I know Richard has the best answers, but I'm posting to the forum so his knowledge can help us all.

OK, A year ago, I bought a used system from a guy in my car club, who has since moved away.

Now that I have an EVO, I'm installing it.

For the past 2 weeks, I've been just running it simply as an on/off with a pressure switch setup, & it worked, but it dumps hella-water as soon as boost comes on at 2500 rpm's, & continues the same spray through the rpm's, so it's not the best way to do it.. BUt, I've determined that the pump works fine.

Now, I've hooked up the MF2, to do 3d mapping.

I've got the potentiometer (SP?) dialed in for the map sensor, & the LED indicator comes on at about 8psi, so the map sensor is hooked up correctly & functioning.

The little LED's are lighting up correctly showing engine RPM's, so the tach signal is reading correctly. (& I was right.. With a 2 coil system, you hook into one coil & tell the MF2 that you have a 2 cylinder engine)

I've tested the water pressure switch on the manifold that controls water flow & pressure,& it works fine.

I've tested the solinoid, & it for sure clicks & lets water flow through.

I have the rpm pot's adjusted at like 1/4 turn at 2000 rpm's, 1/2 turn at 3000, 3/4 turn at 4000, & 5000, & full on at 6000 rpms.

Anyways, I currently have the presure line & water injector running under the edge of the hood, & tucked under the windshield wiper, to be able to observe the spray, & confirm it works while driving. I am running 14psi, up to 6000 rpm's.

No spray.. Any ideas? I'm not getting an error light on the MF2 at this point either. I guess I'll mess with the gain pot next, but it is adjusted to the factory suggested 12 turns.

 

Interesting.

Do the following with the car stationary and engine running.

Try putting all the PPM potentiometers to fully clockwise. Rev to 3000rpm and stay there. Take the blue wire out of the map sensor and connect it to the orange wire (+5V) to simulate full boost. It should spray.

Richard

 

ooo, good tip! Didn't even think of simulating full map. I was trying to figure out how to get boost, & check on things while it's stationary.

Thanks, will update.

 

When the system is injecting, the green led on the bottom right corner should flicker.

Richard

 

All is good now. THanks Richard, that test did result in spray.

That led me to testing a few more things, & this time I used a pressure pump, along with a big boost gage, coupled to the map sensor.. It wasn't comming on at 8 psi like I thought.. (The documentation says that at 3.3 volts from the map sensor, it would be approx 8 psi, but it was actually closer to 14psi or more, & I never quite got to that boost level, as I was testing at low boost)

So, with my mad scientist setup, I adjusted the pot till it would light the LED at 5 psi. Then, after adjusting the rpm pots, I could get it to either spray lightly at 2000 rpm's up to full blast at 5000 or so, OR, holding it at 3000 rpm's, I could increase the spray while increasing the pressure going to the map sensor. I'm assuming that it now does a combination of the two, while driving...

So I went for another drive with the injector wedged under the windshield wiper, & it sprays very lightly at low rpm's & low boost, but comes on strong when either go up. Just like it's supposed to! (Haha, I ALMOST turned on the windshield wiper after it sprayed all over the windshield.. That would have sucked, sending an injector flying across the street..)

SO, thanks again for the inputs.. Now I gotta clean up the install, & finalise the locations of some of the stuff.. There's wire spagetti around the air-box right now.

 

This is indeed good news.

There is another useful adjustment other than:
RPM x MAP =%PWM (yes, the MF2 actually performs multiplications).

You can alter the inertial pulse width and a failsafe output (Green wire) to energise a relay to drop boost in the event of:
- Water pressure loss
- Cut pipe
- Block jet
- fail solenoid valve
- jammed valve
- In-balance detection of of True PWM against Injected amount.

Don't forget to re-anodise the manifold block - the system is quite old.

 

Yes, I'm running 100% water in the system right now.. I don't have time to get the manifold re-annodized by Saturday's tune day with Dynoflash, but will get it done the week after.

If I run 75% meth for the 2 hours we're tuning, & then flush the system back out with water again, would there be any damage done?

 

I suggest you use the biggest jet you got as methanol doesn;t cool as much as water. I think the manifold block will survive.