Aquamist HSF-5 Phase I Complete:
#17
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Phase II now complete:
What better thing is there to do than to work on your car on a rainy day?
Spent some more time on the car and ran just about all the wiring
I drilled a small hole through the cardboard and ran the wiring straight through for a clean look in the trunk:
Grounded the pump on the V-brace:
I ABSOLUTELY love this wiring harness. I thought I was going to have to strip the wires and put them onto the relay manually but nope...you just plug the relay and the float valve wire into the harness. Thats it. A power wire and a group of wires wrapped in black plastic run along the door sills towards the front of the car to the battery and the "brain" :
I hid most of the nylon delivery hose and power wires so it doesn't look much different in the engine bay. Stealth :
The high speed valve and flow sensor mounted next to eachother. I drilled tiny holes and screwed the HSV into the firewall with the provided mounting tabs:
The final product in the trunk using nicks design:
I just have to run the wire for the high speed valve to the "brain", order my mac valve for the boost cut failsafe, run a few wires to my AEM EMS for map switching and tap my UICP for the jets and I'm pretty much done!!
Looks like I better set up an appointment for a dyno tune soon
Spent some more time on the car and ran just about all the wiring
I drilled a small hole through the cardboard and ran the wiring straight through for a clean look in the trunk:
Grounded the pump on the V-brace:
I ABSOLUTELY love this wiring harness. I thought I was going to have to strip the wires and put them onto the relay manually but nope...you just plug the relay and the float valve wire into the harness. Thats it. A power wire and a group of wires wrapped in black plastic run along the door sills towards the front of the car to the battery and the "brain" :
I hid most of the nylon delivery hose and power wires so it doesn't look much different in the engine bay. Stealth :
The high speed valve and flow sensor mounted next to eachother. I drilled tiny holes and screwed the HSV into the firewall with the provided mounting tabs:
The final product in the trunk using nicks design:
I just have to run the wire for the high speed valve to the "brain", order my mac valve for the boost cut failsafe, run a few wires to my AEM EMS for map switching and tap my UICP for the jets and I'm pretty much done!!
Looks like I better set up an appointment for a dyno tune soon
#19
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What better thing is there to do than to work on your car on a rainy day?
Spent some more time on the car and ran just about all the wiring
I drilled a small hole through the cardboard and ran the wiring straight through for a clean look in the trunk:
Grounded the pump on the V-brace:
I ABSOLUTELY love this wiring harness. I thought I was going to have to strip the wires and put them onto the relay manually but nope...you just plug the relay and the float valve wire into the harness. Thats it. A power wire and a group of wires wrapped in black plastic run along the door sills towards the front of the car to the battery and the "brain" :
I hid most of the nylon delivery hose and power wires so it doesn't look much different in the engine bay. Stealth :
The high speed valve and flow sensor mounted next to eachother. I drilled tiny holes and screwed the HSV into the firewall with the provided mounting tabs:
The final product in the trunk using nicks design:
I just have to run the wire for the high speed valve to the "brain", order my mac valve for the boost cut failsafe, run a few wires to my AEM EMS for map switching and tap my UICP for the jets and I'm pretty much done!!
Looks like I better set up an appointment for a dyno tune soon
Spent some more time on the car and ran just about all the wiring
I drilled a small hole through the cardboard and ran the wiring straight through for a clean look in the trunk:
Grounded the pump on the V-brace:
I ABSOLUTELY love this wiring harness. I thought I was going to have to strip the wires and put them onto the relay manually but nope...you just plug the relay and the float valve wire into the harness. Thats it. A power wire and a group of wires wrapped in black plastic run along the door sills towards the front of the car to the battery and the "brain" :
I hid most of the nylon delivery hose and power wires so it doesn't look much different in the engine bay. Stealth :
The high speed valve and flow sensor mounted next to eachother. I drilled tiny holes and screwed the HSV into the firewall with the provided mounting tabs:
The final product in the trunk using nicks design:
I just have to run the wire for the high speed valve to the "brain", order my mac valve for the boost cut failsafe, run a few wires to my AEM EMS for map switching and tap my UICP for the jets and I'm pretty much done!!
Looks like I better set up an appointment for a dyno tune soon
#21
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Binh,
I have one suggest to add to this already a very nice installartion. If you can use the grounding bolts supplied withthe kit, it will stop the present grounding tag working loose.
I have one suggest to add to this already a very nice installartion. If you can use the grounding bolts supplied withthe kit, it will stop the present grounding tag working loose.
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Nice install binh, its good to see that the timing of things worked out pretty good. The images are also helpful for others when they look for ideas or clarification in order to install a part.
Instead of payment for the fittings how about a swap, hold onto the tap and drill bit, when you see another user looking or otherwise inquiring about these offer to send the bit and tap to them. What this does is make it a little easier for everyone since for the most part you might not use these again.
Richard offers great advice on the ground and I hope others see this. Ground wires and good solid grounding points/locations are sometimes over looked because it does not seem that critical. But grounds are the other part of the circuit and need the same attention that a wire that carries a signal or voltage.
Instead of payment for the fittings how about a swap, hold onto the tap and drill bit, when you see another user looking or otherwise inquiring about these offer to send the bit and tap to them. What this does is make it a little easier for everyone since for the most part you might not use these again.
Richard offers great advice on the ground and I hope others see this. Ground wires and good solid grounding points/locations are sometimes over looked because it does not seem that critical. But grounds are the other part of the circuit and need the same attention that a wire that carries a signal or voltage.
#23
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After I got everything bolted up I realized that I couldn't get the grounding bolt on. I would have had to undo everything to put the grounding bolt on. DOH!
I took the lock washer on there and made sure it was on nice and tight with some locktite. It felt very secure. Hopefully it'll stay put.
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andddd the results are in...
I went to turbotrix today to get the Aquamist kit buttoned up with some wiring, the aem boost solenoid installed, and finally on the dyno.
I have some good news and potentially bad news...
Heres my dyno before the aquamist at 23psi:
Here it is after with the .9mm and 1.0mm nozzles without restrictor pills at 30psi:
Now on to the bad news. Mark was running the car pretty hard on the dyno repeatedly to tune my base map, the aem boost solenoid, and then my car on the meth and 30psi. He let the car sit awhile and cool between each session.
On the final run the coolant reservoir started to overflow. I'm not sure if it was from the repeated runs or from the head lifting...
I bought some ARP's and I'm going to install them tomorrow.
The car drove home completely fine on the boost turned down to 24 psi. No smoke. No hesitation. Nothing.
It made 386whp or so on 24 psi.
I'll install the ARPs tomorrow and turn the boost up to 29 or so and see what happens.
All in all the car is a BEAST.
I have some good news and potentially bad news...
Heres my dyno before the aquamist at 23psi:
Here it is after with the .9mm and 1.0mm nozzles without restrictor pills at 30psi:
Now on to the bad news. Mark was running the car pretty hard on the dyno repeatedly to tune my base map, the aem boost solenoid, and then my car on the meth and 30psi. He let the car sit awhile and cool between each session.
On the final run the coolant reservoir started to overflow. I'm not sure if it was from the repeated runs or from the head lifting...
I bought some ARP's and I'm going to install them tomorrow.
The car drove home completely fine on the boost turned down to 24 psi. No smoke. No hesitation. Nothing.
It made 386whp or so on 24 psi.
I'll install the ARPs tomorrow and turn the boost up to 29 or so and see what happens.
All in all the car is a BEAST.