Well, the interesting thing here is, even if the box goes bad, that means there will be a problem with the flow, i.e. none or maybe too much or even irradic. Any of these problems will be seen by the flow sensor and immediately cut it down to wastegate, so yeah, it truly is VIRTUALLY foolproof. But of course, I also realize the DDS-3 always has a chance of goin out as well...BUT...what if water wasn't wet? Or the sky not blue? I try not to "what if" TOO much...lol...

 

aresix6,

I have just managed to cut and paste your wonderful write-up of the DDS3 install onto the aquamist site, no less than 107 images+ text!!!

It must have taken you hours to organize the contents in the first instant.

Again, a big thank you.

Richard

 

LOL, and you might wonder why it took me so long to actually get it up here...lol

 

Hey Richard...jus one quick note I forgot to mention in the write up that's more of a contructive criticism/possible product improvement. On the actual DDS3 monitor that fits in 52mm pods, I kind of felt it would be slightly more advantageous if there was a way to unplug the wires from the back, you know, like a plug in behind the gauge. In order to do any future maintenance or to take it out or if it ever needs to be removed, it has to be completely unwired from the brainbox, rerouted back thru the center-console/dash area and pulled out. I guess that's more of a "gee-whiz, I'm lazy" thing, but just food for thought. Not sure how feasible or cost effective that would be though for Aquamist.

 

Aresix6,

Thanks for your comment and improvement on the construction of the DDS3 gauge.

I agree with you entirely. On the next version, we will put a connector on the back of the gauge. Meanwhile you can always allow extra cable length behind the cable so it can be taken out for inspection. A connector will make total detachment very simple.

I always welcome comments regarding our products, bad or good.

Richard

 

can just make your own connectors. cut the wires behind the gauge (with some distance between the gauge and the cut and not right up against the gauge!) and use male/female spades to put the connection back together. then you can undo them as many times as you need.

 

WOW, glad to see the kit worked out the way it did. I'm very impressed with such ingenuity

 

How could this setup be done on a car with a manual boost controler? Could i still power the stock unit to kill the boost? Or are you using the exde to do it?

 

Yes, the DDS3 can drive a solenoid valve to drop the boost down to wategate pressure. Slowcar has done this on his evo sometime ago, I wonder he can chime in and help to identify the valve used.

Here is the basic DDS3 wiring diagram to achieve this (ignore the aqumist pump set up):



If you to follow through the entire thread on how it works, please use the following link:
http://www.aquamist.co.uk/phpBB2/vie...+valve&start=0

You may need to register first

Richard

 

i used a 3/2 NO MAC 36 series solenoid valve for the above

http://www.macvalves.com/Catalogs/NT/36.pdf

very fast reaction time. Turbosmart use MAC solenoids valves in their EBC

 

that's good to see.. nice work and good write up.

 

damn thats an awesome setup there. Will have to consider running something similar in the near future. Great job!

 

bump

 

question. is the dds3 flow gauge needed or can this be installed without the gauge?

 

The DDS3 gauge, it's accompanying flow sensor, and junction box must be used all together in order for all the features to function properly. BTW why would you want to not use the flow gauge?

aresix6, I re-read your intallation and have to give you many props once again. I overlooked the part that you used the Xede and the factory boost control solenoid like I did a while back. Clever minds think alike .