Okay heres the deal. I have the V390 package on my evo 8 from and I noticed that I should be runnin a 12.1@114. I went to the track last friday and this is what I was able to accomplish:

60ft:1.89
330ft:5.5
1/8et:8.66
1/8mph:78.58
1/4et:13.53
1/4mph100.10

As you can see I am nowhere near what I should be runnin. Im even running slower than the V300 which should be a 13.0. Any and all help would be greatly appreciated.

Jon

 

Their is definately something wrong with car, you should not be trapping 100mph, you might have boost leak - thats the first thing I would check. Do you have boost gauge? Do you have cams?

 

Did you get the mail-in FLASH or the FLASH & tune? If you just had the Mail-in FLASH I would dyno test your car and make sure you're putting out the numbers stated with that package. What was the weather outside?

 

Evo23IG: I havent checked for a boost leak. My boost gauge says im runnin 1.66 bar when i made the pass. (24psi?) As for cams, I have 272I/264E

xtremeIX: I had to resend my ecu to get the v390 flash. (dealer relashed it for a misfire code) As for the dyno theres only a 2wd dyno locally. I have to find time to travel to an awd dyno. weater was in the mid 80's I believe.

 

Houston dyno day in October... Lots of Vishnu cars and the "SHIV".

I would guess boost leak. What BOV do you have? I have a greddy type-s with single spring and it was leaking bad on the dyno. Had to screw it all the way down to get it to hold boost. But it made my idle suck. I will be adding second spring and preasure testing soon...


For reference on my stage 1+ pump gas (93), I ran 12.3-12.4's on a closed road, 400 treadwear street tires, spinning on the launch, measured by a g-tech rr. with 110-113 traps.

 

I would suggest the Forge RS DV if you don't have an aftermarket BOV. When u do a third gear pull at the end of the pull where is the boost at? Also what rpms were u shifting? One thing about your run, you can definately launch the car better and shift faster.

 

I've got the evo ix dv. I'll check the boost later on in the day. I try to shift around 6700. It definately feels like the car should be doin alot better than it is.

Cajun: Do you know the exact day in October?

 

Boost sounds a little too high.
You're also majorly short shifting at 6700. You need to shift it at around 7300. You're probably falling a little out of the power band on the 1-2 shifting so early.

I'd reduce the boost to 1.45 bar in case you're jumping onto the low octane map from too much boost, shift at 7300, and try again.

If that doesn't work, check all your IC and boost lines, becasue something is amiss.

 

I would turn down the boost if I had a boost controller. Is it safe to be shifting that high. I thought it would hit fuel cut.

 

alright I just pulled the air box off the car and there is a vacuum line that is ran into another line. the nipple that it is supposed to go on (im assuming it went there) is left open without a cap. I followed the line and its coming from the wastegate. could this affect the performance?

 

huh? ^^^ [edit] Oh, it sounds like a "flash" set up.


There are two lines that go to the boost solenoid. It is about the size of a pack of gum, mounted to the driver fender under the air box. You should have the boost pill removed from the boost line. It sounds like it is by your boost numbers. Ok, both sides of the solenoid should have lines attached if you run an Xede. There is a trick with bypassing if you have a flash with no Xede.

I am assuming you have never had a "tune" so you are speculating at your HP numbers. How are your cams set? -2 -2? Also, who installed them? Are they a tooth off? You wouldn't believe how many shops get the tooth off.

 

I agree with Cajun that you might be off a tooth. Being off one tooth could cost you lots of hp. My car being of a tooth cost me 40 hp until Shiv fixed it.

 

Cajun: the cams are set at -2/-2. All work was done by David from Vishnu and Zeus. I dont have a tune just a flash. I dont have anything to tune with. I didnt speculate my numbers because I really dont know.

not sure if its off a tooth or not I dont know how to check. I wasnt the one that installed them on the car.

 

With the flash I pretty sure the fuel cut was raised, but even though you can still shift at 7300 with no problem. You are not taking advangate of the cams if you are not shifting at the redline. Also do some pulls check ur boost, see how high it hits and how far it falls.

 

I disagree. My peak WHP was at 6400 RMP and peak TRQ was around 5000 RPM. So for my fastest run 1-2 2-3 3-4 shifts would be around 6500 RPM and hit the next gear right about peak TRQ. It is like short shifting. Running it to red-line would be when your power is falling off big time. After peak HP and on the down side of TRQ you rate of acceleration will be less than if you up shift and get back into the TRQ.

To check you gears...
Set your crank to TDC (top dead center) and you cam gears will line up with the notch in your valve cover if they were -0 -0. -2 -2 should be just slightly back from the notch. The belt and the tooth colored for TDC should be on TDC but the center of the gear and the cam will be -2 -2. If the colored TDC tooth on the gear is off one tooth on the belt... LOW POWER! It is about -7.5 or +7.5 per tooth. FYI you might have to roll the crank around one full revolution to hit cam TDC too. Crazy japs made it that way. LOL.