Aquamist Install Question
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From: Bergen County
Aquamist Install Question
On the HFS-1 there is the flow sensor and another solenoid with 3 wires going into it. I looked in the install quide and it wasn't to clear. Can someone explain to me what wires go into it. I believe it's 3 in and 2 out what wires go where? thanks
IMO get the manual in pdf thats been linked in the GB thread and when open in Adobe or another reader, find and image of the wiring diagram and increase/zoom in on the the junction box or the component in question and trace the wires back.
Also I have found that its nice to print the wiring diagram for install purposes from the pdf manual to a nice color printer.........this makes things nice when under the dash or under the hood when doing wiring work.
The Internet down here is god awful slow, otherwise I would link the pdf for you.
When looking at the junction box such as in the image above, the left side pins are 1 thru 12, on the right they are numbered 13 thru 25...........starting top to bottom on both sides.
Also I have found that its nice to print the wiring diagram for install purposes from the pdf manual to a nice color printer.........this makes things nice when under the dash or under the hood when doing wiring work.
The Internet down here is god awful slow, otherwise I would link the pdf for you.
When looking at the junction box such as in the image above, the left side pins are 1 thru 12, on the right they are numbered 13 thru 25...........starting top to bottom on both sides.
Better late than never.
The yellow and green wire goes to the water level sensor. It is pre-terminated with plugs abd socket connectors - it is plug and play.
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Richard,
I hope you can spend some time to answer a few naive question of mine.
#1) This is for wires from #11 and #12. If using an aftermarket boost controller (Blitz SBC i-D III) Do I cut and splice them into the boost controller control box's ground cable? The BC is plug and play, and have a harness that comes out of the control box and connects to another harness from the solenoid valve unit. That harness has a bunch of un-specified wiring within it.
#2) Upon inspection of my kit, the quick release tube receiver on 806-234 (6mm end) seems to be damaged. There is no tension when I pull the orange ring back and looking in it, I do not see any "teeth" retracting when I do so. As such, upon inserting the 6mm nylon tube, it stays in and pulls out only my its own friction. Whats the fastest way I can have it replaced?
#3) Is there a wiring diagram that pertains to cars with standalone EMS and EBC for those of us not so electronically savvy?
Thank you for your time.
I hope you can spend some time to answer a few naive question of mine.
#1) This is for wires from #11 and #12. If using an aftermarket boost controller (Blitz SBC i-D III) Do I cut and splice them into the boost controller control box's ground cable? The BC is plug and play, and have a harness that comes out of the control box and connects to another harness from the solenoid valve unit. That harness has a bunch of un-specified wiring within it.
#2) Upon inspection of my kit, the quick release tube receiver on 806-234 (6mm end) seems to be damaged. There is no tension when I pull the orange ring back and looking in it, I do not see any "teeth" retracting when I do so. As such, upon inserting the 6mm nylon tube, it stays in and pulls out only my its own friction. Whats the fastest way I can have it replaced?
#3) Is there a wiring diagram that pertains to cars with standalone EMS and EBC for those of us not so electronically savvy?
Thank you for your time.
My reply in Green
Originally Posted by BlueSi;
Richard,
I hope you can spend some time to answer a few naive question of mine.
#1) This is for wires from #11 and #12. If using an aftermarket boost controller (Blitz SBC i-D III) Do I cut and splice them into the boost controller control box's ground cable? The BC is plug and play, and have a harness that comes out of the control box and connects to another harness from the solenoid valve unit. That harness has a bunch of un-specified wiring within it.
Is it possible for you to send me a user manual. Now many wires are there on the unspecified harness?
#2) Upon inspection of my kit, the quick release tube receiver on 806-234 (6mm end) seems to be damaged. There is no tension when I pull the orange ring back and looking in it, I do not see any "teeth" retracting when I do so. As such, upon inserting the 6mm nylon tube, it stays in and pulls out only my its own friction. Whats the fastest way I can have it replaced?
Please pm me you address, I get a replacement ship to you. The orange collar does need to pop out. Please try it again and push the 6mm hose right in.
#3) Is there a wiring diagram that pertains to cars with standalone EMS and EBC for those of us not so electronically savvy?
If you have a pin-out diagram of the EMS and EBC, I am happy to make up a specific wiring diagram for you or anyone else.
Thank you for your time.
I hope you can spend some time to answer a few naive question of mine.
#1) This is for wires from #11 and #12. If using an aftermarket boost controller (Blitz SBC i-D III) Do I cut and splice them into the boost controller control box's ground cable? The BC is plug and play, and have a harness that comes out of the control box and connects to another harness from the solenoid valve unit. That harness has a bunch of un-specified wiring within it.
Is it possible for you to send me a user manual. Now many wires are there on the unspecified harness?
#2) Upon inspection of my kit, the quick release tube receiver on 806-234 (6mm end) seems to be damaged. There is no tension when I pull the orange ring back and looking in it, I do not see any "teeth" retracting when I do so. As such, upon inserting the 6mm nylon tube, it stays in and pulls out only my its own friction. Whats the fastest way I can have it replaced?
Please pm me you address, I get a replacement ship to you. The orange collar does need to pop out. Please try it again and push the 6mm hose right in.
#3) Is there a wiring diagram that pertains to cars with standalone EMS and EBC for those of us not so electronically savvy?
If you have a pin-out diagram of the EMS and EBC, I am happy to make up a specific wiring diagram for you or anyone else.
Thank you for your time.
Rich,
Thanks for your reply. I've emailed you the documents you've requested for.
Another question. Where do you recommend installing the 2 jets? Distance from throttle body? Orientation?
If they have been addressed somewhere else or in another forum, I apologies.
Thank you.
Thanks for your reply. I've emailed you the documents you've requested for.
Another question. Where do you recommend installing the 2 jets? Distance from throttle body? Orientation?
If they have been addressed somewhere else or in another forum, I apologies.
Thank you.
BlueSi, I'm in the final stages of an HFS-5 install now and I also have a Blitz sbc-id3 EBC. As far as I can see, the harness to the dual solenoid has 3 wires -- blue, purple and white. I suspect the white wire is the common wire, but I'm going to try each one until I find which one disables the solenoid. I wouldn't recommend interrupting the ground connection for the control box because then the whole EBC will power down. It would work I suppose, but that would just seem to be a somewhat violent way to cut boost.
Last edited by EVO8LTW; Aug 31, 2007 at 04:44 PM.
One of the three wire is the +12V supply common to the two solenoid coils. Th other two go to the "switch to ground" of the solenoid coils.
If you unplug the three pin connector form the controller first, measure the pin on the controller socket until you see a 12V.
This pin is one to cut to drop boost - I think the white-wired output is that pin.
If you unplug the three pin connector form the controller first, measure the pin on the controller socket until you see a 12V.
This pin is one to cut to drop boost - I think the white-wired output is that pin.
One of the three wire is the +12V supply common to the two solenoid coils. Th other two go to the "switch to ground" of the solenoid coils.
If you unplug the three pin connector form the controller first, measure the pin on the controller socket until you see a 12V.
This pin is one to cut to drop boost - I think the white-wired output is that pin.
If you unplug the three pin connector form the controller first, measure the pin on the controller socket until you see a 12V.
This pin is one to cut to drop boost - I think the white-wired output is that pin.
He told me he'll call the R&D department in Japan on Monday or Tuesday to clarify and get back to me. In the mean time, can someone use a multimeter to confirm the way Rich suggest? I don't have the unit with me (in shop 3h away).
As soon as I get confirmation, I'll post here too
If you have a multimeter, I can call you today just to clear up the mystery.
It is very rare to have an electronic switching the positive supply. Almost 99% of the system switches to ground after activation.
It is very rare to have an electronic switching the positive supply. Almost 99% of the system switches to ground after activation.






