, the engine acts as basically a big air pump. It brings in gobs of fresh air and pushes this air back out the exhaust mostly unmixed with fuel. To do this, simply get into gear (preferrably not first gear since it's too short), rev to 6000+ RPM, release the throttle, push the botton, wait until RPMS are back below 2k, then your done. This is probably vishnu's preferred method because it doesn't require you to wait some an entire day for your car to cool down. However, if you're doing this by yourself in an urban area, you might wreck.
I tried both, they didn't give me any noticably different readings.
d
The LC-1 has to be calibrated in free air. As per the manual, there are two ways to do the calibration with the sensor installed on the exhaust.
1) wait a long time (6+ hours) for the entire car to cool down and most of the exhaust gases to escape from the exhaust path. You can then calibrate because the exhaust pipe air is very similiar to the atmosphere.
2) Perform a coast down calibration. When the car is in gear but under no load, the engine acts as basically a big air pump. It brings in gobs of fresh air and pushes this air back out the exhaust mostly unmixed with fuel. To do this, simply get into gear (preferrably not first gear since it's too short), rev to 6000+ RPM, release the throttle, push the botton, wait until RPMS are back below 2k, then your done. This is probably vishnu's preferred method because it doesn't require you to wait some an entire day for your car to cool down. However, if you're doing this by yourself in an urban area, you might wreck.

I tried both, they didn't give me any noticably different readings.
d


