I just bought a stage 1 kit for my car. I have not installed the cams yet, sot the car has the sig exhaust and Exede. Also, I loaded the stage 0+ map.

The day after I installed my exhaust, I was driving to work and I decided to see what the car had under WOT. After I got out of first gear, I ended up gringding into second gear. I let of the gas for about a second and pressed the clutch in all the way. Second gear would still not go in. I finally was able to get second gear and proceeded to shift into third. Again, I was grinding my gears. I don't launch my car and I have never had this problem before while pushing the vehicle hard. I am running Redline tranny oil in my transmission and differentials.

Today, I tried to to see if the problem was me or the transmission, so I again went to redline in first gear and shifted into second to just be dissapointed by the grinding of my gears. Third gear did not grind, but I believe I hit fuel cut because the car just stalled for a brief second.

Sorry for the long post, but does any one have any ideas if I am doing something wrong, or is my car acting up to my new found power.

Gnulooks...

 

I had grinding into 2nd as you describe with the factory fill and MT90. I doubt it has anything to do with the Xede or new found power. Try some Pennzoil or GM Synchromesh in the tranny, I and others have found it to perform better than Redline MT90.

 

Darn Gnulooks,
You really just bummed me out. I don't see how it could be your new-found power, but I would definitely change out my tranny fluids if I were you and just put the stock fluid in or B&G SynchroShift. Let me know if I can do anything to help. When I drove your car your tranny felt notchier than mine but very good nontheless. If you have a real problem I would definitely pop your stock exhaust back on and take it to the dealer. If you want me to drive it just for a second opinion, let me know.

 

I second the BG Synchroshift recommendation, used it on my previous car and will be using it on my Evo. Redline makes great oil for the motor but their tranny oil kills synchros (or at least on hondas they do).

 

Learn how to shift better. That's really about it. At 15k miles I changed it with whatever the dealer uses and I think the fluid is fine.

 

Thanks guys, even though I have less than 500 miles on the Redline I think I will have to change it out. I want to go with the B&G, does anyone know where I can get it for a good price?

Thanks for the repleys,
Gnulooks

 

RRE sells it. Let's go tonight.

 

Looking at the specs GM, Pennzoil and BG are pretty much the same stuff. Autozone carries Pennzoil Synchromesh at $5/qt. if you're in a hurry or just want to try it out.

 

I have never experienced a true, loud grind, but my car was really notchy in the 1-2 shift and 2-3. Especially at high RPM's. So I bought the under hood shift bushings from the Lancer shop and it made the shifting 50% smoother and more direct. The rubber bushings are really soft and I can not believe Mitsu puts those in the car. I then drain the transmission a week later and put in some Pennzoil syncromesh and after about 500 miles with that stuff my shifting has become really smooth. There still is some notchy feel, but at least 100% better. I am very confident that changing the shifter bushings will cure the rest of the notchiness. Especially if it is the same rubber bushings that are under the hood.

 

I had the same problem a couple times, I would grind 2nd gear from a downshift from 3rd.

Personally I think it's the weak clutch in our cars that is not releasing/engaging properly. I have 12k miles on my car and I'm itching to change the clutch to an exedy.

Steve

 

I run the Redline MTL and it's like a hot knife throw butter when shifting. No Problems and to add it got rid of my 2nd gear fast shift grind.

Redline is GL4 and is fine for Brace syncros. It does not attack the Brace like a GL5 does.

The stock stuff is fine to but for road racing REDLINE IS THE SHIZMENT!!!

Eric

 

Adjust the clutch pedal rod so that it begins take-up about .25" into the pedal travel. I was having all sorts of shifting problems when Dirk from ACT suggested that I look into this. I found that I had about 1-1.25" of freeplay before the clutch pedal actually started to exert pressure to move the slave cylinder. After I adjusted the clutch rod so that the take-up happens earlier I do not have any problems any more. Basically you are allowing the pedal to move the slave cylinder farther so that the pressure plate completely disengages the clutch disk and there is no dragging.

 

That's good info I'm still on stock clutch I would not thing would screw that up.

But No body is perfect.

 

I have a very notchy tranny and I usually shortshift 2nd at about 6900 rpms. The closer I get to the rev-limiter the more likely I will miss my 1-2 shift. I also have a 4th gear grind at high rpms and I missed 4th completely my last run at the track. Took me two reclutches to get it into gear. Tranny has been looked at by many Mitsu techs and a transmission guru from Mitsu had my car for a couple of days to hopefully fix the problem and use my car as a test dummy to fix this tranny issue. After his testing he concluded that my tranny was normal. Basically I will have to live with high rpm misshifts. It sucks cause I lose a ton of boost with my super exaggerated granny shift into 4th gear.

 

I don't doubt Redline MTL shifts like butter and is rated correctly for our trannies. I still prefer a good non-synthetic oil (like BG synchroshift I) in the tranny only because I think synthetic is too slippery and can accelerate synchro wear. I think some friction is needed so the synchros don't have to work as hard. There are 2 different issues here though. 1 is that mitsu doesn't have strict tolerances building their transmissions so some owners will get good ones and some will get crappy ones. 2 is the fluild which people will swear by one brand over another based on their own experiences.